Factory rear panel install

[Rzza]

So you can choose either the decks crossover or the amps. Not both. And it's a High pass to keep the bass out. The decks crossover will be easier to adjust on the fly so you can see what you like. Start at 100 and experiment to see what you like. I didn't see what deck you have. Didn't go back very far.
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I can do that even though I have passive crossovers? Thanks for the response btw

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Today I received the package and tackled the job. It took over 3 hours for the first door and an hour for the second. There was lots of cutting and modifying. The 6x9 to 6.5 adapters I bought were actually 6x9 to 5.25 so I had to modify those and I decided to run the 3.5s in the door rather than the dash. I know the speaker positioning is poor but other than that I think I did better than a craigslist installer would have done and without a single scratch. I was able to keep the tweeter close to the woofer and the 3.5 is also within about a foot from them.It sounds far better than the alpine type R. I have not bridged them yet. I am currently running the rear 6x9s and the new front stage all at 70 watts per channel and tomorrow I will experiment with the fronts only at 200 watts each and maybe I will end up upgrading to a class a/b 175x4.

I am still confused on crossovers here. I understand that I should keep the head unit crossovers off completely correct? Then the amp crossover for the components should also be off right, since I have the passive crossovers connected? I read in a review for my components that I should set the amp crossover at 100hz so that threw me off. So I can use the amps crossover on the rear 6x9s right? This is how I have it now. I guess I just don't know where to set my crossovers on the amp. BTW there is two crossover one for front and one for rear. Thanks

Please for the love of god reposition your tweeter that spot is TERRIBLE like really really bad for clarity, imaging, loudness ETC basically everything.... Move them to the A pillar or Sail panel or above the midrange on the doors have them fire directly towards you on axis, if possible angle the midrange to fire at you as well. High pass filter can be anywhere from 63hz to 125hz on your head unit. Never use the amp's crossovers when your head unit can do it better.

I read a few places that I shouldn't need rear speakers that I should do my best to blend the front stage with subs but I think I decided I want to replace the rear 6x9s with a good midbass speaker. Does anyone know a good one? I am looking at this. PWX 6.5" CRESCENDO PRO AUDIO MID RANGE - SSA STORE The freq range is 83-5600 and rms 150. Any thoughts?

since you are using the passive crossovers, you dont need to switch the head unit into active mode and you can use standard mode which lets you run front and rear so yes you can use that speaker. That speaker is almost pure midbass and lower midrange, you wont get anything else out of it.

 

[Rzza]

Please for the love of god reposition your tweeter that spot is TERRIBLE like really really bad for clarity, imaging, loudness ETC basically everything.... Move them to the A pillar or Sail panel or above the midrange on the doors have them fire directly towards you on axis, if possible angle the midrange to fire at you as well. High pass filter can be anywhere from 63hz to 125hz on your head unit. Never use the amp's crossovers when your head unit can do it better.


since you are using the passive crossovers, you dont need to switch the head unit into active mode and you can use standard mode which lets you run front and rear so yes you can use that speaker. That speaker is almost pure midbass and lower midrange, you wont get anything else out of it.

Perfect thanks. It will be a couple days until I have the new speakers but how will I crossover the new midbass drivers? hpf or lpf? I think I want it to play 120 to 1000ish so how is that accomplished? I tried googling this but I haven't found the answer.

Today I spent an hour driving and I can say that the money spent on those ppi components was well worth it. The sound is day and night from the alpine type R 6x9s. They don't even compare! The vocals are so clear and completely separated from the music. The highs are not bright at all which is probably due to the tweeter location but I like it a lot. I will try to modify the speaker holes so that I can turn them around and have the tweets above the woofer.

 

[Rzza]

Dude, how loud is this? LOL

09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Perfect thanks. It will be a couple days until I have the new speakers but how will I crossover the new midbass drivers? hpf or lpf? I think I want it to play 120 to 1000ish so how is that accomplished? I tried googling this but I haven't found the answer.
Today I spent an hour driving and I can say that the money spent on those ppi components was well worth it. The sound is day and night from the alpine type R 6x9s. They don't even compare! The vocals are so clear and completely separated from the music. The highs are not bright at all which is probably due to the tweeter location but I like it a lot. I will try to modify the speaker holes so that I can turn them around and have the tweets above the woofer.

that would still be a garbage location. These are the proper locations FIRING DIRECTLY TOWARDS YOUR EAR IN YOUR DRIVER SEAT. YOU DO NOT REALIZE HOW IMPORTANT THIS IS. Your tweet needs to be close to your midrange not your midbass and your midrange is higher up. Everything is screwed up when your tweet is where its at right now because basically you have ZERO highs right now from the tweet being completely blocked.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Dude, how loud is this? LOL
09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS................................Mids/Highs amp: CT 500.2, ppi 600.2, ppi 900.4 bridged

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

Its okay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjfkdWthH84http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjfkdWthH84

 

[Rzza]

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[Rzza]

Ill buy the proper hole saw and add the tweets above the mid by the door handle.

 

[Rzza]

I bridged the fronts and removed the rear 6x9s, holy ****! These things scream now and definitely don't need it louder than this which I am very surprised about! I do still want the rear doors filled with a couple 6.5" midbass. I understand I should get a third amp for the new midbass but can I use a single amp to push the front stage and rear midbass if the midbass speakers and the front components are rated nearly the same?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I bridged the fronts and removed the rear 6x9s, holy ****! These things scream now and definitely don't need it louder than this which I am very surprised about! I do still want the rear doors filled with a couple 6.5" midbass. I understand I should get a third amp for the new midbass but can I use a single amp to push the front stage and rear midbass if the midbass speakers and the front components are rated nearly the same?

to be honest, you are just wasting time and energy with the rears. Just move your tweeter up to the right spot, sound treat and deaden your doors PROPERLY and you'll have all the midbass in the world. Do a proper front stage install and tune before even thinking of adding any rear midbasses. Its literally a horrible idea when you drag the sound stage behind you in any way. Have you even properly EQ and time aligned yet? Actually nvm there is no sound stage since the tweeters are right down there firing at your feet producing negative results.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Dont believe that accustical treatments can make that big of a difference? It makes a serious difference more than adding more speakers can ever hope of achieving.

 

[Rzza]

to be honest, you are just wasting time and energy with the rears. Just move your tweeter up to the right spot, sound treat and deaden your doors PROPERLY and you'll have all the midbass in the world. Do a proper front stage install and tune before even thinking of adding any rear midbasses. Its literally a horrible idea when you drag the sound stage behind you in any way. Have you even properly EQ and time aligned yet? Actually nvm there is no sound stage since the tweeters are right down there firing at your feet producing negative results.

Ok thanks, I watched all three videos and i'm about to start researching the differences between using luxury liner pro and dynamat. If you click on my picture on page 3 you can see the whole door with the panel off. It looks like a simple door to line. Should I just line it evenly, everywhere the panel will cover and then use the fast rings and be done? Should I also stick it inside the 6x9 holes? (I'm quite sure I can't fit any inside)

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

Dont believe that accustical treatments can make that big of a difference? It makes a serious difference more than adding more speakers can ever hope of achieving.

dude i just got the fast rings for the first time ever. Can't wait to install it and hear the difference.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ok thanks, I watched all three videos and i'm about to start researching the differences between using luxury liner pro and dynamat. If you click on my picture on page 3 you can see the whole door with the panel off. It looks like a simple door to line. Should I just line it evenly, everywhere the panel will cover and then use the fast rings and be done? Should I also stick it inside the 6x9 holes? (I'm quite sure I can't fit any inside)

CLD tiles aka dynamat is to reduce resonance of flimsy metal panels, stinger expert road kill is a much better choice than dynamat, cheaper thicker, works better.

Luxury liner pro is noise barrier, heavy thick mass loaded vinyl that kills both road noise and seals up the holes in your car door making a proper enclosure out of your door.

 

[Rzza]

CLD tiles aka dynamat is to reduce resonance of flimsy metal panels, stinger expert road kill is a much better choice than dynamat, cheaper thicker, works better.
Luxury liner pro is noise barrier, heavy thick mass loaded vinyl that kills both road noise and seals up the holes in your car door making a proper enclosure out of your door.

Easy enough, I will get the roadkill then thanks