Silverado budget build, options...

You notice that it says brand extreme enclosures... It's pre fab and I call bs on them tuning anything custom... I'd definitely pass on the mdf enclosure most likely prefab from sound off audio in favor of Baltic birch from an actual box builder

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There's nothing wrong with mdf wood... You can call him and give him any port dimensions you want and he will build it, it's not a prefab you can get it custom to your liking. And like I said, for someone with no wood working skills this would be a great option

 
Hey guys,

Wanted to give everyone an update.

I raised the seat 2 1/2" on some square 11 gauge tube, drilled the holes and made sure they're even so I can pass a ratchet extension through them to tighten oem mounting bolts. Super easy.

93evX5H.jpg


NwCr6Ru.jpg


Had to notch this one to fit and secure the rear hardware.

knQpMzm.jpg


No view obstruction.

I had to add 3" to the back of the seat hooks. I just took 1/8" by .5" steel and drilled 1 hole and bolted it to the bottom hole in the seat bracket. Added foam insulation to stop vibrations.

You can see the setup that came with the truck. Just awful.

I'm going to go with a ported box for 2 10" under the seat.

Using 2 of the SQ HDS310's

For the amp I picked a skar RP-1500 for them. Should do at least rated.

*I know the amp puts out less than the RMS, but it's clean and should do RMS so 750-800 each hopefully. If you think it's a problem , please let me know!!!

Going to use aero ports out the sides, subs forward.

Hoping to get the big 3 done soon, I may be putting a 200amp alternator off an escalade on the pickup if stock isn't cutting it.

All headin' into this

8SvsZgi.jpg


 
what's your budget on your amp? those 2 10's should be perfect. im sure you can get 2 cubes net now.

is your port going to be an issue with those brackets? you may need to come forward a little bit with the box to vent it or port it a different way. may be forced to put both subs on one side or downsize to 2 8s or a single 12 so you can have them on one side and port on the other.

i have a re mt 15 in 5 cubes net if you're wondering how big you can go when you remove the seat

CFBmFcW.jpg


 
Yeah there's tons of room back there with no seat!! I want to keep it under the seat, it's sort of become a "lets see how much we can do with so little" project.

The bracket on the passenger side won't be in the way at all since it's up on the little shelf. The driver side bracket will be right against the box. The ports were going to be a bit offset towards the front/top portion of the box with 90* elbows on them to put them opening towards the back wall of the box. They're only like 9" long each.

If I have to make one side of the box a bit shorter because of the bracket, I will adjust the box divider that will be on top of the transmission hump a bit towards the other side to keep volumes equal.

Budget on the amp was $200 or so, but I've never realized how much high power reliability costs. I've gotten deals from cadence in the past that were at cost so I never thought about what it really costs to go 1000w+ That amp is $270, So it's above what I wanted to spend but I think I will be much happier. I was looking at the PPI amps, but since they sold out I don't really trust it. IT's in the soundstream/power acoustik family.

Do you think that true 1500rms would be fine on two 1200w reccomended rms speakers? It's about 60% power to each (at least). I have ordered the speakers. For the price (sub 300) I can't find any amps with a good reputation and proven numbers that are anywhere near 1500w.

 
There's nothing wrong with mdf wood... You can call him and give him any port dimensions you want and he will build it, it's not a prefab you can get it custom to your liking. And like I said, for someone with no wood working skills this would be a great option
Hey, that's a great option for anyone in my situation!

I will be building the enclosure myself so I can make sure bracing is up to par, outside edges will all be rounded with a router. Counter sunk and flush the screws so I can smooth the box and put a nice paint job on it. The bed liner look isn't doing it for me. I might do satin black with chrome hardware/grilles. I might make some custom stainless speaker grilles that can slide in on a track for the front of the box too. I'd have to chokeabitch if someone put their heel through one of these baby's.

 
I'd like a pic of the seat back extension. I've cut mine to allow the seat back to fold down.
Let me get back to you on those when I take the seat out to mount the amp. It was really super simple. There's holes for the rubber bumpers, just pop it out of the bottom one, put in appropriately sized piece of steel. Might have been .125x1" flat steel. You mount the steel piece to the under side (towards seat) on the stock bracket, and the U shape of the stamped steel stock bracket sort of holds the new flat stock. I'll snap one for you when I start the amp rack!
 
When folding the back of the seat down to show people where the amps are. The seat back is visible.
Factory, the seats don't fold down from the rear and I kept it that way. I could probably shorten them to make it fold when you fold the bottom portion up, but I didn't. It's not the prettiest solution if that was the case, but you can't see it the way it is right now.

Edit: If you did it the way I did, you could probably just use a larger piece of foam, and continue it onto the factory seat mount. There's an idea worth trying out!

 
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