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Subwoofer/Amp Recommendation for '25 Mustang
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<blockquote data-quote="Blackout67" data-source="post: 8892735" data-attributes="member: 683415"><p>I haven't put anything into a newer vehicle so I can't help you out in terms of what you need to retain all the factory settings, but I'd stay away from using AI for technical stuff like this. They usually just pull from high traffic sites with incomplete or outright wrong info, so I'd double check with your installer before buying anything. But if you want a real cheap alternative that you can just connect to via Bluetooth, there are digital receivers you can buy to stream Bluetooth straight to it and it comes with RCA and remote power outputs for your amp so you don't have to splice speaker wires or rip apart your dash, meaning it's save you some money, as long as you are paying them by the hour and not a flat rate. Plus you can move it to your next vehicle and you won't have to buy any proprietary hardware to make it work with your factory headunit</p><p></p><p></p><p>As for the 100hz vs 500hz frequency response, those numbers don't matter. You'll see all kinds of speakers with "frequency response" realistically any speaker can respond to any signal that passes thru it, it just depends on the amount of power it can take and for how long.</p><p>For instance midrange PA speakers will always have the frequency response something like 100hz to 4k. That speaker will play down to sub bass but it's not going to be very loud and it won't be able to do it for as long or take as much power doing it as say a midwoofer that was designed specially for those ranges. 500hz is well into midbass territory.</p><p></p><p>For your sub setup in a car, 100-120 hz should be the highest your sub should be crossed over at, and with a steep rolloff in a sealed box. Ported boxes are meant specifically to dig deep and subwoofers are already specially meant to play sub bass so you'll be drawing more power to play those frequencies that your subwoofer doesn't need to be playing. Save the heat and wattage for the 80-30hz bass range. A good subwoofer will have a faraday ring that blocks midbass to cut down on induction anyhow.</p><p></p><p>Also what kind of loud bass do you like? Super low that makes your panels wave? Or do you like it higher to get that chest thump from kick drums? (Country music has some brutal bass from the drums in the 40-50hz range)? Or are you just wanting a good all rounder? Also are you set on Kicker/Fosgate? There's much better alternatives that are cheaper. They don't make bad products by any means but the premium you pay is not worth it for me. NVXs top range subwoofers are cheaper than some of Kicker/RFs entry/mid level products and performance is much better.</p><p></p><p>Lastly, are you having the shop build you a box? Are you ordering one offline? Or do the subs you are looking at come in a box?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blackout67, post: 8892735, member: 683415"] I haven't put anything into a newer vehicle so I can't help you out in terms of what you need to retain all the factory settings, but I'd stay away from using AI for technical stuff like this. They usually just pull from high traffic sites with incomplete or outright wrong info, so I'd double check with your installer before buying anything. But if you want a real cheap alternative that you can just connect to via Bluetooth, there are digital receivers you can buy to stream Bluetooth straight to it and it comes with RCA and remote power outputs for your amp so you don't have to splice speaker wires or rip apart your dash, meaning it's save you some money, as long as you are paying them by the hour and not a flat rate. Plus you can move it to your next vehicle and you won't have to buy any proprietary hardware to make it work with your factory headunit As for the 100hz vs 500hz frequency response, those numbers don't matter. You'll see all kinds of speakers with "frequency response" realistically any speaker can respond to any signal that passes thru it, it just depends on the amount of power it can take and for how long. For instance midrange PA speakers will always have the frequency response something like 100hz to 4k. That speaker will play down to sub bass but it's not going to be very loud and it won't be able to do it for as long or take as much power doing it as say a midwoofer that was designed specially for those ranges. 500hz is well into midbass territory. For your sub setup in a car, 100-120 hz should be the highest your sub should be crossed over at, and with a steep rolloff in a sealed box. Ported boxes are meant specifically to dig deep and subwoofers are already specially meant to play sub bass so you'll be drawing more power to play those frequencies that your subwoofer doesn't need to be playing. Save the heat and wattage for the 80-30hz bass range. A good subwoofer will have a faraday ring that blocks midbass to cut down on induction anyhow. Also what kind of loud bass do you like? Super low that makes your panels wave? Or do you like it higher to get that chest thump from kick drums? (Country music has some brutal bass from the drums in the 40-50hz range)? Or are you just wanting a good all rounder? Also are you set on Kicker/Fosgate? There's much better alternatives that are cheaper. They don't make bad products by any means but the premium you pay is not worth it for me. NVXs top range subwoofers are cheaper than some of Kicker/RFs entry/mid level products and performance is much better. Lastly, are you having the shop build you a box? Are you ordering one offline? Or do the subs you are looking at come in a box? [/QUOTE]
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Subwoofer/Amp Recommendation for '25 Mustang
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