Should I use the double power input my amp brought?

MrPlebbian

CarAudio.com Newbie
So first off I’m extremely new to anything in the electrical/sound world and all I’ve done is off intuition and very small amounts of verification from a friend who works with sound equipment occasionally.

Now on to the main topic. I used to have a 1500W Machete amp powering a Machete M12v2D2 which has a power rating of 500w rms and 1000 peak wires at 1ohm, it sounded great and never gave me issues but I decided that I would upgrade a bit. I know have an Apocalypse AAB 4900.1D powering an Apocalypse DB-SA272-D1 wired at 2 ohms which the amp can send 3200W at 2ohms. The amp brought two dual 1/0 gauge wire inputs but me and my dad decided not to use it. My issue that leads to me asking this question is that ever since the apparent upgrade I think the bass is even weaker than before on all but very specific frequencies. We thought it would be insufficient battery for the hard pulls it could be doing so we added a second battery next to the box in the trunk and connected it to the fuse. This still only helped by what even feels like margin of error to me and the amp would turn on the clip light when the gain was too high(which yes I understand that was probably the settings on the amp for the low/high pass filter, I’ve set those up to the best of my ability now). Now recently I decided to try to set the gain & low/high pass filters to where the clip light won’t turn on anymore unless I raise the gain knob too much at max volume but I noticed the protect light was blinking while the clip wasn’t. From my understanding the protect light means not enough power some way or another and so that raises my question of, should I use the double input blocks? Would that even change anything? Could there be some kind of issue elsewhere in the wiring?

Now some last minute stuff that I realized as I was writing all this. From what my dad remembers the wiring leading up to the fuse and therefor connecting all the batteries and amps is 3 gauge(I’ll double check to see what the wire physically says on the covering) and the amps official manual says the input terminals are meant to use 0 gauge wire, that’s problem two. Problem one is that the output wire on the manual is 8 gauge, and after seeing how thick it looks on Amazon I’m 75% sure that the wire we have is maybe 10-12 gauge, it’s really quite thin and now I’m thinking that could be the main issue. Please note that it’s only from memory and I could ver well be wrong since we got the wire from the shop he works at which deals with decently expensive service so it all tends to be high quality. Nevertheless I would still like to know the answer to my question above nonetheless but if anyone thinks that my last minute concern is valid, please do let me know as well.

Thank you all for your time and for your possible help.
 
Last edited:

KicktheSDbasshead

2 builds 2 feet
Not to be that guy but............Clipping occurs when more power is required from an amplifier then it is able to deliver. Once the maximum amount of power supply voltage has been reached, it becomes impossible to amplify the incoming signal without compromising its form. This means that the signal is amplified but in a very distorted form.
 
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