New to forums questions about audio setup!

[Anatreth]

you are never getting the full power out of any amp. Read up on box rise/impedance rise. You'll end up at 2 ohms or so when wired to 1 ohm after rise. Its not that its the amp, its just physics. Thats why you have plenty of people claiming they run twice the power to a single sub, once you do an actual clamp test to see what kind of power you are actually getting, its usually way less due to box rise.

Set the gain properly for clean power and the sub can handle it fine. Its better than having a sub-par amp that requires you to turn it up a lot to get decent sound output and get overstressed/hot due to being pushed along with risking clipping the signal from wanting to push it harder without proper headroom of power from the amp.

You have a big amp that sits on its @ss all day barely lifting a finger, stays cool and efficient and lasts a long time. Vs a small amp trying to put out 100% effort every day, gets warm/hot easily.

Still for your setup, a 1200 ish amp should be fine but more power can never hurt when used responsibly.

Then would you recommend the 1.8? or drop down to the 1.3k ?

 

[MrFoca]

Hit up Chris AKA stang and have him help if you need a box made. He has excellent communication throughout the build and after its been shipped.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

Then would you recommend the 1.8? or drop down to the 1.3k ?

The 1.8. These FU 750 subs, as well as the sa-15 which is generally inferior, can take 1.4kw CLAMPED, as I explained to you before in a post several pages back. I also explained how with impedance rise you'll usually be getting half power of what your amp is rated for anyway. So you could technically be okay even with a 2.8kw amp on certain frequencies for short listening periods. Definitely get the 1.8kw. Plus, extra headroom means you can play at your preferred listening level with less or no clipping compared to an amp that just barely gets you there, protecting your subs in the long run. BTW, 2 ohm dvc means you can wire them in parallel to 1 ohm nominal or series to 4 ohm nominal. Wire to 1 ohm, your amp will only be seeing like 2 ohms when playing music and the sub will see like 1kw. If anything you'd be underpowering it haha. It's better than a 1.3kw amp though and since you have stock alternator you probably should stay under 2kw. The 1.8k is def what you should get

Unless you can build the box, get cscstang to do it. Very good guy. Make sure to request a vertical dowel and double baffle

TBH there is not going to be much of a difference between the 1.3 and 1.8 but the 1.8 would be better

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Then would you recommend the 1.8? or drop down to the 1.3k ?

considering the twisted sounds 1.3k is actually more like a 1.5k amp and the 1.8k is a 2k+ amp, i'd say the 1.3k should be fine. A well designed box should offset most of your power needs.

 

[CSCStang]

So, i'm confused then. What you are pretty much indicating is that there is no way to fit a "proper" box in the trunk of a car then. So from what you say, there should never be 2 12's in a cars trunk due to box size limitations.The previous box I had was big, and fit. However, there is no way in hell i'm fitting a box that's 1.75x it's size.. unless it's built in the trunk.

I can hook you up with a tline for 2 hds208's that will blow you away. Box is 29.5x21.75x12. Pm me if you need a box built.

 

[Anatreth]

I can hook you up with a tline for 2 hds208's that will blow you away. Box is 29.5x21.75x12. Pm me if you need a box built.

I think I might stick with the single 15 route, but am more than happy to pm you once I can. I haven't done it yet due to lack of measurements(car is in the shop)

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

due to mechanical or thermal failure? it wasn't hard to make the coil smell on a single hds315 with a taramps hd3000 but giving it a hard clip from a powerbass 1000.1dx its nearly impossible to get it stinky lol
it seems to hesitate on low lows so maybe thats what you mean? it doesnt have massive excursion

I've seen a few different reports of them slinky-ing the coils at less than rated power. Just cheap Chinese coil/glue. IMO mechanical issues is almost always user error, either not using subsonic or not tuning properly for the response they want.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The 1.8. These FU 750 subs, as well as the sa-15 which is generally inferior, can take 1.4kw CLAMPED, as I explained to you before in a post several pages back. I also explained how with impedance rise you'll usually be getting half power of what your amp is rated for anyway. So you could technically be okay even with a 2.8kw amp on certain frequencies for short listening periods. Definitely get the 1.8kw. Plus, extra headroom means you can play at your preferred listening level with less or no clipping compared to an amp that just barely gets you there, protecting your subs in the long run. BTW, 2 ohm dvc means you can wire them in parallel to 1 ohm nominal or series to 4 ohm nominal. Wire to 1 ohm, your amp will only be seeing like 2 ohms when playing music and the sub will see like 1kw. If anything you'd be underpowering it haha. It's better than a 1.3kw amp though and since you have stock alternator you probably should stay under 2kw. The 1.8k is def what you should get
Unless you can build the box, get cscstang to do it. Very good guy. Make sure to request a vertical dowel and double baffle

TBH there is not going to be much of a difference between the 1.3 and 1.8 but the 1.8 would be better

So you've already built the box, installed it in his car, and KNOW what impedance his amp is going to see at any given frequency AND you know his listening habits well enough to know how well things will hold up. And I suspect you're an authorized dealer for the brands he's using and will handle any warranty claim for him when he starts using his equipment in a manner inconsistent with manufacturer specifications.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

So you've already built the box, installed it in his car, and KNOW what impedance his amp is going to see at any given frequency AND you know his listening habits well enough to know how well things will hold up. And I suspect you're an authorized dealer for the brands he's using and will handle any warranty claim for him when he starts using his equipment in a manner inconsistent with manufacturer specifications.

I took the fact that he has stock electrical into account. He'd be fine with 1.8k. 900 watts or so after imp rise not a whole lot of power for a sub like that man

 

[Anatreth]

I took the fact that he has stock electrical into account. He'd be fine with 1.8k. 900 watts or so after imp rise not a whole lot of power for a sub like that man

For a correction there, it's not a stock alternator. The stock one for these is 95A. Mine is 115A. Granted, not that much of an increase.. but an increase none the less.

The big three has been ordered, and will be done when system gets installed. Pretty sure the amp power will be 0ga as well.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

For a correction there, it's not a stock alternator. The stock one for these is 95A. Mine is 115A. Granted, not that much of an increase.. but an increase none the less.The big three has been ordered, and will be done when system gets installed. Pretty sure the amp power will be 0ga as well.

By stock electrical I just assumed 140 amp and under

 

[Anatreth]

By stock electrical I just assumed 140 amp and under

Yeah, the STi are stock 95. the WRX and imprezza's are both 85 lol

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I think I might stick with the single 15 route, but am more than happy to pm you once I can. I haven't done it yet due to lack of measurements(car is in the shop)

this is what his two 8s in a T-line can do with less than 400 watts total. They can handle more.

 

[Anatreth]

this is what his two 8s in a T-line can do with less than 400 watts total. They can handle more.

?? I assume you meant to have a link there somewhere?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

?? I assume you meant to have a link there somewhere?

whoops

https://vid.me/DIQz