Finished Building System, Any thoughts?

Reread the thread man... you were frustrated, I mentioned an additional baffle to make a good cut on... idk. Someone else commented on your quality cuts... I just love when people self destruct.

So maybe I commented on that.

Jeez... Snowflake city around here anymore.

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He was nothing but an ******* to me after I told him I couldn't make a cut. I had never attempted to cut wood before ever and was ridiculed because it wasn't perfect.

I came here to learn as well but you can't when people treat you like crap for asking questions.

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Have you even looked into the amp or dyno tests on it. 2,400 dyno @ 1 ohm should be sufficient for one ABHD15D2. Especially, in the right enclosure.
Just run what you got man, no reason to take this stuff personal. If it pounds and your happy with it, wtf cares? But you do have to realize the old school Soundstream was USA built using top notch components, now where are they built?
I’m just saying.
 
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I actually ran the Rubicon 2500.1 and matching 4 ch amps for about 5 yrs. They were ok but the mono amp fell short of it's claimed rating. A lot of mfgrs will do this to get you to buy. I have since sold them will NOT go back to SS and went with a much better brand. Bobbytwatnames just because it says it does 2300-2500 doesn't mean it will.... lot of that depends upon how strong your electrical is. I myself would have kept that Orion amp instead of selling it. You downgraded yourself.

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Have you even looked into the amp or dyno tests on it. 2,400 dyno @ 1 ohm should be sufficient for one ABHD15D2. Especially, in the right enclosure.
I'm no dummy by any means. Many will argue that dyno's mean nothing when it comes to real world listening /testing. Again, if you would read my statement I replied with earlier, a lot depends upon your strengthness of your electrical. It's not gonna do 2400 watts right out the box.
 
You are what is wrong with the car audio forums today. Tell the guy who is running two W7's with one of these that it's garbage. You are why people quit posting on the forums. You pop in, uneducated about this amp, and run your mouth. What amps are you running Chief? I would rather run a different amp, but am limited electrically, and, that can't change. Have some class and don't just **** on somebody for no reason. If a guy can run two W7's with one of these, then, I think it can run one AB HD15D2.
Wtf you talking about lmao. Where did I ever say W7's were garbage? I don't post here much because I do have a life outside of this forum, not that it's any of your business. I hang out frequently on FB groups. Uneducated about this amp lol ah lawd here we go. I already proved to you I OWNED this amp. I think you need a time out there cupcake.
 
Just run what you got man, no reason to take this stuff personal. If it pounds and your happy with it, wtf cares? But you do have to realize the old school Soundstream was USA built using top notch components, now where are they built?
I’m just saying.

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I couldn't keep the Orion with my electrical. I really can't upgrade my electrical. I'm limited to a 90 amp alternator and two batteries. The 2,500 LE's are different than the ones you ran. The LE only fell 100 watts short of rated (2,400). Dynamic was over 2,600. My sub only needs 1,500 rms. I think calling them garbage is a bit much.
They're not the best...but budget minded amp if you so choose to call them....but you act like your warshipping it like it's your best friend. Again, dynamic doesn't mean squat.....and again those numbers depend upon your electrical. Quit being so hard headed. You should listen to the guy that OWNED one of those amps.....not what the mfgr has written numbers on the side of the box. You can't upgrade your electrical then don't expect much from your audio. You're gonna be disappointed. A HO alt is the main source of your electrical. 90 amps isn't gonna provide enough amperage for that SS amp.
 
Wtf you talking about lmao. Where did I ever say W7's were garbage? I don't post here much because I do have a life outside of this forum, not that it's any of your business. I hang out frequently on FB groups. Uneducated about this amp lol ah lawd here we go. I already proved to you I OWNED this amp. I think you need a time out there cupcake.
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The guy is running two W7's with a Rub2500.1. So, in my opinion, the Rub should be able to run one AB HD15D2.
 
The old school ones were also cheater amps and pulled current like no tomorrow. Believe me, I was running a Nakamichi PA400M on two RF pro series 12's ($380 each) back in 1989. Each sub was only getting 220 watts @2 ohms. That setup slammed in a 1" thick MDF enclosure (separate chambers). The system cost $5,500 in 1989. I'm not some young kid who doesn't research. $5,500 for a system that totaled 590 watts, total.I'm not an idiot.
I know, I killed a Reference 705 at a stoplight, on stock electrical. Luckily it was under warranty. Ams refused to set up the replacement the same, unless I installed a high current alt, which I did.
 
Timbo, people like boomin tahoe ruin Car Audio forums. People research amps, speakers, head units, batteries, wiring, etc..... Then, people pop in with douchebag comments with no knowledge of the whole thread. They just pop in and like to trash people. SMDH!

How am I ruining car audio forums? FB is the one that ruined them, not I.
 
They're not the best...but budget minded amp if you so choose to call them....but you act like your warshipping it like it's your best friend. Again, dynamic doesn't mean squat.....and again those numbers depend upon your electrical. Quit being so hard headed. You should listen to the guy that OWNED one of those amps.....not what the mfgr has written numbers on the side of the box. You can't upgrade your electrical then don't expect much from your audio. You're gonna be disappointed. A HO alt is the main source of your electrical. 90 amps isn't gonna provide enough amperage for that SS amp.

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The LE's are different than the 2500's that you ran. The other amp that I considered was the Taramps MD3000.1 4 ohm version (less current draw). Yes, 3,000 watts @ 4 ohms, only 1,920 watts @ 2 ohms, and not one ohm stable.

I would love to know how you think the LE black one is different vs the midnight blue one other than color. Have you exposed it's guts yet? Do you have a blue one nearby to make a comparison?
 
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