It's Audio Technix 60mil and what you're doing is mass-loading the doors so nothing can vibrate and cause resonance. I went heavy around the speaker baffle to make sure there weren't any air gaps and to decouple the speakers from the doors themselves. Behind the deadener is a CCF ring to help with the decoupling. Looks like this:
The CCF weatherstripping would probably be more effective given how much of a gap there is. It's cheap as all getout, too. Use that to pack in around the openings, then seal the rest off with the AT. Only draw is you're going to get a little butyl on your speakers, but that should only be an issue if you want them looking minty when you uninstall them. Here's a link to the weatherstripping:
Same question here.
He's an authorized dealer for a bunch of brands including American Bass. Matter of fact, he's the only online authorized retailer for AB. He can explain the benefits of each and work out pricing with you.
I have seen that before when I got some open cell foam to make a better seal between the speaker and door panel (added after the picture). Problem is that I couldnt find it in a thick enough size. And the way they make it, makes it want to lay flat (so the adhesive sticks down) and I need it to make a circle in a way that isnt natural for the material to bend. Not sure if you understand what I'm saying. I had to use double sided foam tape instead of the adhesive on the open cell foam I used to make it stick because the adhesive strip already on it is in the wrong place. Not sure if that makes sense.
It makes sense. If you can get to a second layer, the pressure of both layers will hold it in place. Open Cell Foam won't do jack, though, since you're trying to keep sound from passing through the medium.
I used the open cell because that's what it said to do on keep hope alive's post about door deadening. I know the main part of deadening is the mdf baffle and closing off the gap, plus mass-loading the door. But I thought I'd just do something at least, and it was easy.
