How would you build it?


LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
So I'm starting to plan my build. Subs are already decided, FU audio 6.5s under rear seat forward firing. The vehicle is a 2021 Jeep Wrangler, and the stock speaker layout is as follows:

2x 3.5's in the dash corners. 2x 4" (I replaced the pods in order to fit 6.5"s) in the knee panels, aiming directly at your knees. The sound bar just above and behind your head (seriously, like 8-12 inches above and behind your head) is also 2x 3.5" and 2x 4".

Sound quality priority, but volume also very important, as this vehicle has its top removed often. Sound stage, as you can imagine, is terrible. I've picked up insulation for the top, but only so much you can do with hollow this fiberglass/plastic as far as acoustics go.

Will be an active system. Have learned much here and from my last build, so will be trying to get better each time.

Would you run, active 4 channel, running 3.5s in the dash corners and the 6.5 knees? Active 6 channel, with 3.5 dash corners, 6.5 mids in the knees, and dedicated 6.5 (or possibly modifying to fit 8s) midbass woofers in the sound bar? A combination or any variant of what is listed here, or something else entirely?

I know I know, **** the rear speakers. I'm just worried about volume with the top and doors off.
 

nauc

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id do a good set of comps in the front doors and a good amp
 

Buck

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So I'm starting to plan my build. Subs are already decided, FU audio 6.5s under rear seat forward firing. The vehicle is a 2021 Jeep Wrangler, and the stock speaker layout is as follows:

2x 3.5's in the dash corners. 2x 4" (I replaced the pods in order to fit 6.5"s) in the knee panels, aiming directly at your knees. The sound bar just above and behind your head (seriously, like 8-12 inches above and behind your head) is also 2x 3.5" and 2x 4".

Sound quality priority, but volume also very important, as this vehicle has its top removed often. Sound stage, as you can imagine, is terrible. I've picked up insulation for the top, but only so much you can do with hollow this fiberglass/plastic as far as acoustics go.

Will be an active system. Have learned much here and from my last build, so will be trying to get better each time.

Would you run, active 4 channel, running 3.5s in the dash corners and the 6.5 knees? Active 6 channel, with 3.5 dash corners, 6.5 mids in the knees, and dedicated 6.5 (or possibly modifying to fit 8s) midbass woofers in the sound bar? A combination or any variant of what is listed here, or something else entirely?

I know I know, **** the rear speakers. I'm just worried about volume with the top and doors off.
Man, I have that Alpine 9887 for sale that's set up to run 3 way active.
 

nauc

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i love my Alpine 9887
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #6
Looks like a great unit, but I cannot give up my android auto.

I will likely run a dsp, and eventually I'll probably run the heigh10

24714


Looks like a great unit. For now I'll be running the stock head unit which should be interesting to sum the signals and then tune with dsp.

I was texting Buck about it, and this one will be difficult to build because of room available and speaker placement. I also have concerns that 2 6.5s and 2 tweets won't get loud enough when the top and doors come off.
 

Buck

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Looks like a great unit, but I cannot give up my android auto.

I will likely run a dsp, and eventually I'll probably run the heigh10

View attachment 24714

Looks like a great unit. For now I'll be running the stock head unit which should be interesting to sum the signals and then tune with dsp.

I was texting Buck about it, and this one will be difficult to build because of room available and speaker placement. I also have concerns that 2 6.5s and 2 tweets won't get loud enough when the top and doors come off.
All you need is enough power. I had 150w door speakers and they got loud. They could easily keep up with 140db. I had high 140's in music, so they were a little lacking. I still have my 9.2x and it does 200w @12.6v @ 4ohms, it's longer than my sub amps lol. Made my Rainbow speakers scream.
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #8
All you need is enough power. I had 150w door speakers and they got loud. They could easily keep up with 140db. I had high 140's in music, so they were a little lacking. I still have my 9.2x and it does 200w @12.6v @ 4ohms, it's longer than my sub amps lol. Made my Rainbow speakers scream.
I mean, power is possible. Id have to save for a bit, but
Would put some serious power to them.
 
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Buck

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LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #10
Have to figure out the speakers that'll handle that power though lol
 

LsGuy

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Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
Alright so I'm thinking...

24743


To integrate into my factory wiring grabbing signal before the amp so it isn't processed, and allow me to tune it for my active setup.

Running 4 channels for the front to this amp

24744


Then running 2 outputs from the dsp through this

24745


For sub volume control to the separate amp for the subs.

This leaves me 2 channels open for future system expansions, and let's me keep the factory soundbar speakers running from the stock amp.

What do you guys think?
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #12
Recommendation for speakers for a 3 way active setup up front? I'm think 2x 6.5s, 2x 3.5s, and 2 pod mounted tweeters. Want very loud, crisp punchy midbass, and preferably $500 or less
 

Buck

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Recommendation for speakers for a 3 way active setup up front? I'm think 2x 6.5s, 2x 3.5s, and 2 pod mounted tweeters. Want very loud, crisp punchy midbass, and preferably $500 or less
Have you ever thought about piecing your own setup all together? I forget the name of the site but there's one where they have tons of individual speakers and tweeters and potential crossovers if you want to use any. You can mix and match whatever to get the effect you want.
 

Buck

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The 3 way doesn't have to be all the same brand, is the point. So you can pick your favorites out of all components of a 3 way, instead of having to compromise with a whole package 3 way setup.
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #17
Oh totally, I don't need the xovers so I would prefer to piece a kit together. Just looking for tips on the speakers themselves. Like midbass woofer 6.5 sealed, or a 6.5 midrange. If I do 6.5 midbass, go 3.5 midrange? Etc
 

LsGuy

Manila Gorilla
Sep 11, 2020
403
108
Ohio
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #18
I got in touch with Crutchfield to help me pick out some speakers, and that proved more than useless. Instead of picking out individual speakers with me, he suggested a morel Maximo ultra 3 way set with no crossover for an active system. The set is listed at 100w rms, but doesn't list individual speaker watts. His suggestion was either a passive crossover or run 40 watts to the 6.5 and drop down from there for the other 2 speakers.
 

jeeper2269

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Mar 17, 2007
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I got in touch with Crutchfield to help me pick out some speakers, and that proved more than useless. Instead of picking out individual speakers with me, he suggested a morel Maximo ultra 3 way set with no crossover for an active system. The set is listed at 100w rms, but doesn't list individual speaker watts. His suggestion was either a passive crossover or run 40 watts to the 6.5 and drop down from there for the other 2 speakers.
Did you end up getting your system yet?
 

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