np man.. gl with the it let us know how it works.Awesome, well thanks for checking it out. Ill post some pics when I'm done!SicAudio; Thanks for the 2nd opinion, that was cool.
Gonna start cutting in the A.M.
When the port splits at the back of the box, each side needs to be half of the original port width.ruh roh shraggy!!!
the L part of your port looks waaaaay to close to the back wall...
it has to be the same distance from the wall as it is wide at the front...
uh... no? it has ill effects on the tuning... been there done that and used to think the same thing then got reamed by a ton of people on here that charge for their designs for "misinforming" people and they posted all kinds of evidence to the contrary...When the port splits at the back of the box, each side needs to be half of the original port width.
What amp are you using exactly? Those subs wired together will give you either a 2ohm or 8ohm load, so you'll have to use the 8ohm option(series) with your 4 channel, as I highly doubt it's stable at 2ohms bridged.Thats what it does. Its only off 2 of 4 channels on a 1200W amp. there single 4 ohm, so i was going to series them up. 4+4=8/2 4ohm load bridged...
It's common knowledge that you split the port into two ports that equal the same port area as the original single port...otherwise you're dealing with different amounts of port area at different parts of the box(in your instance, twice the port area once you split the port). Now what does happen is that you will need a slightly longer port to make up for the fact that you're splitting it into two smaller ports. How much longer just depends on a few things like port size, tuning, and how long the ports need to be after the main one splits.uh... no? it has ill effects on the tuning... been there done that and used to think the same thing then got reamed by a ton of people on here that charge for their designs for "misinforming" people and they posted all kinds of evidence to the contrary..
if the port is 2" wide at the front it has to stay at 2" wide at the backIt's common knowledge that you split the port into two ports that equal the same port area as the original single port...otherwise you're dealing with different amounts of port area at different parts of the box(in your instance, twice the port area once you split the port). Now what does happen is that you will need a slightly longer port to make up for the fact that you're splitting it into two smaller ports. How much longer just depends on a few things like port size, tuning, and how long the ports need to be after the main one splits.
I'm interested to see who said differently, as I have never once heard of anyone promoting what you're speaking of.
That's not what I'm saying at all because two 2" pipes do not equal the same cross-sectional area as a single 4" pipe. But dividing the 12"x2" port into two 12"x1" ports will give you the same cross-sectional area. I wouldn't recommend a port as skinny as what the OP is using, but it's just an example.if the port is 2" wide at the front it has to stay at 2" wide at the back
you account for it by calculating both L portions in the length...
the way you are saying to do it would be like putting a y pipe on a 4" round port and splitting it into 2 2" parts... it does not work...
reducing the port width like that creates all kinds of air movement problems and the tuning you think you have just changed by alot...