Started the demo car build.

djdilliodon!

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Nov 12, 2021
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Everyone has a price man, lol. I need some anarchy mids crammed in the doors of my Jetta and that's some damn fine work ya did there.

I just got my 3-way front stage installed with temporary pods for the first time. I officially have 66 percent of a stereo installed again! Well, more like 50 percent, wires are ******* everywhere...

Matt
You are absolutely right but I highly doubt anyone is gonna wanna pay me the amount it would take me to do it 😂. I’m dreading building the box but I guess ima have to bust out my skills on that next lol. Use to build them all the time but it got boring to me. Right now figuring out if I’m gonna do it in mdf or birch. Birch isn’t as easy as I thought to find over here (4’x8’ sheets) which is why mdf is being considered. The amp rack I’m going to build out of 1/2” Mdf.

Clean it up! I hate messy wiring cause if you ever have to do something in the future, it’s a pain to figure out what is what. I label everything!
 

mat3833

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You are absolutely right but I highly doubt anyone is gonna wanna pay me the amount it would take me to do it 😂. I’m dreading building the box but I guess ima have to bust out my skills on that next lol. Use to build them all the time but it got boring to me. Right now figuring out if I’m gonna do it in mdf or birch. Birch isn’t as easy as I thought to find over here (4’x8’ sheets) which is why mdf is being considered. The amp rack I’m going to build out of 1/2” Mdf.

Clean it up! I hate messy wiring cause if you ever have to do something in the future, it’s a pain to figure out what is what. I label everything!

LOL, shit is labeled man. It's just not tucked. I literally just ran the wires under the dash and then tossed them into the back seat to connect to the amp. It's a ******* Disaster back there.

I still have to make an amp rack, mount the crossovers somewhere, pick a sub to run temporarily, and put the dash/trim back together.

Matt
 

djdilliodon!

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LOL, shit is labeled man. It's just not tucked. I literally just ran the wires under the dash and then tossed them into the back seat to connect to the amp. It's a ******* Disaster back there.

I still have to make an amp rack, mount the crossovers somewhere, pick a sub to run temporarily, and put the dash/trim back together.

Matt
So basically what ya saying is you just wanted it hooked up and didn’t have the patience to do it right 🤔😂. I have done this many times myself 😂🤣
 

mat3833

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So basically what ya saying is you just wanted it hooked up and didn’t have the patience to do it right 🤔😂. I have done this many times myself 😂🤣
Not completely, I was re-wiring the entire front stage so I had to pull all of the wires out to begin with. Amps and crossovers used to be in the trunk, but now they will be behind the passenger seat area.

I got the pods with the midrange and tweeters wired up and put on the dash, and got the midbass re-wired. Before I tuck all the wires I wanted to hear it and make sure shit was good. So I laid out the amp, crossovers, etc and just hooked it up.

Now I've got to go back and tuck the wires, put the trim back together, install my glove box again, and then make a rack to hold everything. I'm not daily driving the car yet, so no real rush. Still need to change the oil pan, put a new turbo to downpipe gasket on and put a set of tires on the car before its daily-able.

Matt
 

djdilliodon!

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Not completely, I was re-wiring the entire front stage so I had to pull all of the wires out to begin with. Amps and crossovers used to be in the trunk, but now they will be behind the passenger seat area.

I got the pods with the midrange and tweeters wired up and put on the dash, and got the midbass re-wired. Before I tuck all the wires I wanted to hear it and make sure shit was good. So I laid out the amp, crossovers, etc and just hooked it up.

Now I've got to go back and tuck the wires, put the trim back together, install my glove box again, and then make a rack to hold everything. I'm not daily driving the car yet, so no real rush. Still need to change the oil pan, put a new turbo to downpipe gasket on and put a set of tires on the car before its daily-able.

Matt
It’s always smart to test before putting everything back together. ***** when it’s all together and u find out something is wrong and have to take everything apart again!

I’m riding around with the back seat area bare and no door panels lol. I have the driver side window switch in tie strapped to the door so I can use my window 😂. I’m concentrating on doing all in door work now so i can give the weather a chance to change so I ain’t freezing my ass off doing the rest outside.
 

hispls

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Been busy but almost got all these cones done as I’m doing a run of these. After I finish glassing the backs I can start building some subs! Gonna run some insanely large dust caps on mine lol. They nearly cover the entire cone.
Are you adding some sort of composite to those cones?
 

djdilliodon!

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Are you adding some sort of composite to those cones?
A light weight resin is applied on the back only. 2 coats and then once the coil and spider is attached I do the small part that is left. This adds very little weight but makes them way more stiff. Total cone weight after the resin is 312 grams on my scale.
 

hispls

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A light weight resin is applied on the back only. 2 coats and then once the coil and spider is attached I do the small part that is left. This adds very little weight but makes them way more stiff. Total cone weight after the resin is 312 grams on my scale.
I can't imagine you'd need to worry about breaking cones in your application or anywhere sub 165dB really. I'm sure 10% or less MMS makes much difference anyway, but that looks like a rugged enough cone on its own.
 

djdilliodon!

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I can't imagine you'd need to worry about breaking cones in your application or anywhere sub 165dB really. I'm sure 10% or less MMS makes much difference anyway, but that looks like a rugged enough cone on its own.
The weight that it adds, why not do it (just a few grams adds tops 5%). The resin when dry will actually float in water it’s so light. The cones can flex with hand pressure (purposely trying to bend them from the coil opening) but after you can’t bend them. Cheap insurance imo and I do all in this style this way as someone might wanna run 6 or 12 of them so who knows how loud they wanna get lol. In majority of applications tho, it’s not something that is really needed just like stitched surrounds imo.
 

djdilliodon!

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Finished all the other builds I had going on and now I can concentrate on my own stuff! Motors are studded with the spacers in place and I painted the coils black. Precision econo wind does offer this but I choose to do it myself. They are 8 layer coils with aramid sheet wrapped collars using aluminum flat wire with the black high temp coating. The formers are black anodized aluminum and are ported. Since the cones I’m using have an increased height, the leads exit 2” below the top (how I prefer it). Total weight of the cone including the surround, huge dust cap, and coil is 495 grams. With a smaller dust cap the overall weight would be right at 462-474 depending on size and material. I’ll be a bit busy this weekend with family so may not get to start the rest till Monday but I’ll see if I can sneak away from them and do some building 😂.
 

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djdilliodon!

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Had a busy weekend and wasn’t able to get anything done on the subs but will get a jump on them later tomorrow and have them done by Tuesday. I should be able to start building the box by Saturday along with the amp rack.
 

djdilliodon!

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Doing a cone change as I want the overall weight lighter. The cone change after glassing saves 100 grams in weight without sacrificing strength so I feel it’s worth doing. I put the subs to the side as the wife got on me about doing the floors in the house. Since the table saw is coming out and getting flooring delivered you know I had to sneak some MDF in to be delivered and multi task 😂. Box is 7.5 cubic feet after displacement with 120 sq inch of port tuned slightly under 32 hz. Front is double baffled with a flush cut for the subs and port face having rounded edges. The cut line you see around the beveled edge is where the carpet will stop. Just finishing up painting the port and then will do some corner braces. After that the top will go on. Waiting for the terminals to get here and carpet.
 

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