Need opinion on good 3000+ amp

[djdilliodon!]

I have had us amps 1000 and 2000x’s, Us amps VLX, and even the TU (Tube series). I have also had the Phoenix Gold MS series (my fav one was the MS1000). Had amps from xtant, zapco, and many others from the high end back in day. I also had lower end amps like the DEI 1100d’s, cadence, and others. Now I have had my hands on the newer stuff like taramps and skar and have been playing around with others while building subs for others and hearing the setups when I can. For me, I can hear a difference when on highs and mids but not so much on subs. For amp power for subwoofers what counts most to me is price, efficiency, and power.

 

[Buck]

The amps I’ve owned with a high damping factor tend to be more tolerant to abuse and hold up better. There could be no correlation, could be a coincidence or just could be because amps with higher damping factors tend to be built with better components.

I’ve noticed this, as well. That’s part of what I mean by more extreme situations. Not saying it’s always this way, just saying with music that it seems to be a factor with how many common car audio amps are made, IMO.

 

[Bobbytwonames]

S/N ratio isn’t the be-all and end-all either. Company A can have a higher S/N ratio than Company B on a spec sheet but if they were rated the exact same way, Company B could be higher.

The amps I’ve owned with a high damping factor tend to be more tolerant to abuse and hold up better. There could be no correlation, could be a coincidence or just could be because amps with higher damping factors tend to be built with better components.

The amps that I've had lately with a higher S/N ratio have been better performers for me. Look at the SFB3K and the SIA3500 for example. I've never even looked at damping factor. I see Bicko is back to kissing your azz after you called him on his damping factor shit. Good for him.

 

[Bobbytwonames]

I’ve noticed this, as well. That’s part of what I mean by more extreme situations. Not saying it’s always this way, just saying with music that it seems to be a factor with how many common car audio amps are made, IMO.

Don't try to baby face it now. You were just now calling him names and everything else. You are pathetic bro. Go look up some more pics of Hunter's dikk to add to your Jakk stack.

 

[Bobbytwonames]

S/N ratio isn’t the be-all and end-all either. Company A can have a higher S/N ratio than Company B on a spec sheet but if they were rated the exact same way, Company B could be higher.

The amps I’ve owned with a high damping factor tend to be more tolerant to abuse and hold up better. There could be no correlation, could be a coincidence or just could be because amps with higher damping factors tend to be built with better components.

Nothing will ever be the end all be all when picking out an amp or subs. I can find a way to shit on any one particular rating when picking something out. Rather than shitting on everybody's reply why don't you tell us how you pick an amp out?

 

[Bobbytwonames]

I’ve noticed this, as well. That’s part of what I mean by more extreme situations. Not saying it’s always this way, just saying with music that it seems to be a factor with how many common car audio amps are made, IMO.

And what the fukk are more extreme situations? Please explain yourself Hunter sucker.

 

[hispls]

Would you have even researched that if I hadn’t said it?

That has been in the Zed manuals since 2005 and "damping factor" and "0.00X% thd" or "sensitivity" ratings published on loudspeakers. These have been a marketing hype meme in the industry since before you were born. I read the manual carefully around then, and read it a few more times taking notes of type-o's and punctuation errors for Stephen, and I have read it since to refresh my memory on those topics as needed.

Yes, I feel better for sharing useful information in the hopes of dispelling myths and hype, and no, you don't know more about amplifiers than Stephen Mantz. You should probably just admit that you really don't understand this stuff and that you were wrong instead of flying off the rails when presented with information which disproves something you have said.

Full bridge and half bridge amps work differently, especially with the power supplies, and you can see that in the damping factor,

Can you explain what it is about those different designs that change output impedance of those different types of amps?

 

[Clifff150]

Nothing will ever be the end all be all when picking out an amp or subs. I can find a way to shit on any one particular rating when picking something out. Rather than shitting on everybody's reply why don't you tell us how you pick an amp out?

Please tell me, how did I shit on your reply?

S/N ratio is a spec to look at yes but it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer on how they actually come up with their number.

I am a fan of half bridge amps so I start there and then stick to reputable brands and research them. There’s not one specific factor I look at when purchasing. I do check out Big D’s dyno’s as well but that’s mostly for his opinion on build quality and amp guts.

 

[Buck]

That has been in the Zed manuals since 2005 and "damping factor" and "0.00X% thd" or "sensitivity" ratings published on loudspeakers. These have been a marketing hype meme in the industry since before you were born. I read the manual carefully around then, and read it a few more times taking notes of type-o's and punctuation errors for Stephen, and I have read it since to refresh my memory on those topics as needed.

Yes, I feel better for sharing useful information in the hopes of dispelling myths and hype, and no, you don't know more about amplifiers than Stephen Mantz. You should probably just admit that you really don't understand this stuff and that you were wrong instead of flying off the rails when presented with information which disproves something you have said.



Can you explain what it is about those different designs that change output impedance of those different types of amps?

How low do you play? And does playing under tuning count here? I’ve tested this in real life with sub amps. I wanna see a .5 ohm test on a 4” 4500w coil woofer with a 800 gram Mms and 40+ mm of xmax. Then I’ll listen. I think xmax and low frequency changes that equation, because I’ve literally talked to dozens of customers about it, and done my own study. It’s a fascinating subject to me. Like I say, I’m not saying it’s the end all be all, nor am I wrong about the technical way I explained it, because you can power a lightbulb with a sub, for example. Be nice so we can all learn more.

 

[hispls]

I wanna see a .5 ohm test

If you feel that damping factor is even remotely important why would you even consider .5 ohm?

 

[Buck]

You can’t tell me nicer and more expensive sub amps don’t have a higher damping factor, because I’ve studied it for 10+ years, literally. That’s a real thing.

 

[Buck]

If you feel that damping factor is even remotely important why would you even consider .5 ohm?

Amps with higher damping factor, from my experience, are more likely to play better and not to fail in that circumstance, so you can get more power, duh

 

[Buck]

I have some customers that run extreme walls with 10k, 15k+ and none of them that I know use full bridge, because the half bridge amps seem to deliver more power across a wider bandwidth and can be ran harder. This is just from asking my customers in real world, like hard-pounding and massive systems, where each woofer is seeing 3000w+.

Except for one, but that’s SPL more than music, and it’s a custom made 60,000w or something ridiculous like that full bridge.

 

[hispls]

Amps with higher damping factor, from my experience, are more likely to play better and not to fail in that circumstance, so you can get more power, duh ❤

So you still don't understand what any of this means, didn't bother to even learn what it means, and are just going to ignore the questions, post random non sequitors and double down.

Can you explain what part of full bridge designs effects output impedance and why, if damping factor is important to you, you would even consider .5 ohm?

 

[Buck]

So you still don't understand what any of this means, didn't bother to even learn what it means, and are just going to ignore the questions, post random non sequitors and double down.

Can you explain what part of full bridge designs effects output impedance and why, if damping factor is important to you, you would even consider .5 ohm?

A half bridge is 2 polarized full bridges iirc (why they’re so much bigger than full bridge), which allows both + and - charging of each board, and each board seems to be able to balance itself out through the power supply by dumping or pulling in evergy back into both polarities of the 12v. Full bridge amps have a more loop type power supply, where energy can only be pulled in via the + and exit via the -, so it seems full bridge amps can’t use the the 12v electrical system as well to balance out spikes/dips of voltage internally as well as a half bridge design. Full bridge is 1 board and doesn’t process the energy internally in the same fashion. Half bridges are able to seemingly balance out both + and - polarity boards independently of each other using your 12v system, IMO, and that’s higher damping. And this conclusion only applies to class D sub amps. Frequency totally matters with damping factor.