I'm back, and I need help

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Is there an award for the longest time away but coming back because you still love the Deebeez?

But anyways, I've been out of the game for probably 6 or 7 years at this point and have no idea what's good anymore. Back then it was Alpine, RE (pre-buyout), Stereo Integrity, Incriminator, and SSA. Is the BIG-3 still a thing anymore?

Buying a 2005 RAM Quad Cab so I assume something shallow mount? I was always partial to a single 12" or 15".

Would like to keep the whole thing around $2,000 including wiring. I'll probably do a fiberglass box under the back seat. Want to avoid a new alternator if possible, but I could upgrade a battery if necessary.

Should have stated, I don't need it loud like when I was 16-19 years old. I want it to make your ears happy. Where do I start?!?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-GM-Digital-Series-GM-D9605-2000-Watt-5-Channel-Class-FD-Car-Amplifier/151841858491?epid=11003307206&hash=item235a7ae3bb:g:eTsAAOSwA4dWFc76&vxp=mtr 800rms to subs on this one u could use 2 sundown E's if u have the depth https://www.amazon.com/Sundown-Audio-SAE-1100-5-5-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B06Y3WYRJ6

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

if you are going with an 80 prs, dont even bother getting components, you are just wasting money on a passive crossover. Spend that money buying raw drivers instead and go active networks with the pioneer. There's pioneer touch screens that can do 80% of what the 80 prs can do SQ tuning wise. I'd stay away from the evils, too many poor reviews. CDT is overpriced mediocrity at best. Some focals are still good, hertz is good, image dynamics, morel are good as well. I'd generally always stay away from "SPL" companie's component lineups. They have no idea what they are doing when it comes to component speakers aka sundown, skar, ampere etc... They do a much better job at Pro Audio types of speakers. If your goal is loud and clean, i'd recommend going that route and grabbing a pair of silk domes tweets to pair it up with. If you want extreme pure SQ, i'd head on over to https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/ for legit SQ drivers. sb acoustics, seas prestige and scanspeak
if you are going with a pre-made box, make sure the sub you choose requires very little airspace to perform optimally.

This helps alot.

I think I'm going to go with the Sundowns for the subs. whether the SA's or SD3s.. I'll have to look at spacing.

Focal was good but expensive a while ago. Hertz had just come out and ID was out of my price range. I'll look into those though and see what makes the most sense. But yeah..

Loud and Clean is what I'm most interested in now. So the 80PRS -> component amp -> (2) midbass and (2) tweets? I want to replace the back door speakers as well so would I need a separate component amp?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This helps alot.
I think I'm going to go with the Sundowns for the subs. whether the SA's or SD3s.. I'll have to look at spacing.

Focal was good but expensive a while ago. Hertz had just come out and ID was out of my price range. I'll look into those though and see what makes the most sense. But yeah..

Loud and Clean is what I'm most interested in now. So the 80PRS -> component amp -> (2) midbass and (2) tweets? I want to replace the back door speakers as well so would I need a separate component amp?

I'd focus all your money on the front speakers and leave the rear on head unit power stock. The new dynamic is to focus all sound and power up front for a very loud setup that can be heard several football fields away along with having amazing soundstage and clarity. Anything in the rear basically destroys your sound stage. Its basically the evolution of car audio setups nowadays. There's no more front and rear, just midrange/midbass and tweeter on a lot of amplifier power.

I'd look into some crescendo UN 6.5s and sts-1 silk domes. another setup would be PRV 6mr500 ndy and image dynamics xs 28

budget power would be a ppi 900.4 or soundstream 900.4 both the same amp. otherwise any 4 channel amp from https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/ or http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/ thats does at least 125rms x 4 will do.

You'll want to run the 80 prs in network mode so flip the switch at the bottom of the head unit to network when you first get it.

this video should give you a rundown of how the 80 prs network mode works.

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

I'd focus all your money on the front speakers and leave the rear on head unit power stock. The new dynamic is to focus all sound and power up front for a very loud setup that can be heard several football fields away along with having amazing soundstage and clarity. Anything in the rear basically destroys your sound stage. Its basically the evolution of car audio setups nowadays. There's no more front and rear, just midrange/midbass and tweeter on a lot of amplifier power.
I'd look into some crescendo UN 6.5s and sts-1 silk domes. another setup would be PRV 6mr500 ndy and image dynamics xs 28

budget power would be a ppi 900.4 or soundstream 900.4 both the same amp. otherwise any 4 channel amp from https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/ or SoundSolutionsAudio's Online car audio store | We Finance! 60 second credit decision! Best prices, products and customer service. Fast shipping to US & Canada. thats does at least 125rms x 4 will do.

You'll want to run the 80 prs in network mode so flip the switch at the bottom of the head unit to network when you first get it.

this video should give you a rundown of how the 80 prs network mode works.

Dope. Thanks.

I'm not opposed to doing a little fiberglass on the A-pillars for the tweeters and then using a pair of 6.5" in the door since they'll fit. Maybe find a pair of real efficient 5.25" for the back doors. Or I could even rock some more midbass since 6.5 will fit in the rear doors.

Probably going to try and stick with matching amps for the subs/component amps. Should be like 1kw-1200rms for the sub amp and then 150-175x4.. but I'll probably pick once I decide on the components.

Those IDQ 10's don't look too bad.. I may even be able to get away with a pair of the 12's sealed.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Dope. Thanks.
I'm not opposed to doing a little fiberglass on the A-pillars for the tweeters and then using a pair of 6.5" in the door since they'll fit. Maybe find a pair of real efficient 5.25" for the back doors. Or I could even rock some more midbass since 6.5 will fit in the rear doors.

Probably going to try and stick with matching amps for the subs/component amps. Should be like 1kw-1200rms for the sub amp and then 150-175x4.. but I'll probably pick once I decide on the components.

Those IDQ 10's don't look too bad.. I may even be able to get away with a pair of the 12's sealed.

twisted sounds and synergy amplifiers are some of the bang for buck higher end stuff, made in korea right now. They are slightly stronger than most of the other amps and are slightly cheaper.

If you can fiberglass, then you might be able to run some super tweeters if you like your highs strong. Normally supertweeters are really peaky and ear bleeding harsh and loud however, You'll have the ability to tame them and make them sound like silk domes if you have an 80 prs.

 

[Beentown]

If you were closer I'd just sell you this box and glass another one.

You mentioned 12's....the FoxBox is available with 2-12's, ported. 1.55 cu each tuned at 35hz.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

If you were closer I'd just sell you this box and glass another one.
You mentioned 12's....the FoxBox is available with 2-12's, ported. 1.55 cu each tuned at 35hz.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Id slap two SA's in that on a solid 1500 watt amp.

 

[Beentown]

Id slap two SA's in that on a solid 1500 watt amp.

Yep, I've also heard it with NVX's top of the line subs. Great. I was really impressed. Musical and loud.
No matter what you have it really doesn't excel until you open some windows. Mine are severely choked due to very little cabin volume. Open the rear slider and a completely different system. Most of you know this but if your coming from an SUV to a truck, big difference.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

Yep, I've also heard it with NVX's top of the line subs. Great. I was really impressed. Musical and loud.
No matter what you have it really doesn't excel until you open some windows. Mine are severely choked due to very little cabin volume. Open the rear slider and a completely different system. Most of you know this but if your coming from an SUV to a truck, big difference.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I've only built stereos in 4 door sedans so all of this info will help alot.

I'm kind of concerned with having to remove/cut down the latching mechanism with the dual 12's, so maybe I'll go with dual 10's. That way I only need to add the spacer on the floor.

 

[Beentown]

I've only built stereos in 4 door sedans so all of this info will help alot.
I'm kind of concerned with having to remove/cut down the latching mechanism with the dual 12's, so maybe I'll go with dual 10's. That way I only need to add the spacer on the floor.

They both use the same spacer.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

They both use the same spacer.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

My apologies I misspoke. I was concerned with removing the "latch lid plate" but I think it will be okay. Is the box you have the ported 12's or sealed?

 

[Beentown]

Ported 10's. No matter the size get the ported box. The "free" extra output is felt.

I had sealed 10's in one of my trucks (2012 ram) and it was, underwhelming. Compared to these ported iterations.

I wish I would have went 12's all around for that bit more lower extension.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

So here's the setup I decided on. The battery and alternator I'm going to assess after I put stuff in. Going to do the front stage first, and then maybe spring time do the subs so my wife doesn't realize I just spent over $2k on stereo stuff

Headunit - Pioneer DEH-80prs ($275)

Doors, Front (x2) - Image Dynamics X-65 ($220)

Tweeters, Front (x2) - Image Dynamics XS-28 ($90)

Amplifier, Front - Sundown Audio SAX-150.2 ($329)

Doors, Back (x2) - Image Dynamics ID-5 ($60)

Subwoofers (x2) - Sundown Audio SA-12 ($440)

Amplifier, Subwoofer - Sundown Audio SCV-1500 ($370)

Box - FoxAcoustics Dual 2 vented ($210)

Wiring - Sundown Audio amp kit ($110)

Battery - undecided right now

Alternator - maybe down the road

Deadening - GTMat pro 50mil (100sq ft) ($155)

TOTAL ($2259)

PICKING UP MY TRUCK TODAY!

 

[youdoofus]

I'd focus all your money on the front speakers and leave the rear on head unit power stock. The new dynamic is to focus all sound and power up front for a very loud setup that can be heard several football fields away along with having amazing soundstage and clarity. Anything in the rear basically destroys your sound stage. Its basically the evolution of car audio setups nowadays. There's no more front and rear, just midrange/midbass and tweeter on a lot of amplifier power.
I'd look into some crescendo UN 6.5s and sts-1 silk domes. another setup would be PRV 6mr500 ndy and image dynamics xs 28

budget power would be a ppi 900.4 or soundstream 900.4 both the same amp. otherwise any 4 channel amp from https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/ or SoundSolutionsAudio's Online car audio store | We Finance! 60 second credit decision! Best prices, products and customer service. Fast shipping to US & Canada. thats does at least 125rms x 4 will do.

You'll want to run the 80 prs in network mode so flip the switch at the bottom of the head unit to network when you first get it.

this video should give you a rundown of how the 80 prs network mode works.

are you even able to run a rear stage if you do active fronts?

 

[skeptikal Premium Member]

are you even able to run a rear stage if you do active fronts?

I'm not entirely sure. I would think it could still run off the onboard amp from the headunit, but if not, guess I'm buying a bigger comp amp lol.