I think my amp blew

I don't think any amplifier built in the last 20 years would be broken and not have a protect or fault light come up. Even the Alpine amps 30 years ago had protect/fault LEDs.

Likely there is a wiring problem somewhere and depending on your DMM and conditions when you measure a sub reading 2 ohm or whatever on a 4 ohm coil may not mean anything except you had a door open and it was a windy day or your DMM isn't terribly accurate. A broken sub will have either a coil that reads infinity Ohms (open) or will read normal impedance but make bad noises while playing or if you try to move the cone by hand.

I do NOT believe the woofer is the problem nor the amp.
 
Was just looking at those ct sounds subs.
I just don't know too much.
What would be best for 2 ohm at 500w
Was just looking at those ct sounds subs.
I just don't know too much.
What would be best for 2 ohm at 500w
Either sub should be just fine. Make sure its a DVC4 ohm(Dual 4 ohm). I lean towards the AB subs more just due to more experiencing with them and I like them more for the money. But either should be great depending on the enclosure and tuning.


 
I downloaded the manual for the alpine mrp-m500 and it only says the light is a power indicator, light on = power on and light off = power off. Nothing about troubleshooting or light flashing for any errors. So I'm back to thinking the amp is bad.
I'm going to hook it back up and see if it's still cutting out and if it does I'll check the rca inputs to make sure it's getting a signal.
Is there anything else I can check?
 
Unless it was a distorted signal going to the sub (like setting the gain too high or pumping up the bass boost to compensate for lack of power) I haven't seen a sub fry a coil on too little power

One of my co-workers let his son drive his truck and just had this happen. 2 JL W0-12's on a 300w amp(one of the cheaper kickers I beleive). Subs cooked, one shorted and killed the amp.

Clean power is the unicorn. You can feed a Walmart sub double RMS if it's really clean power. But clipp the crap out of a signal and you can cook even the beefiest of 4" 8-layer coils pretty quickly, but you know this already, lol.

Matt
 
The owners manual for that subs specs the coils DC resistance at 3.4 ohm, so assuming your meter is functioning as it should be, 1.6 is way low and very likely the coil has some shorted turns, or something bad going on with it. Just wanted to add that if the manuals for subs are available online, or you have it, the TS parameters often list the DC resistance of the coil, which helps when measuring with a DMM so you know what to expect.
 
The only protection my amp has is thermal so I'm thinking maybe it's cutting bc resistance is below 2ohms and can be tripping thermals?
 
The only protection my amp has is thermal so I'm thinking maybe it's cutting bc resistance is below 2ohms and can be tripping thermals?
Yes.. That sounds like its the issue. The amplifier is rated for 2 ohms nothing less. If less .. its doing what its supposed to be doing. If you continue to let it shut down.. eventually it will not be able to protect any longer due to the abuse and be a door stop for you, or a paper weight
 
Yes.. That sounds like its the issue. The amplifier is rated for 2 ohms nothing less. If less .. its doing what its supposed to be doing. If you continue to let it shut down.. eventually it will not be able to protect any longer due to the abuse and be a door stop for you, or a paper weight

We said he was wired too low on page 1.
 
Thanks for all the help guys
I'm going to buy a new sub, looking at some of the suggestions u guys gave.
I have a small sealed box now but will be making a custom one for the new sub.
I will make a new post under subwoofers bc looking for one that's good in a sealed setup that's not too huge
Thanks again
 
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