my sub pushes all the way out...help!

[XSlappinAzzX]

ok so im not sure how to explain this but ill try.
soon as my amp turns on my subs extends itself outward as much as it can and holds itself there. it will play music will like this and sound just fine. but as soon as i turn the system off it goes back to its regular resting spot. i dont know whats happening or if its suppost to do this but im guessing its not. it makes a weird squelch type of sound right when i turn it on/off also. what is this??????

Your sub is just getting a boner everytime is sees you

 

[kbmukdk2316 10+ year member]

you should have ch 1 & 2 bridged going to one coil, and then ch 3 & 4 bridged going to the other coil, that should be the only way I see this working.

when you say coil i assume your talking about the voice coils? there for i also assume your talk about ch. 1&2 being bridged to the 1st voice coil and ch. 3&4 being bridged to the second voice coil. im going to assume again that your talking about a dual voice coil sub?

i only have a single voice coil sub and i have all four channels bridged to the only terminal on my sub.

im starting to think this whole thing is just a ground issue so im gunna relocate the grounds for my amp and for the head unit and see where that gets me.

 

[RidinSwangaz 10+ year member]

Marine speaker? Seriously?

 

[kbmukdk2316 10+ year member]

if you have a single voice coil sub you can only have either a single channel going to it "A" or you could have "A & B" Bridged to it, giving the sub more power... your application seems to be the problem here, not the amp, nor ground. one sub, one coil, one speaker wire going to either one channel or a pr of bridged channels. if I read you right, you are the flaw.

i am not denying i could have done something incorrectly what so ever.

LOL! Then undo 2 of the channels. That is not how this stuff works. This has nothing to do with the age of the amplifier and everything to do with you having no idea what you're doing. Everyone is trying to help you so listen. Quit dicking with your grounds for right now and unhook 2 of the channels from the sub. You cannot bridge 4 channels together!!! If you really did that, you most likely would have fried your amplifier, but somehow maybe you've gotten lucky and it has survived. Since that seems to be the case, only bridge the fronts to the sub or the rear.... whichever you connected your rcas to.Next, checking your grounds and making it better will get rid of engine whine and turn on pop.

ok i understand im new to this and yall aint. so ill listen. when i first installed the system i used only one channel. thats when i had the on/off squelch that lasted for several seconds. then i bridged 4 channels thats when i had the sub thump on/off and the cone extend. after posting on here i have switched to only the front channels bridged just 2 channels. now i have the same thump and cone extension just not as bad prolly like half as much. i have gone back to only one channel and same thing as before several second turn on/off squelch and nothing has changed. throughout all of these configurations my amp and system seem perfectly fine plays music even with all 4 channels bridged or just 2 turns on and off everything is perfectly peachy. just this turn on/off problem. you say quit dicking with my grounds bc that will only solve engine whine(which im not so concerned with right now) and turn on pop, if you read this whole thing you'll see that the issue from the beginning is the "turn on pop" so shouldn't i actually be focusing on ground to eliminate turn on pop bc as ive described that is the whole problem!

Your sub is just getting a boner everytime is sees you

lol best answer yet lmao

Marine speaker? Seriously?

marine speaker? yes, from what ive read on it its the exact same as regular non marine just water resistant

oh and btw i didnt choose it i got my entire system as a package for $100 ( head unit,amp,sub,2 6x9's, and 2 5.25's ) so i didnt think it was that bad.

but just to be sure i will try a diff sub and see if i have the same issue, maybe it is just bc its marine???

 

[ahole-ic]

ok i understand im new to this and yall aint. so ill listen. when i first installed the system i used only one channel. thats when i had the on/off squelch that lasted for several seconds. then i bridged 4 channels thats when i had the sub thump on/off and the cone extend. after posting on here i have switched to only the front channels bridged just 2 channels. now i have the same thump and cone extension just not as bad prolly like half as much. i have gone back to only one channel and same thing as before several second turn on/off squelch and nothing has changed. throughout all of these configurations my amp and system seem perfectly fine plays music even with all 4 channels bridged or just 2 turns on and off everything is perfectly peachy. just this turn on/off problem. you say quit dicking with my grounds bc that will only solve engine whine(which im not so concerned with right now) and turn on pop, if you read this whole thing you'll see that the issue from the beginning is the "turn on pop" so shouldn't i actually be focusing on ground to eliminate turn on pop bc as ive described that is the whole problem!

No. If the cone is extending then it looks like your rca's are messed up and shorted to something or shorted on the inside. I would replace them. they are connected to dc somehow.

 

[RidinSwangaz 10+ year member]

marine speaker? yes, from what ive read on it its the exact same as regular non marine just water resistant

oh and btw i didnt choose it i got my entire system as a package for $100 ( head unit,amp,sub,2 6x9's, and 2 5.25's ) so i didnt think it was that bad.

but just to be sure i will try a diff sub and see if i have the same issue, maybe it is just bc its marine???

Not at all, But some of these guy's are talking out their *** to you, Just guessing, But your best bet would be to just buy a little monoblock & call it quits, Or just take some advice on a different setup, If that's an option, I would just go there.

 

[BlactimusCrime 10+ year member]

you have dc power to your sub. simple as that

/thread

 

[CRXBMPN 5,000+ posts]

we need to dissect each potential problem, find an answer/solution and go from there.

you need to correctly run your amp to your sub, that is a good start. when that is done and the problem still happens, well now we can continue on with the troubleshooting...

good luck and i'm headed out of work! woot!

rca's and grounds... or maybe the amp sheot the bed due to the odd things happening to it lol idk

 

[kbmukdk2316 10+ year member]

No. If the cone is extending then it looks like your rca's are messed up and shorted to something or shorted on the inside. I would replace them. they are connected to dc somehow.

i will try getting a new pair soon as i can.

but just a thought, if the RCA's were the issue which i was thinking they were yesterday wouldnt unplugging them from the amp and turning on the system and the same thing happening rule them out? i mean obviously there was no input but i wanted to see if this was like a problem from the head unit or the rcas themselfs so all i did was unplug them from the amp and as soon as the amp turned on i had the exact same problem the thump and the cone extending. what do you think?

Not at all, But some of these guy's are talking out their *** to you, Just guessing, But your best bet would be to just buy a little monoblock & call it quits, Or just take some advice on a different setup, If that's an option, I would just go there.

i would love to get a diff amp and go that route (mainly bc i need one with low pass) but money wont permit it right now. someone suggested selling my vintage RF and that i would get enough to get a new amp good enough for my sub....thinking about that.

you have dc power to your sub. simple as that/thread

i have come to agree. i dont understand how but i agree. im thinking the amp is just no bueno anymore after 20 years i could see it being jacked up and causing this.

 

[kbmukdk2316 10+ year member]

oh and i tried a diff sub and the exact same issue happened like 100% exactly the same. so its not my sub at all.

 

[kbmukdk2316 10+ year member]

matter of fact.............

if i unplugged the rcas and had the same issue when the amp turns on(eliminating the head unit/RCAs), and also tried another sub and had the exact same issue(eliminating the subwoofer), then relocated the amps ground to the seat bracket bolt (amp is mounted under front seat) instead of on a chassis bolt in the engine bay (eliminating ground loop) wouldnt that mean this has been troubleshooted to be faulty amp?

i believe i have efficiently and reasonably proved the problem does not exist in front of the amp nor behind the amp that would leave only the amp as the problem.

im gunna try another amp out with the same setup and see if i have the same problem (wont be for a few days that im able to test a new amp tho)

 

[csu87 10+ year member]

Step 1. Step away from the amp and sub.

Step 2. Go to Google

Step 3. Search for "car audio shop"

From reading this thread it is very clear you have no idea what you are doing. Either take it to a shop, or do a lot more research

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

idk what ohm its wired at (how do you tell) i all four channels of my amp wired to the one sub ( front right pos to pos on sub and rear left neg to neg of sub)

Here's your problem diptard

 

[brian84corvette 10+ year member]

this thread is super amazing. I literly almost laughed my chewed up pizza out of my nose holes when I saw the OP quote the post buddy made about the coils looking fine like they just came off the grille. hopefully ! lol x a million

origonal poster of this thread :

you broke your 20 year old amp

by hooking all 4 channels together thru a single voice coil sub.

im sorry

but there is nothing you can do about this - find another amp.

preferably a 2 channel or a mono block amp.... you have no need to have 4ch yet.

im dying to know how you have rca wires going to your amp.

I wish you had a camera to take pictures of your wiring so we can understand it better. because when you say you hook up the + front channel to the - on the rear channel - our minds simply can not understand how it is even working at all.

because the amp can not - and will not function like that.

when your sub pushes it self out like it does ( gets a boner I guess )

it is recieving power. dc power to poke out.

this is causing the voice coil of the sub to permenantly heat up and depending on how much dc power it is recieving - it will just simply melt sooner or later - or even catch on fire. - the fact that it still plays music when it does this - is also another mystery to us here on the fourms that know about car audio. it literly blows my mind that you can get sound out of this system right now....

another good idea - would be to ask around if there is anyone in your area - local to you that might be able to look at your system and help diagnose and fix the problems. there are alot of jerks on this fourm - but there are also alot of good people here too.

thank you for making this post - it was fun to read.

 

[xoutofmyheadx 10+ year member]

don't all cell phones have cameras?