Setting Gain, LPF, & Subsonic filter questions...

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LetMyBeatPound

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I was looking at some treads about this and watch some vids on how to set the gain, LPF, and Subsonic filter. I pretty much understand that u put volume to 80% and adjust gain upward until it's pitch changes and then back it off a lil bit... And as for the Subsonic filter I guess it suppose to set it to where you don't want to go lower than so I have mine set at 25hrz I think it's around there anyway.... But I didn't understand anything about the LPF... Some vids say to turn it all the way up some said it didn't matter so said match it to our radio so idk wth to do with that one... I have it set to 85hrz now because in the LPF on my HU i have set to 85hrz in both LPF setting which offers 55hrz, 85hrz, n 120hrz... And in the bass setting I have it set to 0+, 85hrz, and 1.5 for the last of the 3 settings under Pro EQ first bass setting is -6 to +6, 2nd is low 55hrz, mid 85hrz, n high 120hrz... 3rd has 1.0, 1.25, 1.5 and 2.0... then middle setting which is pretty much the same then treble which is khrz settings but pretty much the same. Just want to see what y'all have to say about the settings is all.

Thanks in advance!

 
I was looking at some treads about this and watch some vids on how to set the gain, LPF, and Subsonic filter. I pretty much understand that u put volume to 80% and adjust gain upward until it's pitch changes and then back it off a lil bit... And as for the Subsonic filter I guess it suppose to set it to where you don't want to go lower than so I have mine set at 25hrz I think it's around there anyway.... But I didn't understand anything about the LPF... Some vids say to turn it all the way up some said it didn't matter so said match it to our radio so idk wth to do with that one... I have it set to 85hrz now because in the LPF on my HU i have set to 85hrz in both LPF setting which offers 55hrz, 85hrz, n 120hrz... And in the bass setting I have it set to 0+, 85hrz, and 1.5 for the last of the 3 settings under Pro EQ first bass setting is -6 to +6, 2nd is low 55hrz, mid 85hrz, n high 120hrz... 3rd has 1.0, 1.25, 1.5 and 2.0... then middle setting which is pretty much the same then treble which is khrz settings but pretty much the same. Just want to see what y'all have to say about the settings is all.
Thanks in advance!
low pass on the amp set to as wide and high as possible as in OFF, just us the head unit's low pass filter settings only.

 
i'll give you a solid number... low pass on the amp 200 hz or higher.
Low pass on the head unit anywhere from 50hz to 100hz depending on how your subs blend into the midbass region.
OK cool, I don't have very good mids & highs yet, so anything over 80% volume and half way on the bass knob and the bass completely drowns out the music but I'm gonna get probably this p500.4 fosgate amp one of my neighbors is selling brand new for $100 and get these CT sounds Meso component sets to put in my doors in the next month or so... I'm getting an alarm installed for $250 very soon, so I'm not exactly sure when I'll have the money for that..plus the recones ended up being $100 not $60 like I originally thought so that put me a lil behind schedule saving for the component set.

So I put the LPF higher since I don't have much mid bass to blend with or do u put it lower?

 
yep higher so sub can pick up some of the mid bass your mids don't.. i have my lp at 125hz for sub and hp on 120 on door speakers.. so your sub is back together and is loud?

 
OK cool, I don't have very good mids & highs yet, so anything over 80% volume and half way on the bass knob and the bass completely drowns out the music but I'm gonna get probably this p500.4 fosgate amp one of my neighbors is selling brand new for $100 and get these CT sounds Meso component sets to put in my doors in the next month or so... I'm getting an alarm installed for $250 very soon, so I'm not exactly sure when I'll have the money for that..plus the recones ended up being $100 not $60 like I originally thought so that put me a lil behind schedule saving for the component set.
So I put the LPF higher since I don't have much mid bass to blend with or do u put it lower?
what model jvc head unit do you have again? You might be able to achieve some nice results if its the one that can go active. components wont keep up with those two 18s man.

 
what model jvc head unit do you have again? You might be able to achieve some nice results if its the one that can go active. components wont keep up with those two 18s man.
Well I got Sony 5.25 4ways in my dash, no door speakers, and some 6x9 kicker 3ways in the rear hatch. I was gonna add the component set on top of all that and amplify em.

The HU is a KD-S29 it seems pretty good but only has one RCA out on the back which leads me to think that it may not be as good. I know I'm gonna need to upgrade the HU tho... I have that one you told me about, $80 media interface unit w the 4v pre amp out puts, in my eBay cart... Tho I'm trying to find a 80prs but I doubt I'll find one for around $140 unless you could recommend a nice HU for about that $120-140 range with a good preamp output voltage and decent EQ on it unless you think keeping the head unit and investing in a DPS EQ unit would be better... Idk what I want really except that u would like to go hit the Bass competitions eventually...

 
Well I got Sony 5.25 4ways in my dash, no door speakers, and some 6x9 kicker 3ways in the rear hatch. I was gonna add the component set on top of all that and amplify em.
The HU is a KD-S29 it seems pretty good but only has one RCA out on the back which leads me to think that it may not be as good. I know I'm gonna need to upgrade the HU tho... I have that one you told me about, $80 media interface unit w the 4v pre amp out puts, in my eBay cart... Tho I'm trying to find a 80prs but I doubt I'll find one for around $140 unless you could recommend a nice HU for about that $120-140 range with a good preamp output voltage and decent EQ on it unless you think keeping the head unit and investing in a DPS EQ unit would be better... Idk what I want really except that u would like to go hit the Bass competitions eventually...
my kenwood x301 is like $119-$129 has 3 4v pre amps,bt, usb, time alignment, hp lp xovers and about 50 audio setting like car type, speaker location etc.. not for active set up though..

 
Well I got Sony 5.25 4ways in my dash, no door speakers, and some 6x9 kicker 3ways in the rear hatch. I was gonna add the component set on top of all that and amplify em.
The HU is a KD-S29 it seems pretty good but only has one RCA out on the back which leads me to think that it may not be as good. I know I'm gonna need to upgrade the HU tho... I have that one you told me about, $80 media interface unit w the 4v pre amp out puts, in my eBay cart... Tho I'm trying to find a 80prs but I doubt I'll find one for around $140 unless you could recommend a nice HU for about that $120-140 range with a good preamp output voltage and decent EQ on it unless you think keeping the head unit and investing in a DPS EQ unit would be better... Idk what I want really except that u would like to go hit the Bass competitions eventually...
This jvc will beat most 140 dollar range head units. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hPt4F5UUu2V/p_105KDX340B/JVC-KD-X340BTS.html

More speakers does not equal louder. A quality pair of efficient 6.5s and tweeters will be louder than a car with 8 6x9s per door. Just to give you some perspective of how a properly done setup can sound.

A DSP costs you in the range of 250 to 800 dollars, its not worth it. That head unit i listed has a superior EQ to any of the EQ you can find on the market. It also has active network mode which allows you to skip components completely and buy PA speakers that will get a fk ton louder and give you the ability to cross everything over on the head unit for a great blend for good sound quality as well. Basically a good head unit will set you up to have an amazing system on the cheap and will work 100x better than just slapping a pair of components on which will sound like garbage in comparison.

 
my kenwood x301 is like $119-$129 has 3 4v pre amps,bt, usb, time alignment, hp lp xovers and about 50 audio setting like car type, speaker location etc.. not for active set up though..
he will want active. You need to realize that his setup is two 18s which is miles louder than yours which requires actual mids and highs setup, not speakers on head unit power like yours. Not even a pair of components on an amp will do any good either. Two 18s is a whole different world of output gramps, its past average joe level aka your head unit wont cut it.

 
he will want active. You need to realize that his setup is two 18s which is miles louder than yours which requires actual mids and highs setup, not speakers on head unit power like yours. Not even a pair of components on an amp will do any good either. Two 18s is a whole different world of output gramps, its past average joe level aka your head unit wont cut it.
i said it's not for active set up

 
This jvc will beat most 140 dollar range head units. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hPt4F5UUu2V/p_105KDX340B/JVC-KD-X340BTS.html
More speakers does not equal louder. A quality pair of efficient 6.5s and tweeters will be louder than a car with 8 6x9s per door. Just to give you some perspective of how a properly done setup can sound.

A DSP costs you in the range of 250 to 800 dollars, its not worth it. That head unit i listed has a superior EQ to any of the EQ you can find on the market. It also has active network mode which allows you to skip components completely and buy PA speakers that will get a fk ton louder and give you the ability to cross everything over on the head unit for a great blend for good sound quality as well. Basically a good head unit will set you up to have an amazing system on the cheap and will work 100x better than just slapping a pair of components on which will sound like garbage in comparison.
Yes, that's the HU i have in my cart on eBay. OK so no component set. So something like maybe the FU Audio 4" Super Tweeter and the 8" Midbass drivers perhaps? Or would the 4" Super Horn b more appropriate then the 4" Super Tweeter?

FU Car Audio, fu audio, fu car audio (they are all here)

Was thinking to try to keep it all FU it these will work but keeping gear brands match is not an issue for me at all

I don't like that they aren't DVC tho or does that not matter for those?

 
Yes, that's the HU i have in my cart on eBay. OK so no component set. So something like maybe the FU Audio 4" Super Tweeter and the 8" Midbass drivers perhaps? Or would the 4" Super Horn b more appropriate then the 4" Super Tweeter?
FU Car Audio, fu audio, fu car audio (they are all here)

Was thinking to try to keep it all FU it these will work but keeping gear brands match is not an issue for me at all

I don't like that they aren't DVC tho or does that not matter for those?
as long as you have that jvc head unit or any kind of active network capable head unit(if you can get an 80 prs for 140 that'll be the dream), any kind of combination of mid and tweeter should work but i'll need to teach you how to make those super tweeters not sound like sh*t lol. Its not those particular tweeters since i dont have any experience with them but in general super tweeters of any kind sound like **** without proper tuning knowledge. You can make super tweeters sound like silk domes with proper tuning though so its not really an issue unless you have a non active capable head unit then you are completely fked.

 
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