My first "Active" "SQ'ish" build attempt.

Raggidy ass Nissans 😋🤪😛😜😝
I wish I still had my 1982 280zx. All three were some of the best cars I have ever owned.

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Sorry bro I'm just not into Jap crap. I've owned two imports in my life an 87 Prelude and an 87 MR2. I donated the Prelude to the police and gave the MR2 to my brother.
 
Sorry bro I'm just not into Jap crap. I've owned two imports in my life an 87 Prelude and an 87 MR2. I donated the Prelude to the police and gave the MR2 to my brother.
Not even in the same league as the 280zx. What is even better is they readily accept small block Chevy V8's in the engine bay and still retain the 50/50 weight distribution. Slap a 450hp 383 or an LS in a 2,800lb car and you are gonna have fun.
 
Not even in the same league as the 280zx. What is even better is they readily accept small block Chevy V8's in the engine bay and still retain the 50/50 weight distribution. Slap a 450hp 383 or an LS in a 2,800lb car and you are gonna have fun.
Who said it was try hard? I speak truth. You are a fagazi ass *****
 
Sorry bro I'm just not into Jap crap. I've owned two imports in my life an 87 Prelude and an 87 MR2. I donated the Prelude to the police and gave the MR2 to my brother.
as someone who works on and tears cars apart on a daily basis, today's american cars are just about the worst aside from fiats. Paying a premium for american labor, not a quality product
 
Yeah, I am retarded.

Since I switched out my subwoofer box I have noticed the sub is hitting the lower notes louder than before but my upper sub bass has suffered. I checked the DSP, it is set fine, checked my head unit, nope, its fine. I just figured the box tuning was that much different. Well, today I decided to look at the amp. Something I should have done from the day I swapped the box. The crossover was set at about 60hz. My dsp is set at 65hz. Sooooooo, I twisted the crossover on the amp all the way up and surprise surprise surprise... I got my upper bass back. SMH.
 
I have read this entire thread. Even re-read a few parts. I'm thinking about embarking on a similar build for my girlfriends Jeep Patriot. SQL-based, with DSP, etc. Still not sure I fully understand the "going full active" concept, but I feel like I'll be able to figure it out from this place!

Btw, you are one dedicated m'fer!!! Your build thread scares me into thinking, "is this a rabbit hole I want to really go down?!?!"
 
I have read this entire thread. Even re-read a few parts. I'm thinking about embarking on a similar build for my girlfriends Jeep Patriot. SQL-based, with DSP, etc. Still not sure I fully understand the "going full active" concept, but I feel like I'll be able to figure it out from this place!

Btw, you are one dedicated m'fer!!! Your build thread scares me into thinking, "is this a rabbit hole I want to really go down?!?!"
Going "Full Active" means you will have a dedicated amplifier channel for each speaker in the system. From the subwoofer(s) to the mids (left and right) to the tweeters (left and right). So if you have 10 individual speakers you will need 10 discrete channels of amplification. The DSP will be your crossovers before the amplifiers for each speaker and you may even be able to equalize each speaker individually. You will then be able to make the sound from each speaker reach your ears at the same time (Time Alignment) so that the sound will have a truer stereo image.

A list for you of things you will need on top of the stereo components...

Sound Deadening!!! Priority #1
A laptop
A calibrated measurement mic
Something to set the gains with correctly
Lots of time and patience

Thanks for the kind comments :)
 
I was hoping to buy a mic sometime here in the next day or two until my car decided to demand some money from me. Apparently my car separated the tread on one of my tires after my near collision with a doordash driver. So, $171 later I have a new tire and an alignment. I also found out I need a new outer tie rod end on the drivers side. They said they would put one in for free if I applied for their credit card. So I did. All I have to do is bring them the tie rod end. They put it in writing for me too. The car is driving so much better now.

20200706-170636-HDR1.jpg
 
Nobody had one or would sell me one on this forum so I bought a calibrated USB mic so I could tune this stereo now that the exhaust leak is buttoned up. The car is Cadillac quiet now and I can tell I am mid heavy and tweeter weak in the car. I got the miniDSP UMIK-1 mic and it should be here after the weekend.

On a side note... I have blown Kenwood eXcelon tweeters, Massive CT 1a tweeters, "Alpine" tweeters but these ARC Audio tweeters haven't skipped a beat. I do still have a brand new DD set of soft dome tweeters that I bought at the same time as the ARC tweeters just chillin on the shelf. I thought I would blow the ARC's so I got them as backups. Apparently ARC makes good sheeeit.
 
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