2000 Camry Build

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

The HO alternator is going to provide extra current, not storage. Using a large AGM under the hood and Li-on in the rear would be the place to start. Something like this:

Amazon product ASIN B08LQ27L6Y
Has all the distribution connections you;ll need, awesome addition to any high powered system. You might not even need an upgrade to the Alt, with a good Li-oN setup in the rear. As for speakers, bail the rear deck as having powerful subs in the trunk means you have to isolate the rear deck speakers and there's no real benefit if you are using the rear doors for fill anyway. I would consider an 6 channel DSP amp like the Helix, Sony or AudioControl units for amplification.

Something like this:

AudioControl LC-6.1200 6-Channel 125W RMS Class D Car Stereo Amplifier Brand New 851523007201 | eBay

Class-D Full Range 2-Ohm Stable 6-Channel Amplifier. 3-way protection circuitry (thermal, overload, and speaker short protection). Variable low-pass filter: 500 - 5,000 Hz. Variable high-pass filter: 30 - 300 Hz.

www.ebay.com

125x6, drive front 6.5's and tweeters with 4 channels, a pair of coaxials on passive in the rear doors then the sub out to your HCCA bass amplifiers.

If you want volume and SQ, check out the Stevens line of midbass and coaxials to foot the bill, For the money the SB acoustics are really, really good.

These up front in the doors:

SB Acoustics SB17NRX2C35-4 6" Woofer, paper cone, new version, 4 ohm

SB Acoustics SB17NRX2C35-4 6" Woofer, paper cone, new version, 4 ohm

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

in the upper door or A pillars:

SB Acoustics SB14ST-C000-4 1" Tweeter w/grille- 4 ohm

SB Acoustics SB14ST-C000-4 1" Tweeter w/grille- 4 ohm

www.madisoundspeakerstore.com

For the rear:

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...cr25-4-coax-6-paper-cone-coaxial-4-ohm-round/

The tweeter leads are exposed and you should run a 12db Butterworth alignment xover at 2600 hz. Here are the values for that inline crossover to the tweeter:
C1 = 10.82 uF
L1 = 0.35 mH

Skip the 12db on the 6.5 as you'll run them off a HP filter from the amplifiers DSP and the fronts will be fully active DSP. the rears can roll off naturally or you can use a .24 coil (6db slope), all of these are pretty small and easily acquired. I have all of these parts laying around should you go that route, I'm unloading inventory at postage plus the cost of a latte!

 

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

This build is going to be a big learning experience for me. I have never really put much effort into the SQ part of it but will this time. I have always just set the EQ in the head unit and adjusted the amp's crossover to keep a lot of bass from coming out of the door speakers. Usually sounds fairly good. But this time I will see if any car audio dealerships can help me with setting it all up. I'm not gonna buy all the equipment for setting the crossover points and overlap etc... About all I can do myself is set gains. I have been using an oscilloscope to do so.

As far as the door speakers, I'm not totally set on using orion branded units. As long as the price is about right I'll go with another brand so long as they are good quality.

these are a friggin steal at $99 a set which is around $150 off regular price, get them for the front and rear doors at this price! Couple of others here have jumped on them as well, they are a great product at a very reasonable price.

Pioneer TS-Z65C 6.5" Component Speaker System 300 Watts Max RB | eBay

1-1/8" aluminum tweeter. 6-1/2" Twaron fiber woofer with butyl rubber surround. Tweeter Composition Aluminum. Woofer Composition Twaron. Woofer Surround ---. handles up to 100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power).

www.ebay.com

Especially if you plan to have them tuned, very fast, articulate.

 

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[djdilliodon!]

Are you going for SQ or SQL (sound quality with spl)? Are you looking to put speakers in factory locations or are you willing to possibly do enclosures on the doors (stacked baffles or fiberglassed)? What budget are we working with here say for speakers? What’s going to be the sub setup and how much power?

 

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

These components any good?

FZ6V2 - 6.5" 200 Watts RMS Component Kit Speakers

6.5" Component Pair / 200 Watts RMS / 400 Watts MAX

www.massiveaudio.com

The last set of Massive components I ran the tweeters cooked and the Xovers melted approx.45 rms under rated. Ran some 6.5 mids and they did fine but sounded like azz, so those went in the rear doors on lower rms power.Tried to send in for a return for Warranty and and was told I ran too much power to them when I had pics of the Autotek Mean Machine 66HC sent as well as the entire amp set up. They still denied my warranty and lost my $ upon return. Shittty Customer service and Bull Shittt Non-valid Warranty. They never sent those back. Massive =s Trashive in my books. I ended up with a set of Cheap Polk DB 6.5 components until I purchased the MM series of Polk and both were far more superb than the two massive sets I had at the time. If you want some components that will take 150 rms on up.. you going have to look hard and spend some funds or build your own from raw drivers and look also look for some xovers that will take that power if wanting to run passive.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You deff. need to do some door treatments and place your speakers in the proper locations to serve any justice with power even. If you dont, its pretty much worthless, and half azzed. Door panels are off, might as well seal those jokers up and use 1/4" ABS plastic to cover the door cavities that need to be accessed in the future for serviced and fatmat dynamat? or whatever you use on top of that and run a bead of silicone around to seal it off. that way all you have to do is use a box knife to cut through the silicone and unscrew the ABS sheet and access your window motor or door latch assembly. Trust me. if you dont.. you'll be cursing yourself the whole time trying to remove the Dynamat or fatmat or? you put on there.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

these are a friggin steal at $99 a set which is around $150 off regular price, get them for the front and rear doors at this price! Couple of others here have jumped on them as well, they are a great product at a very reasonable price.

Pioneer TS-Z65C 6.5" Component Speaker System 300 Watts Max RB | eBay

1-1/8" aluminum tweeter. 6-1/2" Twaron fiber woofer with butyl rubber surround. Tweeter Composition Aluminum. Woofer Composition Twaron. Woofer Surround ---. handles up to 100 watts RMS (300 watts peak power).

www.ebay.com

Especially if you plan to have them tuned, very fast, articulate.

I can vouch for the Pioneer speakers. They sound great for the money! I was impressed and thinking about getting another set before they run out or the price goes up. Excellent shipping, double boxed and the speakers are very well packed. I would recommend getting a set of plastic baffles to put in the doors(Not the foam ones/garbage) for any speakers you place inside the door cavity to get better sound out of them rather than the inside door cavity space. such as these. worth every penny.

Xscorpion USP-5465 Univeral 5-1/4â & 6-1/2 Car Speaker Protector Baffle | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Xscorpion USP-5465 Univeral 5-1/4” & 6-1/2 Car Speaker Protector Baffle at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Amazon product ASIN B071G8K9SK

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Infinity Kappa 60csx 6.5 Inch 2-way Car Audio Component Speakers System 100w RMS 50667373221 | eBay

6.5" Kappa Series 2-Way Component System. RMS: 200W per set / 100W each side. Glass fiber Plus One woofer cone. Oversized 1-3/16" voice coil. Frequency Response: 45 - 35000 Hz. Burnt voice coils. Low-impedance design maximizes power from your stereo or amplifier.

www.ebay.com

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

To run 3k on sub stage an a 100x2 or 150x2 ? I highly recommend the Big 3,HO alt, and the largest AGM you can fit under the hood and largest AGM you can afford in the rear and grounded to the rear car frame or Axle