I blew a subwoofer with a weak amp?

[Charliemkv]

Buying cheap will always land you in a pyle of dog shit and you'll be hemorrhaging money buying junk all the times.

I see what you did there. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Considering the 30A fuse, the amp is probably realistically rated at 275w bridged at 4. It's capable of running a single sub reasonably well.

Those Pyle's are the cheapest of the cheap. Their regular "cheap" blue wave 10's have 600w on the cone -- and those bad boys use a 1.5" voice coil. They would probably have all they can handle at 100w rms, and it appears yours may even be a step below those. With an amp giving them 100+ each and jacking up the amp settings -- yeah -- blown subs is how that ends.

No point in dealing with a pair at this point. You'll just be taking up more space for no improvement in performance.

Get a fosgate punch 1 or maybe pio ts-w310s4

 

[bbeljefe]

Unless you have a Head unit like mine where the sub level is 0-15 and is simply a gate, 0 being closed and 15 being open. I have mine set to 15 it just let's the full signal go through. If you have a -7...0...+7 setting then you should leave it at 0 as that is the full signal.
I read this somewhere and have found it to be useful, correct me if I'm wrong.

I didn't say anything about the subwoofer output. And the numbers on the display are irrelevant, as manufacturers don't adhere to any standard with them. What matters is whether or not the subwoofer level control is only an attenuator or if it also engages a bass boost circuit.