need information about this old school sub DD99Za-D2 18"

[shredder2]

Dowel top to bottom and one at least front to rear (largest panels)... sides probably will be ok

I personally would 45 the port bend but it'll shorten the port length a bit if you do. If you do, just keep the port width uniform throughout.

 

[patatewz]

thanks for advice.

i dont know ohm of my sub i know its a d2 coil. i will check it with my meter.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If you need to add bracing to an existing box you can always drill and add like all thread rod with washers without tearing the box back apart.

 

[patatewz]

good tips!!

 

[patatewz]

someone on the internet tell me if i use two yellow top batteries one in front and one in back and if i connect a big amp like 5000w at the back, my alternator on front will be protect from big surge draw its correct?

i will use one 0 gauge between the 2 12v+ and a other 0 gauge between the 2 12v-.  and connect my amp at 12v+ in the back and connet the amp 12v- at the body of my car.

do i need to ground the 12v- from the backp battery to my car body too?

thanks!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

do i need to ground the 12v- from the backp battery to my car body too?

Absolutely.   Of course I wouldn't want to bet the cost of slagging the converter in your car on any auxiliary batteries "protecting" whatever it is that is limiting 100A out.   Anything you discharge (batteries or caps) will also need to be charged and may try to draw pretty hard.

I mean it seems like it should work, throwing a nice 110AH AGM on there for a little more reserve but I'd try to confirm with someone who has done more work with one of those cars before you go hurting something.

I was going to suggest Zed Minotaur for the sub if you had 2 ohm load.   I rarely opened 80A fuses on mine and they made about 55V

Consider Taramps Bass 1200.1 (Confirm your sub is dual 2 ohm and if it is make sure you get the 1 ohm stable version of the Taramps).  Supposedly max current draw on those is 110A and it's incredibly unlikely you would ever see that real-world.

How's that box coming along? Pics?  That Z is such a good score.

 

[patatewz]

4000$ the dc dc converter... so i need to be very cauttionus

i glued and srewed the box tonigh. tomorow i will make the hole and add the carpeting.

im not realy sure it will fit in the trunk too  i think it will be necesary to remove my wiper motor in the backp to keep my rear seat and close the trunk... i will send you picture and the end of the day.

thanks a lot again.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

4000$ the dc dc converter... so i need to be very cauttionus

Here's another thought, buy yourself one of those Soundigital high voltage 100KW amps and use it directly to your 400V battery.   That'll get you loud and you can leave out the silly converter entirely.

 

[patatewz]

not possible because the 400v is not accesible. nissan block the hight voltage for safety by firmware.

 

[patatewz]

24000w/h 400v 150amp its big juice

 

[patatewz]

my motor its a little 80000w

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

my motor its a little 80000w

So actually less than those Brazilian high voltage amps.  LOL.  Not like you'd use even 1/5th of that power for more than a few seconds on a burp and yes, high voltage is very scary!    Just throwing it out there since you seem to be a ready-fire-aim kind of guy.

Good luck getting that box finished and actually crammed in the trunk today.

 

[patatewz]

to much to do today so i only finish to screw and glue the last panel.  and i work for the rest of the week. maybe try to make the big hole after work tomorow. slowly but its fun to take time  i keep you updatated.

 

[patatewz]

it fit!!!!

 

[patatewz]

upside down maybe?