Do I need an electrical upgrade??

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Ok, so HO alternator AND AGM battery or just the alternator with the big 3 will do?

You need to do the big 3, run 1/0 from the largest AGM you can fit under the hood then and get yourself a GlowVoltage series 1 or 2, LifePo4, no isolator needed, no HO alt needed either unless you expect to run max load sustained, which VERY unlikely, and even then, you could see up to 20 minutes at close to or actually at max.

In this diagram, I have the Glow\Voltage as the 2nd battery (first not in the picture) and then use whatever distro you like. I like this one, but I'm also running three amps.

Here is doubling up the bass 5k Lower box in black), and single or double runs to the 4 channel Top in red), either of which power is provided by the GV lithium.

The voltage differences are negligible and no isolator is needed.

I run my system, off my stock 110 Alt.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I have not run one of those amps.
If it pulls 230 at full boogie, why did you need 370 to stay alive?
Or did you go big since you had to replace it to eclipse the 230A anyway?

Taramps saying 230 amps "on music" isn't saying much. It's still a 5000 watt amp and ohms law will always be a law.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

I run my system, off my stock 110 Alt.

Which is what 1000 watts clamped? Stinger 4k at 4 ohms if your signature is still accurate?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Which is what 1000 watts clamped? Stinger 4k at 4 ohms if your signature is still accurate?

Fact, as is always the case, I qualify my comment with information so that the op can make a call. fact is, very few individuals are ever going to see anything anywhere ear 250 amp draws, in a daily driver thus the need to educate with stuff like this:



To your point, no, it's 2300 watts (now running at 2 ohms) to peaks of close to 4000 watts from the 4k alone, so, still, even when I am blowing the ears off anyone willing to stay in the car, 68 to 75 amps constant clamped is the most I've ever pulled.

AND, at 65 amps, you cannot sit in the car, not even reasonably comfortable at those volumes anyway (and I won't allow it due to potential hearing loss/damage), so unless that's not the case and you're competing, accurate advice.

Granted, in newer cars, replacing the alt can be a bit daunting, not so much in an 02 Tahoe but still, if it isn't necessary, then it's not.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

it's 2300 watts (now running at 2 ohms) to peaks of close to 4000 watts from the 4k alone

What in the world makes you think you are getting 4k out of that amp wired at 2 ohms and then saying the most you have ever clamped is 65-75 amps. You are seeing 1k watts...

This is why you keep telling people they don't need an HO alternator. You are running the power a stock electrical vehicle can handle.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

AND, at 65 amps, you cannot sit in the car, not even reasonably comfortable at those volumes anyway

You are delusional.

 

[RobGMN Premium Member]

Different strokes for different folks, but I personally wouldn't want to drive around with my system regularly hitting over 130dB.

I think the OP said he wants to play normal, but also have a loud system to show off.

Hey Juulian, how long do you intend to run the system at max volume for? Occasional blasts, or hosting parking lot parties?

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

Different strokes for different folks, but I personally wouldn't want to drive around with my system regularly hitting over 130dB.

I think the OP said he wants to play normal, but also have a loud system to show off.

Hey Juulian, how long do you intend to run the system at max volume for? Occasional blasts, or hosting parking lot parties?

OP wouldn't buy two Xv3s and a 5k if he didn't want to hit over 130s though.

 

[RobGMN Premium Member]

OP wouldn't buy two Xv3s and a 5k if he didn't want to hit over 130s though.

For sure. But for how long is the question that the answer will determine his needs.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

What in the world makes you think you are getting 4k out of that amp wired at 2 ohms and then saying the most you have ever clamped is 65-75 amps. You are seeing 1k watts...

This is why you keep telling people they don't need an HO alternator. You are running the power a stock electrical vehicle can handle.

View attachment 67412

Me thinks you are taking this too personal.

At 2 ohms, the amp delivers approximately 2300 watts, and dynos up to 4k burst, so there is that.

As for the other. MOST people, yes even ones that think they want crazy a$$ shiz like those two drivers on a 5K system, rarely use it anywhere near the max potential - not cruising around anyway,

I qualify everything I advise on, if the OP thinks it doesn't apply to him, that's what the information is all about.

The truth is, adding an aftermarket Alt is not always a simple thing and much more often than not, a wasted endeavor in both time and money given the advancements in battery technology and the relative cost comparatively.

If you don't think that 75amp inside a car isn't loud at almost 112-118db, then homie, you've e been running too much power sitting inside your rig, maybe a bit longer than you should have been.

I don't come here to argue with people, get into pissing matches and confuse the OP's, just providing good solid advice on a regular basis for good measure, and it doesn't have to agree with anyone else, as long as it is sound advice, which it is (no pun intended)

As for clamping, was refereeing to daily use, not tests or competitions. I don't need to provide that I can push the system to close to 125db when I never am going to use it that loud.

Be kind of silly to claim I was clamping 250 amps with a couple of 600 watt RMS subs, right?

Even if I had a couple those subs, likely I would never ever push it to those levels; MOST people don't and that's the point I am making.

You do not have to agree, but it's not wrong because it doesn't comport with your perspective. Truth is, if he's got the big three done, and the GloweVoltage, if it turns out he needs more juice, great, have at it, any alt you want.

I never said you're wrong, I simply stated my perspective and approach, you on the other hand, by disparaging another, simply make matters worse, not better for anyone.

Give it a rest, nobody is the absolute authority on how people use their systems, so the OP can or should be able to make the decision based on good advice, either way.

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

A big reason Taramps amps get such a bad rap is because people think they can run these 3k+ amps on stock electrical. Lithium is fantastic but it's not black magic. It's still just a storage device like any other battery. If voltage is dipping under battery resting voltage there isn't enough amperage coming in from the alternator. OP would have bought some SA-12s and a 1.5k amp and saved alot of money if he was just trying to do 130s.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Why are you still trying to make your point?

Nobody said you were wrong, some just don't see it like you do.

 

[mastershake575 10+ year member]

A big reason Taramps amps get such a bad rap is because people think they can run these 3k+ amps on stock electrical. Lithium is fantastic but it's not black magic. It's still just a storage device like any other battery. If voltage is dipping under battery resting voltage there isn't enough amperage coming in from the alternator. OP would have bought some SA-12s and a 1.5k amp and saved alot of money if he was just trying to do 130s.

Agreed. This thread is a few months old but wanted to point out that I've always thought it was oxymoron that these amplifiers push the narrative of high wattage at budget prices but that's not how it works. These SPL subs are very low efficiency and requires $1000+ in electrical upgrades to really get moving.

For a daily setup with no alternator upgrade you're going to want higher efficiency subs like running dual adire audio shivas 12s or Dayton Audio RS12s. They will have more thermal compression, get louder on less power, and will have better SQ. Could even do a high efficiency single 15 and try to max it out, I remember listening to a single 15 ported JBL WGTI back in the day that was breaking 140db which is plenty loud (sounded great too)

Unless you're building a competition car and going all out, these really big high RMS subs aren't actually practical for most people's setups.

 

[Jimi77 Premium Member]

Agreed. This thread is a few months old but wanted to point out that I've always thought it was oxymoron that these amplifiers push the narrative of high wattage at budget prices but that's not how it works. These SPL subs are very low efficiency and requires $1000+ in electrical upgrades to really get moving.

For a daily setup with no alternator upgrade you're going to want higher efficiency subs like running dual adire audio shivas 12s or Dayton Audio RS12s. They will have more thermal compression, get louder on less power, and will have better SQ. Could even do a high efficiency single 15 and try to max it out, I remember listening to a single 15 ported JBL WGTI back in the day that was breaking 140db which is plenty loud (sounded great too)

Unless you're building a competition car and going all out, these really big high RMS subs aren't actually practical for most people's setups.

Law of diminishing returns.