Sundown U 15 facing up or forward?

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

friend has big truck with fu 1250 15 sub forward port up and it has bad cabin cancellation (a 10 in right box would be louder at least in his case) did same with 2-12" subs and port front.. like jeff said i'd say try port side and yeah the x is made for lows, i let my sub play up to 100hz.. so maybe side ported box with diff sub even 1 15 as long as box is big enough.. be great if u had friend with side port box let u try it in your truck

Get the fawk outta here. You can't seem to buy wiring right what makes you think your a Sundown expert now??

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That’s what I’m saying.. I’ve heard a lot of x and zv4 installs that just sound like shlt and people blame it on the subwoofers. Nope it’s the install/enclosure

megarolls will slam the lows along with the low lows and get loud AF but no way in hell will it play upper frequencies anywhere as loud as lower frequencies and i'm not talking about 40-50hz. There's literally no blend to midbass with megarolls unless you have midbass that can play well into the 50hz range which is rare for any basshead that has no clue on how to do doors. Again we are talking about megarolls, not your standard surrounds.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That’s what I’m saying.. I’ve heard a lot of x and zv4 installs that just sound like shlt and people blame it on the subwoofers. Nope it’s the install/enclosure

megarolls will slam the lows along with the low lows and get loud AF but no way in hell will it play upper frequencies anywhere as loud as lower frequencies and i'm not talking about 40-50hz. There's literally no blend to midbass with megarolls unless you have midbass that can play well into the 50hz range which is rare for any basshead that has no clue on how to do doors. Again we are talking about megarolls, not your standard surrounds.

My X 15's will play up to 50Hz...then they start to fade off afterwords. It's basically how their tuned in an enclosure. Since mine are tuned to 30Hz, I'll lose a little upper output but gain more on the loooow end.
People say they don't play upper freq is somewhat not true. Unless you wanna play 90Hz on songs which I Don't understand why....

Agreeing with other people on here. The X series has been a proven performer. Get a custom box built or have one built. They're not made for prefab boxes.

it should slowly roll off to 70 or 80 hz while having proper amounts of output close in DBs with the rest of the lower spectrum, not a straight up 15 db drop in output. They still play the upper frequencies but again -6 db drop and roll offs are understandable but those megarolls are literally falling off a cliff in comparison with how loud your 15-49hz is which leads to a massive gap in the sound spectrum . Most are okay with that but literally annoys the fk out of me that they have a gap in that music when the rest of their setup is loud as fk.

 

[shredder2]

48" X 12" X 13" tall

And you got a 2x3 port on that monster?... false floor it and start over. I can see port area a little off due to space limitations or using a round, but that size port on that big box is inexcusable.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

48" X 12" X 13" tall

look at your port area per foot. That sh*t should be at least 14 + you have 4... I'm just guessing on the length because it doesnt take much to get a low tuning. Dude John fked you over hard. That sh*t is as bad as a prefab.

This is if we account for specific grooves, bracing and other stuff to make it smaller to actually achieve 1.5 cubic feet assuming he knows what he was doing and you still only have 8 port per foot. thats a definite no, subs cant breathe, you are facing compression, literally only taping into 25% of your sub's capabilities.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

I reached out to builder, I explained there might be a flaw in build and if we can work something out once he gets me specs. I'm a fairly understanding person and willing to give some cash for a rebuild as time is money and I did pay in full (so not letting him take the full blame).

With that said, if I can work something out on a rebuild, I'll try this little x10 again. Otherwise my mind is off to the races and looking for something else to bump with.

Doubt it but since I don't know to much on audio, could a poorly built box cause a volt drop? I'm still scratching my head on why I'm getting a volt drop if I've been told all my stuff pre sub is good. In the pic I even drilled through my bed to ground @chasis.

Btw, I moved amp in that location because tomorrow I'm installing 2nd battery. Basically preinstall mode and moving things temporarily. I'm going to try and place both amps and battery behind back seats (yes I cut out bench and left back rest so visually the truck looks normal lol).

 

[West1 10+ year member]

look at your port area per foot. That sh*t should be at least 14 + you have 4... I'm just guessing on the length because it doesnt take much to get a low tuning. Dude John fked you over hard. That sh*t is as bad as a prefab.

This is if we account for specific grooves, bracing and other stuff to make it smaller to actually achieve 1.5 cubic feet assuming he knows what he was doing and you still only have 8 port per foot. thats a definite no, subs cant breathe, you are facing compression, literally only taping into 25% of your sub's capabilities.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll defiantly show the builder.

I just want to get it right if it's built wrong. I can understand a number incorrectly placed as I deal with long numbers daily as a machinist. If he does not meet me half way to get this right, then yes, I got screwed.

I have faith we can work it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I reached out to builder, I explained there might be a flaw in build and if we can work something out once he gets me specs. I'm a fairly understanding person and willing to give some cash for a rebuild as time is money and I did pay in full (so not letting him take the full blame).
With that said, if I can work something out on a rebuild, I'll try this little x10 again. Otherwise my mind is off to the races and looking for something else to bump with.

Doubt it but since I don't know to much on audio, could a poorly built box cause a volt drop? I'm still scratching my head on why I'm getting a volt drop if I've been told all my stuff pre sub is good. In the pic I even drilled through my bed to ground @chasis.

Btw, I moved amp in that location because tomorrow I'm installing 2nd battery. Basically preinstall mode and moving things temporarily. I'm going to try and place both amps and battery behind back seats (yes I cut out bench and left back rest so visually the truck looks normal lol).

big 3 upgrade along with maybe a dedicated ground run, run wire through that point you drilled and run underneath the car, add a grommet.

Yes it can cause voltage drop depending on the rise at certain frequencies where you arent satisfied with the output and try to bump it up to compensate when in actuality you are clipping it. Some poorly made boxes have massive voltage drops below box tuning and some tuned really low can easily be pushed into clipping when playing a much higher note from what i've seen. You wont know specifically unless you do lots of clamp tests.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll defiantly show the builder.I just want to get it right if it's built wrong. I can understand a number incorrectly placed as I deal with long numbers daily as a machinist. If he does not meet me half way to get this right, then yes, I got screwed.

I have faith we can work it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Just For his information, we dont really go by the port per foot rule, its just a general guideline for noobies to get a feel for what might be needed. On a sub modeling program like winisd, your rear air velocity values are through the roof. I'm surprised you dont have port noise to be honest. Could very well be at the point where its just a leaky sealed box where air cant even escape properly.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

big 3 upgrade along with maybe a dedicated ground run, run wire through that point you drilled and run underneath the car, add a grommet.
Yes it can cause voltage drop depending on the rise at certain frequencies where you arent satisfied with the output and try to bump it up to compensate when in actuality you are clipping it. Some poorly made boxes have massive voltage drops below box tuning and some tuned really low can easily be pushed into clipping when playing a much higher note from what i've seen. You wont know specifically unless you do lots of clamp tests.

Big 3 is already done with 0ga, with the exception of ground bat to Alt (maybe bat neg to engine block, don't remember). Frontiers have a volt sensor or something like that and the biggest wire I could squeeze was 1ga with some Vaseline.

When you say dedicated ground run, you mean run bat#1 negative to amp negatives?

Monday my sky audio copper terminals should arrive for dual mono amp ground/power. Not sure if that makes a difference for your original suggestion.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Big 3 is already done with 0ga, with the exception of ground bat to Alt (maybe bat neg to engine block, don't remember). Frontiers have a volt sensor or something like that and the biggest wire I could squeeze was 1ga with some Vaseline.
When you say dedicated ground run, you mean run bat#1 negative to amp negatives?

Monday my sky audio copper terminals should arrive for dual mono amp ground/power. Not sure if that makes a difference for your original suggestion.

yes a bat negative to 2nd batt negative assuming you are adding a 2nd batt. Reason for a dedicated ground is because some cars have a unibody design or some other weird sh*t that prevents it from having a good ground if you just do a chassis ground.

That voltage sensor could be like my sienna where it limits idle output and overall voltages just to save fuel. Might need an external regulator if thats actually the case.

Dual 1/0 inputs would help a miniscule amount. Not as much as a dedicated ground and 2nd battery does though. A ground from your front batt would be like a direct ground to the alt since you did the big 3.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

yes a bat negative to 2nd batt negative assuming you are adding a 2nd batt. Reason for a dedicated ground is because some cars have a unibody design or some other weird sh*t that prevents it from having a good ground if you just do a chassis ground.
That voltage sensor could be like my sienna where it limits idle output and overall voltages just to save fuel. Might need an external regulator if thats actually the case.

Dual 1/0 inputs would help a miniscule amount. Not as much as a dedicated ground and 2nd battery does though. A ground from your front batt would be like a direct ground to the alt since you did the big 3.

Done deal, I'll run a 0ga from bat#1 To bat#2. I was planning to ground at the closest wall in cab after I sand the paint off (or where a seatbelt is bolted) but if running a 16' ground to the hood is better, I have about 20' of 0ga left.

I'll look into the sensor. If it is indeed to limit voltage output, what kind of external regulator am I looking for and where exactly would I place It?

As for the dual 1/0, I plan to install 2nd bat (Duracell g31) and off of the battery run two 0ga positives to the sub amp (sky high audio input). I also purchased the knukonceptz triple 0ga battery terminals for positive and negative (I seen reviews after purchase so I hope I can install correctly!). On bat#2, I'll run one ground to bat#1 negative AND ground in cab or just the run to first battery? Should I also ground sub amp to bat#1 or leave as is to chasis?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Done deal, I'll run a 0ga from bat#1 To bat#2. I was planning to ground at the closest wall in cab after I sand the paint off (or where a seatbelt is bolted) but if running a 16' ground to the hood is better, I have about 20' of 0ga left.
I'll look into the sensor. If it is indeed to limit voltage output, what kind of external regulator am I looking for and where exactly would I place It?

As for the dual 1/0, I plan to install 2nd bat (Duracell g31) and off of the battery run two 0ga positives to the sub amp (sky high audio input). I also purchased the knukonceptz triple 0ga battery terminals for positive and negative (I seen reviews after purchase so I hope I can install correctly!). On bat#2, I'll run one ground to bat#1 negative AND ground in cab or just the run to first battery? Should I also ground sub amp to bat#1 or leave as is to chasis?

here's your power chart

alt pos and neg > 1st battery > pos and neg run to > 2nd battery > dual runs of pos and neg to sub amp off 2nd batt. Mids and highs amps will be off the 2nd battery as well. Literally your 2nd battery is the hub for all your amps because its a short run with lots of reserve just in case the amps demand the power, its there.

Optional, ground 2nd batt to chassis. Can literally never have too much grounds imo. but thats just me, this step is completely optional and not necessary at all if a dedicated ground run helps your voltage drops.

You'd have to contact your alternator maker for regulator mod options. I'd do some research just to make sure that its actually an issue.

 

[West1 10+ year member]

here's your power chart
alt pos and neg > 1st battery > pos and neg run to > 2nd battery > dual runs of pos and neg to sub amp off 2nd batt. Mids and highs amps will be off the 2nd battery as well. Literally your 2nd battery is the hub for all your amps because its a short run with lots of reserve just in case the amps demand the power, its there.

Optional, ground 2nd batt to chassis. Can literally never have too much grounds imo. but thats just me, this step is completely optional and not necessary at all if a dedicated ground run helps your voltage drops.

You'd have to contact your alternator maker for regulator mod options. I'd do some research just to make sure that its actually an issue.

I really appreciate the info! Thanks bro

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Get the fawk outta here. You can't seem to buy wiring right what makes you think your a Sundown expert now??

everyone know x with big surround plays lows only.. pretty funny the guy that don't know diff between lp and hp xover insulting my knowledge

 

[West1 10+ year member]

here's your power chart
alt pos and neg > 1st battery > pos and neg run to > 2nd battery > dual runs of pos and neg to sub amp off 2nd batt. Mids and highs amps will be off the 2nd battery as well. Literally your 2nd battery is the hub for all your amps because its a short run with lots of reserve just in case the amps demand the power, its there.

Optional, ground 2nd batt to chassis. Can literally never have too much grounds imo. but thats just me, this step is completely optional and not necessary at all if a dedicated ground run helps your voltage drops.

You'd have to contact your alternator maker for regulator mod options. I'd do some research just to make sure that its actually an issue.

I'm reviewing everything to try and make the bat install fairly easy, would sending bat neg inside on same side as speaker wires create any distortion? I want to keep sub amp ground on chassis and run 2nd bat negative down passenger side.