I know nothing - gimme some help here.

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

This is what I see from the pics..

#1- Batt/Engine bay- AGM Batt,or standard batt? Looks to be a Standard batt/nothing special. CCA/CA,RES? Unknown from Pic

#2-Inline Fuse holder/Supply wiring to rear for amps looks to be 8ga,max fused 80 amp AGU

#3-Diamond X-over network for a pair of Components(nice x-over) but a pic of only 1, if you have a pair you are in great shape for left and right front stage setup.

1st. wires on x-over=Supply from amp(Blk negative -,blue poss +)2nd set from X-over to woofer in door(Blk neg.-,Blue poss +)3rd set from X-over to tweeter(Blk neg.-, Red poss.+) Not Known if its left or right will have to be traced.Pretty simple from rear left going left, and right to right side of car if ran properly, but can be distinguished later with supplied amp installed.

#4-Light blue wire and clear wire Capped off(more than likely still Live/hot from the HU/radio..Generally the Remote/On/Off for amp.2nd clear wire more than likely

Spliced in for a 2nd. remote/on/off supply for a 2nd amp.

2nd set of clear wires in pics, more than likely are your front Left/ Right wires that go to Front speakers that were removed from an existing amp.

#3-A R.Fosgate AGU Distro. Supply power block with the (8ga?)black wire supply from batt, with 2) 8-10 ga red supply wire that went to 2) existing amps,and two

2) 8-10 ga black wires that were ground for amps.

Pic #5- Old R.Fosgate AGU supply/power supply Distro block...Good for a max of 80 amps,any more and pushing the limits of melting/becoming damaged.From my

Past Experience using them.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Continuation-

Pic #6- Red 8-10ga wire from distro block to power up 2) existing amps that were removed,and Blk wiring grounding..Id suggest at the minimum to remove all the

fuses from the distro block at this time while not being used,as they may still be live/hot if the Black supply wire under the hood at the batt is still connected

(looks like the fuse is still in at the inline fuse at the battery,and cant tell if still connected to the battery? By pics)You dont want to have those wires live back

there to possibly spark/ground out and start a fire on you.Simply remove all fuses on the distro block or the main fuse at the supply wire at the batt,until you

get ready to utilize the supply.Do this ASAP..Takes like 2 min.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Pic#7- As stated earlier, Light blue wire looks to be the Remote/on/off wire from the HU/Radio with a spliced in clear wire to supply 2)amps.Capped off due to still

being Live from the hu to the rear of the vehicle.Its fine for now capped off

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

2nd. set of pics

#1 -Drivers side tweeter..Not a great location as installed/off axis.I recommend relocating in the future to A-pillars,on dash,or higher up on the door location for better

staging

#2-Passenger side tweeter installed in the floor kick panel.Not a great location there as well.Way off axis towards the drivers side axis location as well.Recommend

relocating as well as #1 on same axis,as drivers side.

#3-Radio /HU- Sony- Model # not known due to pics to get info on..Sony has been around for years.You can incorporate it/use it in your system as it works and

saving some money.What is the model # to get an idea of its capabilities of what you can and can not do with it for future reference/specs?This will help,

for future upgrading

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I personally would keep the supply wiring you have in place now to run an amp on your front stage/utilize it saving time as well as funds.If you want to add a sub in the future, I would run other supply and grounding for that upgrade..But utilize whats there. As for your rear speakers playing/working, they are/may be existing,and are connected to the HU/radio with no amplified power/HU powered only,of my opinion,due to no amplifier installed at this time.Pretty much all you need to get the front stage going is a set of RCAs to run from the HU/radio to the rear,and an amp to supply the front stage,as supply is available/there,and hopefully you can take the time to check those speakers ohms value to see if they are any good,as well as exactly what you have in those doors.Id write down the model # on them and google them up while you have the door panels off.If they are Diamonds ..Run them if they are good/ohms value are in tact,not a bad set of components to start with for sure.If you have 2 sets of X-overs for them, thats a PLUS as well,but if you only have one,and if it works/doesnt look melted/or have any burned spots,ect, You can possibly find another,or simply buy after market ones to replace anywhere from $20 on up to high end,and sell the one Diamond that others may be in search of

 

[Jepalan]

You really need to get a cheap DMM and trace out every wire and draw a schematic of what you have. If you are not comfortable doing this much then you have no choice but to seek help from someone with a little electronics & car audio experience.

For what it is worth, the blue wire is *probably* the remote turn-on wire that is supposed to go to one of the missing amps, BUT there is no way for anyone here to tell you with 100% confidence what everything is from looking at pictures. Each wire needs to be traced out from it's source and a schematic diagram drawn out.

 

[JaseWeis]

Already got a cheap DMM on the way soon, my father does know a lot about electrical wiring and setting up speaker systems but I really wanted to figure some of it out on my own (And failed!). The next weekend he gets off, we're going to go ahead and go through all the wiring and see what we can do for the future.

Thanks a ton to ALL OF YOU. Even if some of it sounded harsh, it was most definitely correct in it's own way. Some people say (Like my father) that you should go out and learn and do everything you can until you can't, and others are more cautious, which is something that deserves just as much respect. Taking to an audio shop would be the easiest way, but I think I like the idea of learning all I could at the same time. Thanks a ton to all of you who helped me out, and once I get a bit done and a better understanding of everything in there, I'll be back again probably asking question on hooking up new parts to what already exists.

Jase, signing out.

 

[James Coyle]

Even the most experienced people have things to learn. Don't get discouraged man, it will start to make a ton of sense once you really get to the nitty-install bit.

 

[JarodM]

Learning from a pro (especially your dad //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif ) is the way to go. Absolutely nothing wrong from having someone else show you how to do it. That's how a lot of us learned what we know. You're young and have a lot to learn, there is NOTHING wrong with asking for help over doing it yourself. Accept all the help anyone's willing to give, makes life easier and you learn a lot, then 10 years from now you'll be the one teaching //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif lastly, nothing wrong with failing either! I fail more than I succeed at my projects, its again how you learn //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif