New to forums questions about audio setup!

[Anatreth]

Not saying you're wrong, but gotgixers put 1400 to them for a while. Maybe that was like nominal or before rise but I doubt it... I put 2000 watts "before rise" to my sa-15 daily and it's been fine for a long time and it's generally considered to be inferior to the fu 750. I'm no expert though

Ok, so now I'm kinda on the fence with the amps again haha. Also, should I be aiming for a 2ohm or 1ohm dvc on the 15? if it was one ohm, that would be the 1.3k and 1.8 respectively, which based on what you guys are saying would need to be gained down due to electrical... or should I just get 2ohm speakers and underpower them? the sdc15 has a pretty high rms, I would only be feeding like a third of the rms wattage with the 1.3k at 2ohm(600) but the 1.8k would be 900..

Man, I hate not knowing enough about car audio!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

So much for not giving a woofer more than the manufacture recommends for power. Even you're suggesting that he do that, and in the same thread where you chastised me for it!
The fact of the matter is both the SA-15 and the FU 750 can handle up to 1400w rms clamped on some frequencies. I would never recommend he do that, but he'll only be giving it 1000 if he's careful with the gain. Less now that he's using a 1.3-1.5kw amp. And if he uses an amp that's bigger than he needs, he'll have room to upgrade and keep from clipping the signal. And lol at your little impedance curve remark as if the impedance is going to exceed nominal as any given time during music. He has stock electrical, he can't use more than half the power of that amp anyway... He would be fine. He might want to get batts and alts later.

And extra power is especially good for SQ so he has available power for transients

HDC3 is rated for 1500W and the Fu 750 is rated for.... 750W 750X2 = 1400.

At what frequencies can the SA 15 handle 1400W? Why would Jacob rate them for 600W? Again, are you willing to offer OP a warranty on this application? Do you know what impedance even is?

How many dB difference do you think there is between 1300 and 1800W? Worth possibly breaking subs or blowing up the amp or burning up an alternator?

 

[Anatreth]

HDC3 is rated for 1500W and the Fu 750 is rated for.... 750W 750X2 = 1400.
At what frequencies can the SA 15 handle 1400W? Why would Jacob rate them for 600W? Again, are you willing to offer OP a warranty on this application? Do you know what impedance even is?

How many dB difference do you think there is between 1300 and 1800W? Worth possibly breaking subs or blowing up the amp or burning up an alternator?

Ok, so here's a question I don't know the answer to.. should I be aiming for a 1 or 2 ohm dc on the hdc15? if I had the 1.3k, at 2ohm its only 600w. obviously at 1ohm its 1.3kw. the 1.8k would be better at 2 ohm for 900w, but again 1.8k at 1ohm mono. Which would be the better option? 1ohm runs colder for the amp than 2ohm, but uses more power yes? wouldn't under powering this sub that much be a problem too? I mean that 15 is like 1700w rms..

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Ok, so here's a question I don't know the answer to.. should I be aiming for a 1 or 2 ohm dc on the hdc15? if I had the 1.3k, at 2ohm its only 600w. obviously at 1ohm its 1.3kw. the 1.8k would be better at 2 ohm for 900w, but again 1.8k at 1ohm mono. Which would be the better option? 1ohm runs colder for the amp than 2ohm, but uses more power yes? wouldn't under powering this sub that much be a problem too? I mean that 15 is like 1700w rms..

Get the best amp you can. It's always better to have to much and back it off

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok, so here's a question I don't know the answer to.. should I be aiming for a 1 or 2 ohm dc on the hdc15? if I had the 1.3k, at 2ohm its only 600w. obviously at 1ohm its 1.3kw. the 1.8k would be better at 2 ohm for 900w, but again 1.8k at 1ohm mono. Which would be the better option? 1ohm runs colder for the amp than 2ohm, but uses more power yes? wouldn't under powering this sub that much be a problem too? I mean that 15 is like 1700w rms..

If "under powering" a woofer was bad you'd have to play it ONLY at max volume all the time.

The 2K amp run at 2 ohms would sound better and be more efficient (run cooler)... if you have the dough for the bigger amp. Keep in mind subs are dual coil so you'll want a dual 4 or dual 1 ohm to make 2 ohm for the amp or a dual 2 to make 1 ohm for the amp.

The SQ HDC3 15 is rated for 1500W. Personally I think that's a little bit optimistic but you'd have to try to break it with a 1500W amp and that's the level to which they warranty it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

bigger amps that are sitting back and doing very little work is a lot better than a smaller amp straining at higher power. 1 ohm final impedance is what you want to aim for. Get a D2 so you can wire down to 1 ohm. Dual voice coils have different wiring from single voice coils. make sure you know what series wiring, series/parallel and parallel wiring is.

You can put any amount of power on the sub and it'll still get decently loud as long as your box design is on point. Still go for the biggest amp you can comfortably get. You can easily CONTROL how much power/current your amp draws from your electrical system through monitoring VOLTAGE DROPS (as explained before) and gain settings. Dont sweat it too much, get it in first and you'll be able to measure how much of the amp you can utilize. You'll be future proof later on. As we all know, bass is worse than crack, once you get the bug.

 

[Anatreth]

bigger amps that are sitting back and doing very little work is a lot better than a smaller amp straining at higher power. 1 ohm final impedance is what you want to aim for. Get a D2 so you can wire down to 1 ohm. Dual voice coils have different wiring from single voice coils. make sure you know what series wiring, series/parallel and parallel wiring is.
You can put any amount of power on the sub and it'll still get decently loud as long as your box design is on point. Still go for the biggest amp you can comfortably get. You can easily CONTROL how much power/current your amp draws from your electrical system through monitoring VOLTAGE DROPS (as explained before) and gain settings. Dont sweat it too much, get it in first and you'll be able to measure how much of the amp you can utilize. You'll be future proof later on. As we all know, bass is worse than crack, once you get the bug.

The wiring side of it I'm not worried about, we deal with electrical at work so I'm comfortable with it. How it applies to car audio is new to me, which is why I ask. Rather ask and look dumb then just be dumb and assume I know it.

So I'm aiming at the hdc15 2ohm dc

1.8k twisted sounds

Wired in at 1 ohm, with 2/0 big three, 0ga amp cable. Probably with gain pretty well down due to electrical.

Pioneer Hu

Now, I assume the 2/0 should have a what.. 250A fuse in it?

I'm also eyeballing a second optima 35d, but that's in the future.

So, one of the questions I have where I've always been told that it's a good thing... a capacitor. 2 to 3 Farad.. before now I had no clue there was so much controversy about capacitors. What are your thoughts? Also, what little things might I be missing that I'll need for this?

Thank you all for the time/help that you have all given me, I do greatly appreciate it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Batteries over capacitors anyday.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Batteries and capacitors are band aids.

They both store power. Batteries store more. Caps release faster and charge faster but don't hold hardly anything. Talking about the standard round caps only. Once the release the very minuscule load they become a road block to the amplifier.

A good purpose made battery can release and charge pretty fast.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

HDC3 is rated for 1500W and the Fu 750 is rated for.... 750W 750X2 = 1400.
At what frequencies can the SA 15 handle 1400W? Why would Jacob rate them for 600W? Again, are you willing to offer OP a warranty on this application? Do you know what impedance even is?

How many dB difference do you think there is between 1300 and 1800W? Worth possibly breaking subs or blowing up the amp or burning up an alternator?

If you're going to wildly assert that the sa-15 was not meant to take over 600w, you're just going to lose credibility man. Jacob under rated them and it has been discussed ad nauseam. And I missed the post where OP said he was getting 2 FU 750's, if he did say that and that's where the 750x2 came from. Yeah I know what impedance is and how it differs from dc resistance and how it will pretty much never go below the nominal impedance rating of the sub on music. I think I made a mistake and said "exceed" but that was a mistake. Was probably thinking of the dangerous repercussions and current increasing and used the wrong descriptive term

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If you're going to wildly assert that the sa-15 was not meant to take over 600w, you're just going to lose credibility man. Jacob under rated them and it has been discussed ad nauseam. And I missed the post where OP said he was getting 2 FU 750's, if he did say that and that's where the 750x2 came from. Yeah I know what impedance is and how it differs from dc resistance and how it will pretty much never go below the nominal impedance rating of the sub on music. I think I made a mistake and said "exceed" but that was a mistake. Was probably thinking of the dangerous repercussions and current increasing and used the wrong descriptive term

Send a clamped 750 watt sine wave to a SA and it will smoke in 10 minutes.

They are not underrated.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

The wiring side of it I'm not worried about, we deal with electrical at work so I'm comfortable with it. How it applies to car audio is new to me, which is why I ask. Rather ask and look dumb then just be dumb and assume I know it. So I'm aiming at the hdc15 2ohm dc

1.8k twisted sounds

Wired in at 1 ohm, with 2/0 big three, 0ga amp cable. Probably with gain pretty well down due to electrical.

Pioneer Hu

Now, I assume the 2/0 should have a what.. 250A fuse in it?

I'm also eyeballing a second optima 35d, but that's in the future.

So, one of the questions I have where I've always been told that it's a good thing... a capacitor. 2 to 3 Farad.. before now I had no clue there was so much controversy about capacitors. What are your thoughts? Also, what little things might I be missing that I'll need for this?

Thank you all for the time/help that you have all given me, I do greatly appreciate it.

I'm not sure if you understand this fully or not, but I just have to make sure you know. Sorry if I'm insulting your intelligence. To get a 1 ohm load you will need to get the sub in dual 2 ohm. Parallel will divide impedance of the 2 coils by the number of coils (2) (=1ohm final) and series will add them together for 4 ohm.

Capacitors are basically an alternative to flushing money down the toilet, if that's your thing lol. They store a bit of power (worthlessly) and make none. Batteries do both in excess. You'll need to upgrade your alt or (preferably AND) get at least another battery. I use the optima 35d and I like it. If that's the size you need. There might be better but idk a whole lot about batts

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Send a clamped 750 watt sine wave to a SA and it will smoke in 10 minutes. They are not underrated.

You selling those HV165XL's any time soon? Haha just figured I'd ask. I'm looking for some

 

[Anatreth]

I'm not sure if you understand this fully or not, but I just have to make sure you know. Sorry if I'm insulting your intelligence. To get a 1 ohm load you will need to get the sub in dual 2 ohm. Parallel will divide impedance of the 2 coils by the number of coils (2) (=1ohm final) and series will add them together for 4 ohm.
Capacitors are basically an alternative to flushing money down the toilet, if that's your thing lol. They store a bit of power (worthlessly) and make none. Batteries do both in excess. You'll need to upgrade your alt or (preferably AND) get at least another battery. I use the optima 35d and I like it. If that's the size you need. There might be better but idk a whole lot about batts

I understand dual coils dropping to half resistance ;P Like I said, I would rather look dumb and ask to verify compared to be dumb and assume.

I need to investigate the alt option, which I haven't had the time to do. They don't make an upgraded alt for my car, so it has to be custom made. A second battery kit is on the table as well, I just have to figure out where i'm going to put it. I already have one yellow top, but there's no room in the engine for a second... so i'll have to squeeze it into the trunk and run wiring for it.

And the cap question, like I said, I had no clue was such a debated topic. When I got my last box(years ago) caps were the rule, not the debate.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I understand dual coils dropping to half resistance ;P Like I said, I would rather look dumb and ask to verify compared to be dumb and assume.
I need to investigate the alt option, which I haven't had the time to do. They don't make an upgraded alt for my car, so it has to be custom made. A second battery kit is on the table as well, I just have to figure out where i'm going to put it. I already have one yellow top, but there's no room in the engine for a second... so i'll have to squeeze it into the trunk and run wiring for it.

And the cap question, like I said, I had no clue was such a debated topic. When I got my last box(years ago) caps were the rule, not the debate.

Google singer alternators.