Sub blew up (possible overpowered)

  • 4
    Participant count
  • Participant list

lilhawksfan

CarAudio.com Newbie
I have a Sony XM-D6000GTX amp running 2 12 inch 4ohm 500w subs. I’m very new to this and don’t know how to figure out what subs I need to run with that amp. It was wired with a line out converter off of the factory amp from the factory sub outputs. I ran 4 gauge power and ground straight to the amp from the battery with a 125 amp inline fuse. Everything worked great for about 5 minutes and then it blew the 2 fuses in the back of the amp and one of the subs was smoking. If I press the subs in, one of them moves in and out like normal but the one that started smoking doesn’t move at all. I don’t think it was a wiring issue, more so just the amp possibly overpowering the subs. Can someone please help me find what subs would work with this amp or why that it may have blown?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6480.jpeg
    IMG_6480.jpeg
    398.2 KB · Views: 82
  • IMG_6481.jpeg
    IMG_6481.jpeg
    865.1 KB · Views: 73
  • IMG_6482.jpeg
    IMG_6482.jpeg
    61.4 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
You've toasted one of the woofers for sure and sounds like maybe the amp too. The site is having issues with pictures, can't see specifics. Which Pioneer woofers and how did you have them wired up to the amplifier?
 
Last edited:
You've toasted one of the woofers for sure and sounds like maybe the amp too. The site is having issues with pictures, can't see specifics. Which Pioneer woofers and how did you have them wired up to the amplifier?
TS-W34C is the part number on the subs. I just had the power ran to the power output on the sub and ground wired to ground output on the sub, left sub hooked to left output, right hooked to right. Amp says it’s good for 300w at 4ohms and the subs were rated at 500w 4ohm so I don’t see a problem there. Possibly just because the subs are like 20 years old? Lol
 
TS-W34C is the part number on the subs. I just had the power ran to the power output on the sub and ground wired to ground output on the sub, left sub hooked to left output, right hooked to right. Amp says it’s good for 300w at 4ohms and the subs were rated at 500w 4ohm so I don’t see a problem there. Possibly just because the subs are like 20 years old? Lol
??? You mean +/- on the speaker output from the amp to the +/- on the speaker right? You indicate that there were two subs so they should have been wired like this:

1709321134906.png


That would create a 2 ohm load to the amplifier and that amp puts out 600 watts RMS at 2 ohms. Those subs are rated for 150 watts RMS and would have split that output so possibly 300 a piece, twice their RMS limit. That usually blows speakers, not amps, except when you fried the first one, it would have shorted the circuit causing the amplifier to blow it's fuses.

If the amp is okay (put new fuses, start it up not connected to anything and see if it turns on. If it operates okay, then hook up the remaining good sub, and cautiously turn it on. Make sure the remaining sub does not have any rubbing when you manually push it up and down, or it may be damaged too.
 
Last edited:
I agree with Doxuzme. It sounds like you wired to 2 ohms which isn't a problem.


Do you know how to use the 'gain' knob on the amplifier? If it was turned up too high, it's easier for you to blow your subs up.

How loud did you have it when it died? Were you pushing them hard?

Your description of the damage sounds like a fried voice coil in the sub. Hopefully others here can confirm or deny that thought.


You don't have the wrong subs, you might have just mistreated them. I recommend trying to do a little research. Learn about car audio a little bit, or take your car to a shop and have them help you out.
 
Last edited:
??? You mean +/- on the speaker output from the amp to the +/- on the speaker right? You indicate that there were two subs so they should have been wired like this:

View attachment 57037

That would create a 2 ohm load to the amplifier and that amp puts out 600 watts RMS at 2 ohms. Those subs are rated for 150 watts RMS and would have split that output so possibly 300 a piece, twice their RMS limit. That usually blows speakers, not amps, except when you fried the first one, it would have shorted the circuit causing the amplifier to blow it's fuses.

If the amp is okay (put new fuses, start it up not connected to anything and see if it turns on. If it operates okay, then hook up the remaining good sub, and cautiously turn it on. Make sure the remaining sub does not have any rubbing when you manually push it up and down, or it may be damaged too.
I had them wired exactly like that. Amp turns on and works with the remaining sub. These came out of a car my friend bought but he didn’t use them so I just put them in. Quite possible that the one sub was already hurt. Thank you for your help. I will be buying one new sub and hopefully all goes well.
 
I had them wired exactly like that. Amp turns on and works with the remaining sub. These came out of a car my friend bought but he didn’t use them so I just put them in. Quite possible that the one sub was already hurt. Thank you for your help. I will be buying one new sub and hopefully all goes well.
Nice, good to know. Make sure the gains are set accordingly. Those subs are only rated for 150 watts so there is that to consider.
 
I agree with Doxuzme. It sounds like you wired to 2 ohms which isn't a problem.


Do you know how to use the 'gain' knob on the amplifier? If it was turned up too high, it's easier for you to blow your subs up.

How loud did you have it when it died? Were you pushing them hard?

Your description of the damage sounds like a fried voice coil in the sub. Hopefully others here can confirm or deny that thought.


You don't have the wrong subs, you might have just mistreated them. I recommend trying to do a little research. Learn about car audio a little bit, or take your car to a shop and have them help you out.
I had every dial on the amp all the way down any the volume was not loud at all (was having a conversation in the car when it blew) After talking with some friends who know more about this stuff and checking the wires, we determined that the one sub was probably already messed up when I put it in and it just took a minute for it to get warm and possible short within the sub. (We are guessing that these subs are like 20 years old considering that the car they came from hadn’t even been registered since 2007 before my friend bought it.) thank you for your help. I will be buying a new sub and hopefully all goes well moving forward.
 
Hmm.. No Bueno. Id prob be looking at another set of subs to be honest. Like some American Bass DX series. Great subs for the $. Maybe even look at some DVC2 ohm subs as a pair will get you down to final 2 ohm load. 400-600rms
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

Similar threads

First and foremost is that the sub must be designed to work in a small enclosure. If not designed for it, you may end up with less bass than the...
1
118
Using a Y RCA to split signal from amp to amp to give both amps the signal they need from the HU and subs in different /separate enclosures tuned...
3
501
https://www.parts-express.com/GRS-10SW-4HE-10-Paper-Cone-Rubber-Surround-High-Excursion-Subwoofer-4-Ohm-292-818?quantity=1 One of these in a...
4
354
Hahaha his brother got some from a friend. American bass amp and some alpine s 12in subs. From a buddy of his now Eastons chomping at the bit...
9
494

About this thread

lilhawksfan

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
lilhawksfan
Joined
Location
Florida
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
8
Views
640
Last reply date
Last reply from
audiobaun
pattern-wavelength.jpg

winkychevelle

    Apr 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
20221010_113336 (5).jpg

audiobaun

    Apr 27, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top