Silverado budget build, options...

Yeah there's tons of room back there with no seat!! I want to keep it under the seat, it's sort of become a "lets see how much we can do with so little" project.

The bracket on the passenger side won't be in the way at all since it's up on the little shelf. The driver side bracket will be right against the box. The ports were going to be a bit offset towards the front/top portion of the box with 90* elbows on them to put them opening towards the back wall of the box. They're only like 9" long each.

If I have to make one side of the box a bit shorter because of the bracket, I will adjust the box divider that will be on top of the transmission hump a bit towards the other side to keep volumes equal.

Budget on the amp was $200 or so, but I've never realized how much high power reliability costs. I've gotten deals from cadence in the past that were at cost so I never thought about what it really costs to go 1000w+ That amp is $270, So it's above what I wanted to spend but I think I will be much happier. I was looking at the PPI amps, but since they sold out I don't really trust it. IT's in the soundstream/power acoustik family.

Do you think that true 1500rms would be fine on two 1200w reccomended rms speakers? It's about 60% power to each (at least). I have ordered the speakers. For the price (sub 300) I can't find any amps with a good reputation and proven numbers that are anywhere near 1500w.

 
There's nothing wrong with mdf wood... You can call him and give him any port dimensions you want and he will build it, it's not a prefab you can get it custom to your liking. And like I said, for someone with no wood working skills this would be a great option
Hey, that's a great option for anyone in my situation!

I will be building the enclosure myself so I can make sure bracing is up to par, outside edges will all be rounded with a router. Counter sunk and flush the screws so I can smooth the box and put a nice paint job on it. The bed liner look isn't doing it for me. I might do satin black with chrome hardware/grilles. I might make some custom stainless speaker grilles that can slide in on a track for the front of the box too. I'd have to chokeabitch if someone put their heel through one of these baby's.

 
I'd like a pic of the seat back extension. I've cut mine to allow the seat back to fold down.
Let me get back to you on those when I take the seat out to mount the amp. It was really super simple. There's holes for the rubber bumpers, just pop it out of the bottom one, put in appropriately sized piece of steel. Might have been .125x1" flat steel. You mount the steel piece to the under side (towards seat) on the stock bracket, and the U shape of the stamped steel stock bracket sort of holds the new flat stock. I'll snap one for you when I start the amp rack!
 
When folding the back of the seat down to show people where the amps are. The seat back is visible.
Factory, the seats don't fold down from the rear and I kept it that way. I could probably shorten them to make it fold when you fold the bottom portion up, but I didn't. It's not the prettiest solution if that was the case, but you can't see it the way it is right now.

Edit: If you did it the way I did, you could probably just use a larger piece of foam, and continue it onto the factory seat mount. There's an idea worth trying out!

 
Went ahead and re did my power wire and amp ground with 1/0 gauge!

Big 3 coming soon!

MK33GQ8.jpg


vFt0mv4.jpg


Had to re-do the terminals that GM uses...

JHdZ1CR.jpg


 
Get some nice welding terminal rings. Not those poopy car audio ones.
Are you talking about these?

bc1.jpg


Will they make a big difference? They're so **** big! (Width and length). I suppose with my belt sander I could shape them down if I need to.

Those are about $1 cheaper locally.

 
Are you talking about these?
bc1.jpg


Will they make a big difference? They're so **** big! (Width and length). I suppose with my belt sander I could shape them down if I need to.

Those are about $1 cheaper locally.
Yea those are much better. You can even get tinned copper ones so they won't corrode under the hood in the elements

 
Kind of strange that an industry thrives (audio wire/terminals) along side another that has OSHA and tens of millions of real every day working customers, and I've never seen these welding terminals before. Marketing is on point for the audio world!

Edit: I see that you say you're a CNC machinist @los33, what do you work on? We have a fadal 4020 in the shop.
 
[quote name='chubbza5']Kind of strange that an industry thrives (audio wire/terminals) along side another that has OSHA and tens of millions of real every day working customers, and I've never seen these welding terminals before. Marketing is on point for the audio world!

Edit: I see that you say you're a CNC machinist @los33, what do you work on? We have a fadal 4020 in the shop.[/QUOTE]

Mainly a doosan puma 5 axis table with live tooling.

Have access to many mori seiki lathes and some mori seiki manuals.

Not to forget the gianagiueseppe pipe bore machine we had imported from Italy.

Mainly all funuc interfaces.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
 
Mainly a doosan puma 5 axis table with live tooling.
Have access to many mori seiki lathes and some mori seiki manuals.

Not to forget the gianagiueseppe pipe bore machine we had imported from Italy.

Mainly all funuc interfaces.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk
Wow, excellent! I have some plans for a train horn that I've been afraid to try to cut (inside bore) on our engine lathe b/c of the material catching or tool pulling into the part. How would that pipe bore do? It's like 4 stepped circles about .25" apart and .1-.4 diameter change between each. I redesigned the k3LA using my best resources ( I couldn't actually get my hands on them ) Spring steel diaphragms etc. Tuning will be done on the horn side of it.

What do you guys do? The shop started as precision medical device MFG. Now we're doing SCUBA dive lights, car accessories, Golf club putters, etc. Trying to keep the chips flyin'!

 
Updating you guys on what's going on.

I finished the overall shape of the box and have finished one side. Dimensions came out a LITTLE different due to GM's wavy *** floor, but still got a gross 1.33 per side.

It's a 4" port, 17"~ long flared with a home made PVC + heat gun port. I have started putting filler over all of my screw holes and I've glued and sealed all internal edges. Only bad part about the port is it's impossible for me to have a 4" port, 4" away from all interior walls (diamater away is reccomended). I know they can be less than 1" away but more is better. It's about 2" from opening because the port ends right above the transmission hump on both sides. So the transmission hump volume will sort of act as a buffer/extended port because of the way it sits. I tuned for 34hz but I know it will probably end up lower because of the way it's designed. Came out to about 1.13 cubes net. Small but sturdy as hell! I used a 4" instead of 3" to avoid port noise. Since it will be close to wall either way, I'd rather just make it a larger port to make sure it won't chuff. I used a metal IKEA lamp shade to do the flare, then pushed it against the ground to make it flat. No fancy setup needed!

caTsIr1.jpg


This project has to be good, I bled all over the box. Blood sweat and beers right?

The sub magnet is about 2.5" away from the PVC tube, although it looks like it would be closer.

Also got one of the hds310's in the mail. Waiting on sub #2 and the SKAR amp to come in!

I'll post pics tomorrow!

Side note: I'm thinking of using some 8 gauge wire as speaker wire since I have a bunch laying around and I don't feel like going and buying some 12 just to wire them. Anyone see any problems with this?

Also, when I put the wires in the speaker terminals from the outside in, it has a hard time fitting through the subwoofer hole in the face. Is it ok to run the wires from the center of the sub, through the sub terminals outwards instead of inwards?

 
Wow, excellent! I have some plans for a train horn that I've been afraid to try to cut (inside bore) on our engine lathe b/c of the material catching or tool pulling into the part. How would that pipe bore do? It's like 4 stepped circles about .25" apart and .1-.4 diameter change between each. I redesigned the k3LA using my best resources ( I couldn't actually get my hands on them ) Spring steel diaphragms etc. Tuning will be done on the horn side of it.
What do you guys do? The shop started as precision medical device MFG. Now we're doing SCUBA dive lights, car accessories, Golf club putters, etc. Trying to keep the chips flyin'!
Sorry for late reply.

Pretty much all oil & gas pipping and air tools.

Im surprised yall do all that using horizontal mills.

I could make a horn easily using a vertical lathe.. Being that it would be aluminum material i use cnmg inserts, really doesnt matter the type since aluminum and most other metals needing ID bore don't wear out the corners as fast.

I set the variable speed low as the cuts get deeper.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

 
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