New Front Stage Driver Placement

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Doxquzme
Premium Member

Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5T
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Boise, ID
Getting ready to swap some drivers and put in mew 2" dome mids.

Tweeters: CDT ES 1200is (3500-25kz)

CDT Audio ES-1200iS

Midrange: Sony 203s 2" Dome mid 500 hz to 3500 khz

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-183269-Infinity-Kappa-203S.html
Misbass: CDT HD-M - 70 to 500 hz

CDT Audio HD-M6

I've kinda hung them in place and it seems to sound pretty decent.

Placement as follows:

1705269756246.png


The bottom spacing is about 5" for midbass to mid, mid to tweeter is about 12" on center. My reason for the ask is on the tweeter angle off-on/axis.

I've ordered some new replacement retainers for the tweeters and have no issue mounting the Si's in the same location. What I'm wondering is it really worth it to me to build that location out so that the tweeters are aimed about at the acoustical center between the seats or can I just flush mount them at a 90 degree angle to the side of the car as is the OEM tweeter.

If I need to, I can do either, but alas, one is MUCH more work than the other and want to know if the effort is worth it.

Thoughts?
 
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  1. Not right now
I don't have an answer to your question, but since you brought up the distance from mid to tweeter, what is the father you want that to be? I'm always curious as my tweeters in dash are a long way from my mids in lower door. Wondering if that's why it's so hard to get agood sound stage in my car.
 
I think that's the last place I'd put the midrange. I'd consider the kick panel location or dash/sail panel.
Something like this maybe?

1705277411271.png


I think I could make this work... Angle both towards the center just aft of center between the seats, on axis-ish...
 
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Ever contemplate using these kind of pods?

View attachment 56153

At this point, I think I'm going to build out the OEM location for the tweeters using the offset surface mounts that came with the CDT tweeters. They usually for mounting on the rear package tray, but if I glass them to the OEM location, sideways, would put them at almost the perfect on axis angle. I would then get pods like these or maybe that german company that makes them to order, an mounthm on the dash directly to the right, horizontally, angled the same as the tweeters, seems to be what I've settled on. It would aim both, on a horizontal plain, almost perfectly at the center headrest area right between the seats and would avoid reflections from the windshield, almost perfect. Like this but with the centers of the drivers on an equal line across (and at the same angle, in the sail panel)

1705376224380.png


That way all I need is the midrange pod and to build out the sail panel, should work out well. ALmost like this, but the tweeters in the sail location and a pod for the mids, about an inch apartm much closer than this but similar alignment.

1705376711789.png
 
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I would then get pods like these or maybe that german company that makes them to order, an mounthm on the dash directly to the right, horizontally, angled the same as the tweeters, seems to be what I've settled on
I see. That tandem mounted set is what piques my interest. The more I ogle them the more luxurious they seem. For that, I would have to upgrade to 3 way front stage like you did.
On another note, are you going passive or active? If going active, how much overlap are you setting between midbass/midrange and midrange/tweeter?
 
Fully active up front, active in the rear fill, delayed 25 milliseconds if I end up just using the rear door locations for fill at 200 to 3000. I have both the 6"x9" woofer version of front CDT's to operate that half. If not I have the same midbass/tweeter coaxial version CDT too. If I end up using the Coaxials, will run the rears active /passive as i would be short one channel to run two-way in the back too.

Not sure yet on the crossovers, thinking around 500 hz 12 db on the midbass 500 to 3.5 khz,18-24 db on the mids and 12db at 3.5 khz on the tweeters. Hoping the differing slopes help blend without screwing up the stage. I'm still learning the ropes as fas the use of the DM810, and with the weather at 0 this morning, going to probably be a bit before I can actually set in the car and set them up temporarily and test... Used to think how great it would be to be able to manipulate actively, do with the home speaker's, while the application of sound theory is the same, the cabin and speakers locations really changes everything. Just when i thought i was getting ahead of the learning curve, ha!

Just got this baby in today, can't wait until the thaw comes in spring.

1705380934322.png


A little overkill for mids and tweets, the thing is brand new and the price was really good! Could not believe how heavy it is, built like a tank(like 12-15 lbs). Sides are solid 5/16" billet anodized black aluminum just gorgeous! Now, what to do with the Helix B Four... I feel and Ad coming soon!
 
Not sure yet on the crossovers, thinking around 500 hz 12 db on the midbass 500 to 3.5 khz,18-24 db on the mids and 12db at 3.5 khz on the tweeters.
So no magic recipe one size fits all. Makes sense since all speakers have their individual signature sound even if designed similarly. I wonder if an overlap may cause too bright of a spectrum/band that will be hard to subdue. Next thing I know I will be like that guy that had to snug a rolled towel between his drivers seat and the center console to subdue a resonance at about 700 Hertz.
Used to think how great it would be to be able to manipulate actively, do with the home speaker's, while the application of sound theory is the same, the cabin and speakers locations really changes everything. Just when i thought i was getting ahead of the learning curve, ha!
Yes, 100%. But as I have scrutinized tuning technical articles over time, I think it better to let the smart ones design the passives and use those instead.
A little overkill for mids and tweets, the thing is brand new and the price was really good! Could not believe how heavy it is, built like a tank(like 12-15 lbs). Sides are solid 5/16" billet anodized black aluminum just gorgeous!
That is so niiice! It gots me looking around the house like a crackhead seeing what I can sell to get a hit. What I really should do is run through all my amps one more time then start setting them free. That would allay the guilt of getting one more amp... or two.
 
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Doxquzme

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Current build, 2012 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5T
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