Popwarhomie
5,000+ posts
RIP CA.com.
Send them to Dave Leib in Fort Myers Florida. Went to his workshop this weekend to pick up some BTL re cones. He does some sick re cones.
i've ran several boxes tuned to around 40hz and the only one close to being a "1 note wonder" was the 44 hz one. And it was actually rather decent. TONS of output from 45-65hz. I've heard tons of upper 30's tunes extend down to 30hz music without issues, and they MURDER 40-70hz (the VAST majority of sub bass in most music lies in that band). Tune to play lower 30's loudly, and you lose output on the top end that would normally be very loud (depending on the driver). i listen to mostly metal, rock, punk, and a little regular rap/dub/trap, so 35-40 hz tunes suit me well. I guess if all you want to be loud with is decaf, dub, etc... then tune to 30 and wang on... but if you REALLY want it to hand out butt-kickings, give up on getting some of the lowest stuff loud...My 12s would move some air and they had the same port area just tuned at 32. If you just want a one note wonder that's fine I guess.
from mmats? name sounds familiar.Send them to Dave Leib in Fort Myers Florida. Went to his workshop this weekend to pick up some BTL re cones. He does some sick re cones.
Mainly on Facebook. He buys 100s of bad subs from sundown and brings them back to FL to recone and sell. Has a shop in Fort Myers and does some nice work.Already bought the shipping labels to Tantric, and I have not heard of Dave
from mmats? name sounds familiar.
if you're ever in daytona beach hit me up that's where I am, I don't get to hear many walls, it's all prefab trunk builds lol
Pretty much.Anything slowed down is probably considered a whale song.
The $500 will be for coils, baskets, spiders, leads, glue, surrounds, and the labor of cleaning the cones and putting everything together
Yes they are 7.5 inch. Had to get 8" spacers/adapters for the N3 spiders:
12″ Claw Style Frame | FixMySpeaker.com
I just don't like the look of the standard 12 spoke basket, and will have both subs inverted. I don''t want to spend a bunch of money on something that I don't like to look at.
The red one is packaged up, but I took the black one out of the box and measured the cone clearance. The one with the black pole piece only has about 3cm of rearward travel left in the motor. The coils were much different. I don't know if the coils I'm getting are longer or shorter. Same kind used in the HDD's
Goal isn't wale songs, although I have been listening to more slowed music lately.
Pimpin' by cyberoptics and the slowed version of "Downtown" are my favorite demo songs. Not sure if you consider those "wale songs"
![]()
Testing just sucks because I can't just pull the box out and turn it around like most people. Adam can tell you how much of a pain it was to build the baffle
Was going to buy that, but I asked Murphy to pull the specs real quick after he builds them. That'll save me $100Pretty much.
I don't like that about the frame. I really hate oddball/proprietary size stuff in general from a DIY perspective. Clearly the frames that DD uses are enough to set world records so it must be adequate for the intention.
As I expected you're pretty tight before you run out of x-mech just due to the back plate.... as you are with most subs. Very few motors are designed to have enough depth plus keep enough coil in the gap to really "need" those 10" spider frames.
Please invest in Dayton DATS so you can pull TS specs before you try to go too far off the reservation on tuning. I'd stay between 38-42.
Was going to buy that, but I asked Murphy to pull the specs real quick after he builds them. That'll save me $100
I know it changes. I don't want to pull the subs out, test specs, and build a new enclosure.And after the first few hours of you playing whale songs, Fs, Vas, and Qms will change as much as 30% depending on what he uses for spiders, then where are you? When you want to get techy later and pull impedance plots of the subs in the box to see how low you can wire for burps, etc. etc. You're not blinking at 500$ for two recones just pony up the 100$ for DATS.
Depending on the driver. I want a sub to play sub bass, all of it. If it takes a few dbs off to play all of it that's fine. That's why I don't go crazy on port area. Once you start upping the port area your bandwidth starts shrinking.i've ran several boxes tuned to around 40hz and the only one close to being a "1 note wonder" was the 44 hz one. And it was actually rather decent. TONS of output from 45-65hz. I've heard tons of upper 30's tunes extend down to 30hz music without issues, and they MURDER 40-70hz (the VAST majority of sub bass in most music lies in that band). Tune to play lower 30's loudly, and you lose output on the top end that would normally be very loud (depending on the driver). i listen to mostly metal, rock, punk, and a little regular rap/dub/trap, so 35-40 hz tunes suit me well. I guess if all you want to be loud with is decaf, dub, etc... then tune to 30 and wang on... but if you REALLY want it to hand out butt-kickings, give up on getting some of the lowest stuff loud...
I have tons of power, but not a gigantic box. I've also got six 8's for midbass, so I'm fine losing a bit of bandwidth with my subDepending on the driver. I want a sub to play sub bass, all of it. If it takes a few dbs off to play all of it that's fine. That's why I don't go crazy on port area. Once you start upping the port area your bandwidth starts shrinking.
DD subs are known to play well below tuning in large boxes with a ton of power.