Subwoofer/Amp Recommendation for '25 Mustang

[DarkMatterDM]

I have been doing some research using Grok AI for a system I plan on putting into a 2025 Mustang GT Premium. An audio shop will do the install, and I plan on them doing the Big 3 first. I cannot find out the amperage on the stock alternator. Even dealerships don't know. However, Grok states around 50-80 amp draw baseline, and coupled with a 1k watt amp I'm in range of being safe from overtaxing the system based up on 2023 GT's. Assuming I would need a capacitor to be safe for the at time power demands.

Number of subs preferred: 2 Subs

Size preferred (if configuration allows): 10"

Budget: Around $2K. Subs listed and amp around $780. Rest going to ANC bypass, PAC module to retain factory options, Amp wiring kit, etc.

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): Kicker46CXA1200.1T 1200 Watt RMS at 2-ohms

Space available (take measurements, do not guess): From Grok AI: 46"W X 35"D X 15-18" H

Goals: Loud bass. I've had sealed and ported setups on and off. I just prefer the sound of Ported.

Listening habits: Rock, Hip-Hop...most music from 50's-2k

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Alpine, JL
Subs I am looking at and set on a Ported Enclsure design. 600RMS for each one:
Kicker CVX50102: 2-ohm DVC. I had a pair of 12's same brand and ohm rating back in 2007 and they still are going strong today at a friends place.
Kicker 44L7S102: 2-ohm DVC. While they have a bit more surface area to move more air, I'm concerned about the Freq rating topping out at 100Hz as I might lose some SQ, compared to the round ones topping out at 500Hz, but the enclosure will be ported so would that really matter?

Would greatly appreciate anyone who knows or who has done an install on '24 or '25 Mustangs, and any input on the options I've listed. I've only tracked down one video of someone putting in 2 12's into the newer Mustangs. Assuming I use an ANC bypass, that's one less thing I'll have to do with Forscan, but I know there is an ESE(Electrical Sound Enhancement) setting that can cause issues and can be disabled via Forscan.

Below is what Grok had to say about the whole idea:
The 2025 Ford Mustang GT (assuming you're referring to the fastback coupe, as the convertible has less trunk space) has a trunk capacity of 13.5 cubic feet, which is consistent with recent Mustang models like the 2015-2023 versions and hasn’t been notably altered based on available specs for 2025. This figure comes from Ford’s official documentation and various reviews of the Mustang lineup. The trunk dimensions are approximately 46 inches wide at the widest point, 35 inches deep, and 15-18 inches tall (depending on the slope of the trunk lid and rear shelf), though these can vary slightly due to the curvature and design.
Now, let’s break down your audio setup to see if it fits:

1. Kicker CVX50102 Subwoofers (10-inch):
   • Each 10-inch subwoofer requires a ported enclosure for optimal performance. According to Kicker’s specs, a single 10" CVX sub in a ported box needs about 1.25 to 2.25 cubic feet of volume, depending on tuning frequency (typically 30-40 Hz for deep bass). For two subs, you’re looking at a total recommended volume of 2.5 to 4.5 cubic feet.
   • A typical dual 10" ported box might measure roughly 30-34 inches wide, 14-16 inches deep, and 12-14 inches tall, depending on the design (e.g., slot port vs. round ports). This assumes a compact build, but ported boxes often need extra depth or height for the port length.
2. Kicker 46CXA1200.1T Amplifier:
   • This amp is relatively compact, with dimensions around 12.5 inches long, 6.75 inches wide, and 2.38 inches tall. It can likely be mounted on the box, trunk wall, or floor, so it won’t take up much additional space beyond the subwoofer enclosure.
3. Fitting It in the Trunk:
   • The trunk’s 13.5 cubic feet is total volume, but usable space is constrained by its shape—narrower at the opening (about 24-26 inches wide) and sloping toward the rear seats. A dual 10" ported box (e.g., 32" W x 15" D x 14" H, roughly 3.5 cubic feet external volume) should physically fit through the opening and sit flat, leaving some room around it. The 46-inch width of the trunk allows for side-to-side placement, and the 35-inch depth accommodates the box’s footprint. Height is trickier due to the slope, but 14 inches should clear it if positioned correctly.
   • The amp can be mounted on top of the box or along the trunk’s side, preserving access to the remaining space (about 9-10 cubic feet after the box).

Conclusion: Yes, you can fit two 10" Kicker CVX50102 subwoofers in a ported box with a Kicker 46CXA1200.1T amp in the 2025 Mustang GT trunk. A well-designed box (around 3-4 cubic feet total external volume) will take up less than a third of the trunk’s capacity, leaving space for other items. For comparison, Mustang owners have successfully installed dual 12" subs in ported boxes, which are larger, so dual 10s are very feasible. Just ensure the box is built to fit the trunk’s contours (e.g., not too tall near the rear) and secure it to avoid rattling or shifting.

Click to read more...

 

[Blackout67]

I haven't put anything into a newer vehicle so I can't help you out in terms of what you need to retain all the factory settings, but I'd stay away from using AI for technical stuff like this. They usually just pull from high traffic sites with incomplete or outright wrong info, so I'd double check with your installer before buying anything. But if you want a real cheap alternative that you can just connect to via Bluetooth, there are digital receivers you can buy to stream Bluetooth straight to it and it comes with RCA and remote power outputs for your amp so you don't have to splice speaker wires or rip apart your dash, meaning it's save you some money, as long as you are paying them by the hour and not a flat rate. Plus you can move it to your next vehicle and you won't have to buy any proprietary hardware to make it work with your factory headunit


As for the 100hz vs 500hz frequency response, those numbers don't matter. You'll see all kinds of speakers with "frequency response" realistically any speaker can respond to any signal that passes thru it, it just depends on the amount of power it can take and for how long.
For instance midrange PA speakers will always have the frequency response something like 100hz to 4k. That speaker will play down to sub bass but it's not going to be very loud and it won't be able to do it for as long or take as much power doing it as say a midwoofer that was designed specially for those ranges. 500hz is well into midbass territory.

For your sub setup in a car, 100-120 hz should be the highest your sub should be crossed over at, and with a steep rolloff in a sealed box. Ported boxes are meant specifically to dig deep and subwoofers are already specially meant to play sub bass so you'll be drawing more power to play those frequencies that your subwoofer doesn't need to be playing. Save the heat and wattage for the 80-30hz bass range. A good subwoofer will have a faraday ring that blocks midbass to cut down on induction anyhow.

Also what kind of loud bass do you like? Super low that makes your panels wave? Or do you like it higher to get that chest thump from kick drums? (Country music has some brutal bass from the drums in the 40-50hz range)? Or are you just wanting a good all rounder? Also are you set on Kicker/Fosgate? There's much better alternatives that are cheaper. They don't make bad products by any means but the premium you pay is not worth it for me. NVXs top range subwoofers are cheaper than some of Kicker/RFs entry/mid level products and performance is much better.

Lastly, are you having the shop build you a box? Are you ordering one offline? Or do the subs you are looking at come in a box?

 

[DarkMatterDM]

I haven't put anything into a newer vehicle so I can't help you out in terms of what you need to retain all the factory settings, but I'd stay away from using AI for technical stuff like this. They usually just pull from high traffic sites with incomplete or outright wrong info, so I'd double check with your installer before buying anything. But if you want a real cheap alternative that you can just connect to via Bluetooth, there are digital receivers you can buy to stream Bluetooth straight to it and it comes with RCA and remote power outputs for your amp so you don't have to splice speaker wires or rip apart your dash, meaning it's save you some money, as long as you are paying them by the hour and not a flat rate. Plus you can move it to your next vehicle and you won't have to buy any proprietary hardware to make it work with your factory headunit


As for the 100hz vs 500hz frequency response, those numbers don't matter. You'll see all kinds of speakers with "frequency response" realistically any speaker can respond to any signal that passes thru it, it just depends on the amount of power it can take and for how long.
For instance midrange PA speakers will always have the frequency response something like 100hz to 4k. That speaker will play down to sub bass but it's not going to be very loud and it won't be able to do it for as long or take as much power doing it as say a midwoofer that was designed specially for those ranges. 500hz is well into midbass territory.

For your sub setup in a car, 100-120 hz should be the highest your sub should be crossed over at, and with a steep rolloff in a sealed box. Ported boxes are meant specifically to dig deep and subwoofers are already specially meant to play sub bass so you'll be drawing more power to play those frequencies that your subwoofer doesn't need to be playing. Save the heat and wattage for the 80-30hz bass range. A good subwoofer will have a faraday ring that blocks midbass to cut down on induction anyhow.

Also what kind of loud bass do you like? Super low that makes your panels wave? Or do you like it higher to get that chest thump from kick drums? (Country music has some brutal bass from the drums in the 40-50hz range)? Or are you just wanting a good all rounder? Also are you set on Kicker/Fosgate? There's much better alternatives that are cheaper. They don't make bad products by any means but the premium you pay is not worth it for me. NVXs top range subwoofers are cheaper than some of Kicker/RFs entry/mid level products and performance is much better.

Lastly, are you having the shop build you a box? Are you ordering one offline? Or do the subs you are looking at come in a box?

Thanks for all of the info!
I had not heard about those digital receivers before, and will need to research that more, but these new Mustangs have the big screens in the dash, and I've read that people tap into the rear speaker or sub wires near the trunk area for the signal.


Appreciate the explanation on the frequency response, and I agree. In that case I would opt for the L7's, but I'm going to take a look at those NVX's. The manufacturers I listed I like b/c I've yet to have issues with their products. Always up for looking at alternatives. I used to keep up with Car Audio much more back in the 90's when I had my first system: Original "Thunder" MTX 2300 amp paired to two 12" MTX Thundercasts(ones with 1k watts each on dust cone).

I would have shop build me a custom box, and I know the box is one of the most important things and needs to be done right in accordance with the speaker and angled properly in the car. I prefer to have speakers rear firing towards trunk and back of box pushed up against rear seats(which fold down in the Mustang).

Edit:
I found the NVX you are talking about. NVX VSW102 Version 3.
Also looking at Sundown Audio SWEV410D2.
Rockford Fosgate Power T1D210. Used to have the original Power T1's and they would hit so loud TV screens in nearby business' would get wavy, and even knocked out systems to fast food restaurants in the drive thru with 'em.

 

[Blackout67]

Thanks for all of the info!
I had not heard about those digital receivers before, and will need to research that more, but these new Mustangs have the big screens in the dash, and I've read that people tap into the rear speaker or sub wires near the trunk area for the signal.


Appreciate the explanation on the frequency response, and I agree. In that case I would opt for the L7's, but I'm going to take a look at those NVX's. The manufacturers I listed I like b/c I've yet to have issues with their products. Always up for looking at alternatives. I used to keep up with Car Audio much more back in the 90's when I had my first system: Original "Thunder" MTX 2300 amp paired to two 12" MTX Thundercasts(ones with 1k watts each on dust cone).

I would have shop build me a custom box, and I know the box is one of the most important things and needs to be done right in accordance with the speaker and angled properly in the car. I prefer to have speakers rear firing towards trunk and back of box pushed up against rear seats(which fold down in the Mustang).

No problem.

By digital receivers I mean something like this. You just mount it wherever you want and you don't have to mess around with the factory head unit. You'd completely bypass the factory radio (still in the dash) and connect directly to the receiver that send the signal to your amps. Some would say this is a downside cause they want to use the factory radio, but if I had a newer car this would be the option I'd take to save money and time and like I said you can swap it freely between vehicles. Plus it has a plethora of EQ options to dial in the sound to your liking.

Here are some links to good alternatives for you since you aren't specifically set on Kicker/RF. Either way you go will sound good tho, like you said the box and how you have it installed is gonna make or break your enjoyment:
These would be a good comparison against the L7s
Compare these to those CVXs (my girl had a single 12 in her Camry in a 2.3 cubic foot box on 600 watts and God loud and deep AF)

As for the amp I would consider this one. Comes with a bass knob that has a voltage and temperature meter and it has a clip light so it'll tell you if you are over driving the amp. Plus they have like 8 different colors to choose from and are very underrated. D4S rates them at 800 watts @ 1 ohm but it puts out 1400 on the dyno. I have had several of their amps, they are all great

 

[Blackout67]

No problem.

By digital receivers I mean something like this. You just mount it wherever you want and you don't have to mess around with the factory head unit. You'd completely bypass the factory radio (still in the dash) and connect directly to the receiver that send the signal to your amps. Some would say this is a downside cause they want to use the factory radio, but if I had a newer car this would be the option I'd take to save money and time and like I said you can swap it freely between vehicles. Plus it has a plethora of EQ options to dial in the sound to your liking.

Here are some links to good alternatives for you since you aren't specifically set on Kicker/RF. Either way you go will sound good tho, like you said the box and how you have it installed is gonna make or break your enjoyment:
These would be a good comparison against the L7s
Compare these to those CVXs (my girl had a single 12 in her Camry in a 2.3 cubic foot box on 600 watts and God loud and deep AF)

As for the amp I would consider this one. Comes with a bass knob that has a voltage and temperature meter and it has a clip light so it'll tell you if you are over driving the amp. Plus they have like 8 different colors to choose from and are very underrated. D4S rates them at 800 watts @ 1 ohm but it puts out 1400 on the dyno. I have had several of their amps, they are all great

Just realized that 2nd link for the subwoofers I out the wrong one in

Here ya go

 

[Old_Slapper]

I have been doing some research using Grok AI for a system I plan on putting into a 2025 Mustang GT Premium. An audio shop will do the install, and I plan on them doing the Big 3 first. I cannot find out the amperage on the stock alternator. Even dealerships don't know. However, Grok states around 50-80 amp draw baseline, and coupled with a 1k watt amp I'm in range of being safe from overtaxing the system based up on 2023 GT's. Assuming I would need a capacitor to be safe for the at time power demands.

Number of subs preferred: 2 Subs

Size preferred (if configuration allows): 10"

Budget: Around $2K. Subs listed and amp around $780. Rest going to ANC bypass, PAC module to retain factory options, Amp wiring kit, etc.

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): Kicker46CXA1200.1T 1200 Watt RMS at 2-ohms

Space available (take measurements, do not guess): From Grok AI: 46"W X 35"D X 15-18" H

Goals: Loud bass. I've had sealed and ported setups on and off. I just prefer the sound of Ported.

Listening habits: Rock, Hip-Hop...most music from 50's-2k

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, Alpine, JL
Subs I am looking at and set on a Ported Enclsure design. 600RMS for each one:
Kicker CVX50102: 2-ohm DVC. I had a pair of 12's same brand and ohm rating back in 2007 and they still are going strong today at a friends place.
Kicker 44L7S102: 2-ohm DVC. While they have a bit more surface area to move more air, I'm concerned about the Freq rating topping out at 100Hz as I might lose some SQ, compared to the round ones topping out at 500Hz, but the enclosure will be ported so would that really matter?

Would greatly appreciate anyone who knows or who has done an install on '24 or '25 Mustangs, and any input on the options I've listed. I've only tracked down one video of someone putting in 2 12's into the newer Mustangs. Assuming I use an ANC bypass, that's one less thing I'll have to do with Forscan, but I know there is an ESE(Electrical Sound Enhancement) setting that can cause issues and can be disabled via Forscan.

A 2025 Mustang should have a 175a to 200a alternator. Check for the part number on your alternator. Research it, and it will tell you how big the alternator is. You wouldn't really need a bigger alternator, but it wouldn't hurt. You will definitely need a cap. Probably at least a 5 farad.

For me, I would choose the L7's and the 1200 watt amp. You don't normally cross over a 10" sub above 90 hz, so I wouldn't worry about the 100 hz limit.

If you have any sound deadening matting under your rear deck, you might want to remove it. That will allow more bass to come into your cab. However, it will be a good idea to put some sound deadening material, like Dynamat, on the rear deck, but make sure not to cover any holes.

 

[DarkMatterDM]

A 2025 Mustang should have a 175a to 200a alternator. Check for the part number on your alternator. Research it, and it will tell you how big the alternator is. You wouldn't really need a bigger alternator, but it wouldn't hurt. You will definitely need a cap. Probably at least a 5 farad.

For me, I would choose the L7's and the 1200 watt amp. You don't normally cross over a 10" sub above 90 hz, so I wouldn't worry about the 100 hz limit.

If you have any sound deadening matting under your rear deck, you might want to remove it. That will allow more bass to come into your cab. However, it will be a good idea to put some sound deadening material, like Dynamat, on the rear deck, but make sure not to cover any holes.

Thanks. I've been trying to educate myself more these past few days.
Good idea on that matting that they sometimes put under the deck. I plan on putting sound deadening in the trunk and definitley the rear deck too.
I'm still leaning towards the L7's atm and Kicker amp.

 

[DarkMatterDM]

I found out that my alternator is 190 amps, so I'm looking at a 1k-1.2k system now for sure.

Thinking I'm going to try out a pair of NVX subs:

NVX VSW104v3 10"​

I'm not sure what kind of amp I want to get. I know you want to match the RMS, and each sub is 500 RMS, but would getting a 1200 watt amp be a better idea just to have that extra bit of power or stick with a 1k amp?

Looking at a Sundown SALT 1k mono amp. I like that the bass remote it comes with has a display for voltage, protection, clipping, etc.
Definitely going with a ported box too. My measurements inside the trunk are 34"W X 14"H X 23"D Depth can be more and that is about just past halfway depth wise in the trunk.

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

I'm curious about how your factory stereo sound?? I would think that a 2025 would have a good sounding system? When I first started adding a amp and subwoofers, I purchased the PAC harness and I was off to the races. Later, I pulled the entire system and installed a new one with headunit, 3 amplifiers, new speakers, and 2 12 inch subs. I kept my factory alternator and added a capacitor, which I later trashed. I didn't see any benefit. I play my music loud (8 speakers, 3 amps, and 2 subwoofer),and my factory alternator and battery work fine. I have a volt meter wired in my trunk to moniter the power. Good luck with your project.

 

[Old_Slapper]

For an LOC, you might want to make sure you have one that has Bass Restoration. I just listened to a buddies 2025 GT, and the bass drops off as you turn the volume up. An LOC with Bass Restoration will prevent your subs from rolling off as you turn up the volume. Something like the AudioControl LC2i would work Accu Bass.

 

[DarkMatterDM]

Thanks for mentioning the bass drop off. I got a AudioControl LC2i Pro LOC all ready.
Saw a post earlier from someone who is running 2300 watts through the stock DarkHorse w/o strain.
So, I'm gonna take a risk at 1500 watts. Factoring in efficiency of a D amp and other factors it should work.

Now, I gotta research some more for a pair of 750 RMS subs.

Edit: Going with Sundown SALT 1.5k amp and 2 B2 Audio Riot 10's 750 RMS each in a ported box.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Thanks for mentioning the bass drop off. I got a AudioControl LC2i Pro LOC all ready.
Saw a post earlier from someone who is running 2300 watts through the stock DarkHorse w/o strain.
So, I'm gonna take a risk at 1500 watts. Factoring in efficiency of a D amp and other factors it should work.

Now, I gotta research some more for a pair of 750 RMS subs.

Edit: Going with Sundown SALT 1.5k amp and 2 B2 Audio Riot 10's 750 RMS each in a ported box.

Efficiency isn't what you would take into consideration when looking at the amp draw from the alternator. Amp draw is amp draw. You can't change it. If you have 1500 watt amplifier, it's going to draw about 150 amps. Amplifier efficiency is not going to change that. The efficiency part comes into play when you talk about how much of that power actually goes to the speakers/subwoofers.

 

[DarkMatterDM]

Update on build:
Using an Audio Control L2Ci Pro LOC with a Sundown SALT 1.5k amp powereing 2 10" B2 Audio RIOT DVC 4-Ohm subs. They are getting put in a 4'th Order Bandpass where Fb and Fc are 46.8 Hz.

 

[Old_Slapper]

Is a bandpass recommended for that sub? With that much power and Xmax, it might not work too well. I would just slap those subs in a ported box. It will also sound better. Have you also looked at the NVX VCW10v3 subs? They handle more power and have a bit more Xmax, to pressurize your cab.

 

[DarkMatterDM]

Yeah, they are able to be put in a 4'th order bandpass and sound good.

B2 Audio USA Riot V2 10" 750W RMS Dual 4-Ohm 3" Coil Subwoofer

The RIOT Series V2 10" Subwoofer at B2 Audio USA delivers powerful & precise bass! Features 750W RMS, Dual 4-Ohm 3" Voice Coil, & 83.1 dB Sensitivity!

www.b2audiousa.com

Guy doing the work has 33 years experience and is a Sundown and B2 Audio dealer too, so I'm in good hands there.