my sub pushes all the way out...help!

Here's your problem diptard
ok so i thought i clarified earlier ( i guess i was trying to be to nice about it )

so let me put this frankly.

THIS PROBLEM EXISTED BEFORE I BRIDGED THE SYSTEM.

mmmm....

so i think that was pretty clear

(and now starts the flaming bc i said that like i know what im doing, right?)

oh well....

this thread is super amazing. I literly almost laughed my chewed up pizza out of my nose holes when I saw the OP quote the post buddy made about the coils looking fine like they just came off the grille. hopefully ! lol x a million

origonal poster of this thread :

you broke your 20 year old amp

by hooking all 4 channels together thru a single voice coil sub.

im sorry

but there is nothing you can do about this - find another amp.

preferably a 2 channel or a mono block amp.... you have no need to have 4ch yet.

im dying to know how you have rca wires going to your amp.

I wish you had a camera to take pictures of your wiring so we can understand it better. because when you say you hook up the + front channel to the - on the rear channel - our minds simply can not understand how it is even working at all.

because the amp can not - and will not function like that.

when your sub pushes it self out like it does ( gets a boner I guess )

it is recieving power. dc power to poke out.

this is causing the voice coil of the sub to permenantly heat up and depending on how much dc power it is recieving - it will just simply melt sooner or later - or even catch on fire. - the fact that it still plays music when it does this - is also another mystery to us here on the fourms that know about car audio. it literly blows my mind that you can get sound out of this system right now....

another good idea - would be to ask around if there is anyone in your area - local to you that might be able to look at your system and help diagnose and fix the problems. there are alot of jerks on this fourm - but there are also alot of good people here too.

thank you for making this post - it was fun to read.

ok so same as above, this problem existed before i bridged it so im gunna say i didnt brake the amp even if i did ive already stated i believe the amp is the problem now if i broke it or recieved it broken is up for interpretation.

yeah i really want a mono amp mainly bc i need something with low pass cause i get alot of voice through the sub.

umm the rca wiring, i have red and white rcas coming from the front output on my head unit to the front input on my amp. i have regular old speaker wire going from the amp to the sub and my amp is so old that i have a 10-wire wiring harness coming out of my amp as the speaker outputs + the remote wire so thats how i have front + and rear - to the sub. ( i just located the front right + which is white and the rear left - which is orange and hooked up the + & - from the speaker wire to them accordingly.

yeah i dont know how it plays music if im having dc power go to it. it not only plays music is like literally bumps lol

i didnt make this post for ppl to laugh at me (although thats not always a bad thing lol) i made it to figure out what the heck is going on with my crap...argh lmao

in around 3-4 hours i will post a **** load of pics to help every one understand. ill try to make a vid of the issue im discribing maybe ive described it wrong idk. but ill post pics of the entire system from a-b just to make everyone happy.

oh and when i do please dont laugh at my rca cables there all i had

(theyre the ones you would use to hook up an a/v component to your tv, you know the yellow white and red. and im just using the audio parts of the rca cable) theyre not the fancy special monster audio rcas that are 45 bucks theyre the 3 dollar 12 footer from target.

oh and....

great idea, any knowledgeable ppl from here around ventura,CA willing to take a look for me?????

 
so this is interesting, since i moved my amp ground. this problem is intermittent, i just got in the car and turned it all on (after switching back to 4 channel into one channel just to see what would happen again) and when i started it there was no cone movement there was no pop just music and bass. then i shut it off and turned it back on and it did what it would do when i had only one channel hooked up it did a long squelch when i turned it on it lasted for about 3 seconds and the cone was extended then when the noise stopped the cone went to its normal spot and then music kicked in right along with the rest of the system then i shut it off and on again about 5 more times and nothing no on/off pop/thump/squelch no cone movement no nothing. idk i think maybe the amp is on its way out or that maybe it was just a ground issue the whole time. my ground under the seat is kinda like half way on half way off so im gunna redo that realy quick and see what happens.

 
yeah that sounds exactly it. when ever the amp has power the woofer is out. so who thinks opening up the amp would give some insight? or would it just ruin it? (ive been building computers for years so i figure i can inspect for damage?)

 
now seriously dude...is that kinda stuff really necessary? i have done absolutely nothing wrong. ive even been very kind when ppl start flaming me, i dont see a ban being at all in the question. please stay on topic and post only contributing help. thanks.

 
ok everybody i just picked up a digital multimeter. i want to confirm if there's dc current going to my sub or not. ill do a few tests and let you know. oh and sorry no pics tonight, maybe tomorro??

 
alright now you can all laugh and have your fun, i believe i killed my amp while testing for dc voltage. i unplugged my sub's speaker wires and put them on the test leads of my DMM (with power off) i powered up the system and i got a reading of 0.03 then i turned up the volume and got spikes up to 5.xx just going up and down up and down then it flat-lined to 0.00 and it wouldnt read anymore then i hooked the sub back up and now i get now response at all. i probably fried it while i was testing. or maybe just cooked that speaker output? the amp still turns on just no speaker output. i may have touched the + & - ends of the speaker wire together while testing but i dont believe i did however its a possibility (would that kill the amp?) as soon as the dc current spiked it just went to zero and now nothing......wow, im a genius!!!!

 
ok so in conclusion im going with this being ground. since i relocated the amps ground i have not had this problem, im calling this solved with a ground being the culprit.

thank you everyone that said oh your just dumb and dont know what your doing. well i solved this not any of you huh.

and an honest thank you to those who were actually trying to help me! i really appreciate it!

 
sorry no vid, but i did get a few pics.

these pics are showing only the rear two channels bridged not all four.

and i wouldnt be able to catch the said problem on tape anyways because i have solved the problem it was bad ground. now that ive regrounded my amp the on/off cone extending does not happen anymore....yay!

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and heres on of the sub and box just for kicks and giggles

IMG_0605.jpg


ghetto i know but who cares its just the grocery getter.

 
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