I need help matching amp to my subwoofer in the car

[jw7123]

My last speaker blew out. I had to get a new one which is a Kenwood KFC-W3013PS Performance Series 12". 4ohms with 1200w peak and 400rms. My amp currently is a 1500w amp, I forgot the brand name which I don't think it matters in this case. My last sub had boom to it. I mean the current sub has boom too but the bass tones don't sound as loud as it used to be. All the reviews on this sub have reviews saying it's ultra good. Which my last sub was a 10" alpine vs 12" kenwood. You'd expect to have better bass wouldn't you? So I'm thinking it's the amp. I am not very tech savy with this kind of stuff and tried googling and they make it so complicated. So with my understanding I need an app with 1000w is that correct? Will I notice and improvement vs the 1500w I have now if the sub is rated 400w rms?

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Ok 1st of all, what kind of enclosure is the sub in? Pre fab or custom? 2ndly, that 1500 watt amp you have, gotta know the brand name and model...it does matter because you may be sending it a dirty signal and might need to be tuned a little.

 

[jw7123]

it is a sealed box. Power Acoustik 1500w mono d amp. 600w @40hm

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

That's a garbage brand amp. I mean it's ok to get by on but with it's overinflated ratings, don't expect too much from it. Also, where is the gain set on the amp? Might have to mess around with the settings on the amp. Also position of your sub enclosure could have an impact on how it sounds too.

 

[jw7123]

Yeah man. I messed with the LPF and bass boost, gains the more I turn it up the more it sounds like crap I have to put everything in the middle, and nothing higher. Some songs play amazing bass! But most songs sounds like someones in the back seat tapping the inside of the car with a pencil. I just don't get it.

 

[-------]

10 alpine? what 10? type S, R, G, E?

the old type S was "week" only 200rms and 600 max but dam that sub hits hard..... (friend had 2 of those)

the type G and E are basically the same as the old type S but less power dont know why they do that but they sould hit perty good

type R, the old one 300 rms 1000 max wow was my second sub and dam never but never heard a 10" with that power hit that hard.... my single 10 type r had almost more bass that the 2 type s that a told u before

today u have 2 diferent line up of type R 750 rms and the 1000 rms....

so has u can see just telling alpine 10 doesent mean worst then a 12....

i think alpine has bether bass then kenwood, never been a big fan.... and one day i see a showcar from kenwood with 4 12" and sound like sh#t,my 300rms alpine hit harder and had more bass thar those 4 kenwood since that day to me kenwood fall down the list

but power isnt everything, other thing very importat, the box? is the same where u had the alpine, just bigger hole to fit the 12? or is it new? if new, costum? prefab? rigth cuft for the sub?... more details

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Leave the bass boost from the amp off....that will send a clipped signal to your sub aka a type of distortion signal thus will kill it. The gain isn not a volume knob...has to match your HU voltage.

Does the sub reside in a pre fab enclosure?

 

[jw7123]

I honestly am trying my best in giving you guys details I am not that big of a bass tech. I had it built from some guy in a pawn shop. It is brand new I watched him open the package and the box is brand new. I am pretty sure it was the type S. It did hit hard, maybe a little too hard. Gucci mane blew that sub up LOL. He owes me a sub. Anyways, it is a ported box.. it feels like a hard carpet on all the sides. The alpine was a prefab. It sounds louder in the trunk but the reason why I have it on the back seat because it makes a rattle noise from the trunk and it is very annoying. My last car was a jeep and I had that alpine with 2 other 12's in it sounded amazing! Now I am in a car.. so it's hard to place the sub to where it sounds best I hate that rattle noise! But I had a kicker in the back seat before and that one blew because it was used.. and that hit harder than the kenwood but keep in mind the kenwood has different specs. So I am pretty sure I need a different amp don't I?

 

[jw7123]

I will try that and see what happens but the bass boost is actually 25% of would it can go up too. Sorry that I said it was half way it's only 1/4. And I will check the voltage too but do you think it could be the watts of the amp? Or will there not be a difference if I switch the 1500w to a 1000w?

 

[-------]

....I have to put everything in the middle, and nothing higher...tapping the inside of the car with a pencil....

setting at the midle just becouse u cant go higher doesent mean ist ok...

i maybe wrong but the "pencil" tapping sounds like u r at the mechanical limit of the sub or realy clipping/distorcing the signal or the sound..

set your LPF around 100 or 125hz max, than put the song with most bass u have and set the gain before ane tapping/clipping or distorction, i dont reconmended but if u want u can had a bit of bassboost but no more then 10/15%

it sound sound ok if the box it right for the sub....

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I honestly am trying my best in giving you guys details I am not that big of a bass tech. I had it built from some guy in a pawn shop. It is brand new I watched him open the package and the box is brand new. I am pretty sure it was the type S. It did hit hard, maybe a little too hard. Gucci mane blew that sub up LOL. He owes me a sub. Anyways, it is a ported box.. it feels like a hard carpet on all the sides. The alpine was a prefab. It sounds louder in the trunk but the reason why I have it on the back seat because it makes a rattle noise from the trunk and it is very annoying. My last car was a jeep and I had that alpine with 2 other 12's in it sounded amazing! Now I am in a car.. so it's hard to place the sub to where it sounds best I hate that rattle noise! But I had a kicker in the back seat before and that one blew because it was used.. and that hit harder than the kenwood but keep in mind the kenwood has different specs. So I am pretty sure I need a different amp don't I?

So many things I can point out that your doing wrong.

 

[jw7123]

The pencil sound was just a metaphor on how low the bass plays. My bad.

 

[jw7123]

It's okay just the main question is will a 1000w amp and a 1500w amp have any difference with a 400w rms sub?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

That sub belongs in your trunk, not on the backseat. Your gonna have to locate that rattling sound....it's part of the trunk bass problems if you will from many other people who have gone thru the same thing.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

It's okay just the main question is will a 1000w amp and a 1500w amp have any difference with a 400w rms sub?

No. And wasting $$ buying another amp isn't gonna solve your issue.