Silverado budget build, options...

[chubbza5]

Get some nice welding terminal rings. Not those poopy car audio ones.

Are you talking about these?

Will they make a big difference? They're so **** big! (Width and length). I suppose with my belt sander I could shape them down if I need to.

Those are about $1 cheaper locally.

 

[Massive spl]

Are you talking about these?

Will they make a big difference? They're so **** big! (Width and length). I suppose with my belt sander I could shape them down if I need to.

Those are about $1 cheaper locally.

Yea those are much better. You can even get tinned copper ones so they won't corrode under the hood in the elements

 

[chubbza5]

Yea those are much better. You can even get tinned copper ones so they won't corrode under the hood in the elements

Just looks like copper pipe that's smashed and drilled on one side... DIY?

 

[los33]

Just looks like copper pipe that's smashed and drilled on one side... DIY?

Thats how most DIY..

Welding lugs are thicker then car audio ring terminals.

They are made for high amperage applications.

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[chubbza5]

Kind of strange that an industry thrives (audio wire/terminals) along side another that has OSHA and tens of millions of real every day working customers, and I've never seen these welding terminals before. Marketing is on point for the audio world!

Edit: I see that you say you're a CNC machinist @los33, what do you work on? We have a fadal 4020 in the shop.

 

[los33]

[quote name='chubbza5']Kind of strange that an industry thrives (audio wire/terminals) along side another that has OSHA and tens of millions of real every day working customers, and I've never seen these welding terminals before. Marketing is on point for the audio world!

Edit: I see that you say you're a CNC machinist @los33, what do you work on? We have a fadal 4020 in the shop.[/QUOTE]

Mainly a doosan puma 5 axis table with live tooling.

Have access to many mori seiki lathes and some mori seiki manuals.

Not to forget the gianagiueseppe pipe bore machine we had imported from Italy.

Mainly all funuc interfaces.

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[chubbza5]

Mainly a doosan puma 5 axis table with live tooling.
Have access to many mori seiki lathes and some mori seiki manuals.

Not to forget the gianagiueseppe pipe bore machine we had imported from Italy.

Mainly all funuc interfaces.

Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk

Wow, excellent! I have some plans for a train horn that I've been afraid to try to cut (inside bore) on our engine lathe b/c of the material catching or tool pulling into the part. How would that pipe bore do? It's like 4 stepped circles about .25" apart and .1-.4 diameter change between each. I redesigned the k3LA using my best resources ( I couldn't actually get my hands on them ) Spring steel diaphragms etc. Tuning will be done on the horn side of it.

What do you guys do? The shop started as precision medical device MFG. Now we're doing SCUBA dive lights, car accessories, Golf club putters, etc. Trying to keep the chips flyin'!

 

[chubbza5]

Updating you guys on what's going on.

I finished the overall shape of the box and have finished one side. Dimensions came out a LITTLE different due to GM's wavy *** floor, but still got a gross 1.33 per side.

It's a 4" port, 17"~ long flared with a home made PVC + heat gun port. I have started putting filler over all of my screw holes and I've glued and sealed all internal edges. Only bad part about the port is it's impossible for me to have a 4" port, 4" away from all interior walls (diamater away is reccomended). I know they can be less than 1" away but more is better. It's about 2" from opening because the port ends right above the transmission hump on both sides. So the transmission hump volume will sort of act as a buffer/extended port because of the way it sits. I tuned for 34hz but I know it will probably end up lower because of the way it's designed. Came out to about 1.13 cubes net. Small but sturdy as hell! I used a 4" instead of 3" to avoid port noise. Since it will be close to wall either way, I'd rather just make it a larger port to make sure it won't chuff. I used a metal IKEA lamp shade to do the flare, then pushed it against the ground to make it flat. No fancy setup needed!

This project has to be good, I bled all over the box. Blood sweat and beers right?

The sub magnet is about 2.5" away from the PVC tube, although it looks like it would be closer.

Also got one of the hds310's in the mail. Waiting on sub #2 and the SKAR amp to come in!

I'll post pics tomorrow!

Side note: I'm thinking of using some 8 gauge wire as speaker wire since I have a bunch laying around and I don't feel like going and buying some 12 just to wire them. Anyone see any problems with this?

Also, when I put the wires in the speaker terminals from the outside in, it has a hard time fitting through the subwoofer hole in the face. Is it ok to run the wires from the center of the sub, through the sub terminals outwards instead of inwards?

 

[els1989]

Yea those are much better. You can even get tinned copper ones so they won't corrode under the hood in the elements

Here's where you should go I got mine from here and they are good quality

http://crimpsupply.com/battery-terminals-copper-lugs/copper-lugs

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[los33]

Wow, excellent! I have some plans for a train horn that I've been afraid to try to cut (inside bore) on our engine lathe b/c of the material catching or tool pulling into the part. How would that pipe bore do? It's like 4 stepped circles about .25" apart and .1-.4 diameter change between each. I redesigned the k3LA using my best resources ( I couldn't actually get my hands on them ) Spring steel diaphragms etc. Tuning will be done on the horn side of it.
What do you guys do? The shop started as precision medical device MFG. Now we're doing SCUBA dive lights, car accessories, Golf club putters, etc. Trying to keep the chips flyin'!

Sorry for late reply.

Pretty much all oil & gas pipping and air tools.

Im surprised yall do all that using horizontal mills.

I could make a horn easily using a vertical lathe.. Being that it would be aluminum material i use cnmg inserts, really doesnt matter the type since aluminum and most other metals needing ID bore don't wear out the corners as fast.

I set the variable speed low as the cuts get deeper.

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[xr650jkallen]

Are you planning on a 2nd battery? I'm needing one and I don't know where the best place to mount it would be. Box is looking sweet btw!!!

 

[Scrappy jr.]

No love for 3-4 8's under the seat on 2-3k power.
It can be had for cheap and still be good

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I've been contemplating shallow subs under the rear seat of my 08 Crew Cab but from everything I hear about them scares me. I'm coming from a single 12w7 so I still want something comparable but not enough room. So after reading everything I'm continplating 2 8w7?