System Keeps Killing Amps! HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[340dustya 10+ year member]

my car is a 73 duster and i have 2 3000 w power acoustik mofo 12's. i have a 2 alternators. one for subs and one for the rest of my electronics. it is 110 amps and i have it wire to a second battery. i had a 4000 w mono-block amp hood up to them and they slammed. they worked perfectly fine for a couple months until the amp kept shutting off. it blew my in line fuse every once and a while but never the amps fuse. if i turned my car off and back on again it would start playing fine again for about 5 minutes and shut off again. one day it never came back on. i got a new different brand 2 channel 4000 w amp and it was working good. about 2 days after i installed it it blew a fuse on the amp. i replaced it and it worked fine again and then the amp shut off just like the old one. no fuse blown. the protect mode light didnt come on nor did the power light like the old amp. i took off the power wire and tested it and there was a current running through it so that wasnt the problem. both amps seemed to shut off when the car was stationary, or the volume was up but mostly did it when i changed song on my cd or i pod. dont know what that means. i dont know what to do please help? i also have a cutoff switch wired on the remote wire next to my drivers seat that i turn off when i shut my car off. idk if that could be the problem?

Click to read more...

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

have you thought about using a dmm to see if your voltage is dropping, it usually takes more than a small alt and a single batt to run 4k, that is most likely your problem

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

i was about to do that but i thought if there's enough power coming out of that one battery to blow my inline fuse and the ones on the amp about twice a week (depending on how much i listen to it) than there is enough power. don't know if that matters? i think its my remote wire, could it be that it is wired to the fuse box and not the rem. wire coming off the radio. p.s. my fuse box is original which means its from 1973

 

[Phoenix Risen 10+ year member]

how exactly is your stuff set up, amp, sub, hu, and wiring (including ohms that they are wired at)

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

i have a one wire alternator that is wired back to the battery with 0g. battery is grounded in trunk. power wire comes off batter with an 80 amp in line fuse and goes to the amp. the subs 2 ohm dvc and are bridged at 2 ohms so they can get the full 4000 watts from the 2 ohm stable amp. the amp has 2 50 amp fuses on it and is grounded with a 1 ft 0g wire. remote wire comes out of the fuze box and goes to the cut off switch and then goes back to the amp. and then the rca cables are hooked up.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

First off your fuse rating on you power wire should match the rating on the amp or else its not getting the full amout of current needed. Also if the amp only has two 50amp fuses its not pushing 4k and its probably not stable at two ohm bridged. Try it unbridged and change out that fuse to a 100amp on the inline

then check your remote though I don't think that's the problem it doesn't hurt to check

 

[Stryker 10+ year member]

well first off that amp is not 4k with only 2-50 amp fuses on board.....more like 1500 (14.4x100)volts x amperage of fuses. secondly your fuse off your battery is waaay to small you should have a ANL 150amp or 200amp fuse inline close to your battery. What kind of HU do you have? your remote wire should come directly from it and then to your amps end of story get rid of that and wire the HU's remote to your amps directly and your electronics will turn off with the car automatically. Why do you have a switch that you turn off and on as this is wacky,unless of course the HU is real old or something I'm not reading in your original post. hope this helps a little bit.

 

[Stryker 10+ year member]

^^^^^ lol beat to the punch

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

well my car is a 1973 duster so it is extremely old. when i wired it to the remote wire on the hu they stayed on when i turned the car off thats why i opted with the fuse box. my old amp was a true 4000 w. it had 4 50 amp fuses but when that broke it threw me out of alot of money so i had to get this other (4000 w) amp because i was on a budget. the reason i put an 80 amp in line fuse in was because it kept blowing the fuses on my amp every 5 minutes.

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

should i still get a bigger in line fuse and just see what happens? also i think i am going to buy a new hu today to see if that helps. my old one isnt that nice anyways

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Most real 4KW amps will require a bit more than a single battery to function reliably. If your voltage is dropping too far below 12V when you're pounding on it you're putting your amp in big danger. Also cheaping out on amps is a good way to get equipment that will blow up often and perform poorly.

 

[Bobby322 10+ year member]

nice car...I still have one, it was my first car. I had a pair of 12s ported in the trunk. Talk about a rattle machine lol. Get better quality amps, 1/0 wire, and bigger fuses.

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

i just got a job so i thought i would just buy this cheapie amp until i had money to go get a real amp again like my old one. i wasnt really discappointed in how it sounded though. i thought since it was probly not pushing out anything close to a true 4k than i would be fine with only one battery at the time. and i would add another when i got my better amp. this obviously didnt work though.

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

@bobby32. oh yea i love my car. especially when your still in highs school not one other kid could come close to my car. but the exhaust is sooooooo loud i had to put a system this loud in it so i could hear it clearly. hahah it breaks some sheet metal occasionally in the trunk though. at least thats an easy fix.

 

[340dustya 10+ year member]

okay. i figured i would unbridge it in case the amp wasnt actually 2 ohm stable bridged. but then i giggled the power wire where it enters the terminal on the amp and it started playing. so i taped the wire in the position it was where it would still play. idk how that is because it is 0ga wire and it had a good connection with the terminal. it works fine now but isnt as loud. idk if i should leave it unbridged or put it back so i can get that gut wrenching bass back? also is there any way to wire two 2ohm dvc subs to 4ohm so i can bridge it safely?