First adire, now SoloX whats next?

[djdilliodon!]

Small question. What do you mean blows up on 4v? I have a smart 3 and it's getting 6v of input and I haven't had a single issue...

Yes, the single RCA is pretty ******* annoying, and the crossover is pretty Meh, but I used my headunit crossovers until recently when I got a DSP.

Brazilians put out solid power and are cheap, can't really complain too much. If you want the fancy features, pay more than 300 for a 3k amp.

Matt

I hope my smart 5k doesn’t blow up with 7v lol

 

[KicktheSDbasshead]

View attachment 37748

Lmao

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

Small question. What do you mean blows up on 4v? I have a smart 3 and it's getting 6v of input and I haven't had a single issue...

Yes, the single RCA is pretty ******* annoying, and the crossover is pretty Meh, but I used my headunit crossovers until recently when I got a DSP.

Brazilians put out solid power and are cheap, can't really complain too much. If you want the fancy features, pay more than 300 for a 3k amp.

Matt

I ran a smart 3k with 5v and both input and output plugged in as inputs.

didnt know how brazilian/FB were not like half bridge / class d mono amps,

Luckily my preamp line driver eq popped and not the smart 3k.

learned quickly those design amps are not for me, but was loud.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

I ran a smart 3k with 5v and both input and output plugged in as inputs.

didnt know how brazilian/FB were not like half bridge / class d mono amps,

Luckily my preamp line driver eq popped and not the smart 3k.

learned quickly those design amps are not for me, but was loud.

Gotcha. Yea, the Brazilians are fragile compared to the Korean tanks we are used too. You can't run a Brazilian at below rated Impedance unless you like fire.

For me, it's great. Small footprint, 3k+ at 2 ohm, efficient, and less than half the price of a 3k korean. You just have to stick to loads the manufacturer recommends.

Matt

 

[Mr Finance]

Don’t hold your breath....I use to stop by thilo’s shop once a month for parts about 10 years ago after he went bankrupt with the audio pulse brand and he was in so much debt...tired to make a come back with TC again on Parts express but didn’t pan out...the reason I still have my 4 TC 5200 15s and 3 original eclipse Ti Pro 15s in perfect condition...couldnt get oem recones if I blew them Lol

What do you want for the eclipse 15's

 

[djdilliodon!]

Gotcha. Yea, the Brazilians are fragile compared to the Korean tanks we are used too. You can't run a Brazilian at below rated Impedance unless you like fire.

For me, it's great. Small footprint, 3k+ at 2 ohm, efficient, and less than half the price of a 3k korean. You just have to stick to loads the manufacturer recommends.

Matt

This is the exact issue I have. I don’t wanna use taramps but for the price what you get is a lot! Same power from 1-2 ohms, reasonable price, does even more than rated, small foot print, efficient etc. In my experience, I have ran higher than the input listed on an amp and never had an issue. The EQ I have has a built in line driver at 8v. I still have time to decide amp wise and may change but I don’t feel like spending $1100+ on a rebadge. My other option I’ve been looking at is the deaf bonce AAB7900.1 and AAB500.4. Would cost about $300 more for these than the taramps. Decisions, decisions, decisions

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

This is the exact issue I have. I don’t wanna use taramps but for the price what you get is a lot! Same power from 1-2 ohms, reasonable price, does even more than rated, small foot print, efficient etc. In my experience, I have ran higher than the input listed on an amp and never had an issue. The EQ I have has a built in line driver at 8v. I still have time to decide amp wise and may change but I don’t feel like spending $1100+ on a rebadge. My other option I’ve been looking at is the deaf bonce AAB7900.1 and AAB500.4. Would cost about $300 more for these than the taramps. Decisions, decisions, decisions

I mean, I'm running a $1300 audison amp for my stage so I bought both ends of the spectrum. It really comes down to your setup and what you want.

You can get big ass Koreans thst love being smacked around, tossed in a closet, and called a dirty slut after you run them at a quarter ohm on 12v all day. Korean amps live for that ****. Get a good board design from a good brand, and you don't have to worry about much.

Brazilians require some love. You have to tell them they are pretty, give them a solid 13.5v, run them at 1 ohm, and they aparently hate vibration so isolate them.

Each amp does its own thing. For me, Brazilian was the choice. I don't run at 1 ohm. I'm part of the 4 or 2 ohm gang 'cuz efficiency and getting 3k at 2 ohms on a Korean is damn expensive.

Matt

 

[djdilliodon!]

I mean, I'm running a $1300 audison amp for my stage so I bought both ends of the spectrum. It really comes down to your setup and what you want.

You can get big *** Koreans thst love being smacked around, tossed in a closet, and called a dirty slut after you run them at a quarter ohm on 12v all day. Korean amps live for that ****. Get a good board design from a good brand, and you don't have to worry about much.

Brazilians require some love. You have to tell them they are pretty, give them a solid 13.5v, run them at 1 ohm, and they aparently hate vibration so isolate them.

Each amp does its own thing. For me, Brazilian was the choice. I don't run at 1 ohm. I'm part of the 4 or 2 ohm gang 'cuz efficiency and getting 3k at 2 ohms on a Korean is damn expensive.

Matt

Man I gotta get me a Korean (we still talking amps right??) . I could buy them straight from the source but the amount of time it takes to get and the cost of shipping, while a savings is easily had, if anything goes wrong with it you are pretty much SOL lol.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Man I gotta get me a Korean (we still talking amps right??) . I could buy them straight from the source but the amount of time it takes to get and the cost of shipping, while a savings is easily had, if anything goes wrong with it you are pretty much SOL lol.

Lol, yes I'm talking amps. Going from a distributor is an option, but Yea warranty is ****.

For example, the new D4s amps came out. You can get the JP43 for $850. Williston audio just put up a video of it dynoing 5050w at 1 ohm at clip. At 2 ohms it did something like 3500w.

Compare that to the Smart 5. $565 on Amazon with prime, at least 5k at 1 and 2 ohm.

It's a personal choice. Each person treats their stuff differently, and everyone has different priorities. I'm careful with my stuff, and I don't run my stuff at the limit so Brazilian substage amp was a no-brainer.

Matt

 

[djdilliodon!]

Lol, yes I'm talking amps. Going from a distributor is an option, but Yea warranty is ****.

For example, the new D4s amps came out. You can get the JP43 for $850. Williston audio just put up a video of it dynoing 5050w at 1 ohm at clip. At 2 ohms it did something like 3500w.

Compare that to the Smart 5. $565 on Amazon with prime, at least 5k at 1 and 2 ohm.

It's a personal choice. Each person treats their stuff differently, and everyone has different priorities. I'm careful with my stuff, and I don't run my stuff at the limit so Brazilian substage amp was a no-brainer.

Matt

I’ll be running the pair of 15’s at 1.4 ohm, if I ever smoke em I can rebuild with D1’s since I finally got more of them but these things ain’t easy to smoke! The deaf bonce amp looks to be a Brazilian made amp but can handle 8v to the jacks according to the specs. The last thing I wanna do is have to pull an amp out the car and be down. I’ve been going without bass for long enough. All I’ve been doing is hearing other peoples stuff and freeing subs after building them which has started to become a tease

 

[KicktheSDbasshead]

This is the exact issue I have. I don’t wanna use taramps but for the price what you get is a lot! Same power from 1-2 ohms, reasonable price, does even more than rated, small foot print, efficient etc. In my experience, I have ran higher than the input listed on an amp and never had an issue. The EQ I have has a built in line driver at 8v. I still have time to decide amp wise and may change but I don’t feel like spending $1100+ on a rebadge. My other option I’ve been looking at is the deaf bonce AAB7900.1 and AAB500.4. Would cost about $300 more for these than the taramps. Decisions, decisions, decisions

I have 2 deafbonce apocalypse 6ks and 4 of the taramps 15ks I had a problem with my regulator and it hit 16 flat and that 6k went I to protect turned it off and it went right back to work when I fired it up

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

I have 2 deafbonce apocalypse 6ks and 4 of the taramps 15ks I had a problem with my regulator and it hit 16 flat and that 6k went I to protect turned it off and it went right back to work when I fired it up

Is there an 18v version of the 15k's or am I missing something?

16v being low voltage makes me laugh a little, lol.

Matt

 

[KicktheSDbasshead]

Is there an 18v version of the 15k's or am I missing something?

16v being low voltage makes me laugh a little, lol.

Matt

Lmao oh hell no there isn't but the taramps will take a smidgen more than just 15. Tbh I haven't punished either enough to say if the extra money is worth it but I will say taramps is nothing to sleep on. They do work.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Lmao oh hell no there isn't but the taramps will take a smidgen more than just 15. Tbh I haven't punished either enough to say if the extra money is worth it but I will say taramps is nothing to sleep on. They do work.

Ahhh, gotcha. 13.5-14.5 is the sweet spot. Lower and you can cook them, higher and you can pop the rail caps on accident from what I understand. The smart series really could use rail caps with like 20 percent more overhead.

Matt

Edit: these numbers are referring to running the amp on the edge of clipping trying to get the most out of them in competition. Not for daily bumping.