Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Do I need an electrical upgrade??
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="mastershake575" data-source="post: 8912487" data-attributes="member: 665251"><p>Agreed. This thread is a few months old but wanted to point out that I've always thought it was oxymoron that these amplifiers push the narrative of high wattage at budget prices but that's not how it works. These SPL subs are very low efficiency and requires $1000+ in electrical upgrades to really get moving.</p><p></p><p>For a daily setup with no alternator upgrade you're going to want higher efficiency subs like running dual adire audio shivas 12s or Dayton Audio RS12s. They will have more thermal compression, get louder on less power, and will have better SQ. Could even do a high efficiency single 15 and try to max it out, I remember listening to a single 15 ported JBL WGTI back in the day that was breaking 140db which is plenty loud (sounded great too) </p><p></p><p>Unless you're building a competition car and going all out, these really big high RMS subs aren't actually practical for most people's setups.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mastershake575, post: 8912487, member: 665251"] Agreed. This thread is a few months old but wanted to point out that I've always thought it was oxymoron that these amplifiers push the narrative of high wattage at budget prices but that's not how it works. These SPL subs are very low efficiency and requires $1000+ in electrical upgrades to really get moving. For a daily setup with no alternator upgrade you're going to want higher efficiency subs like running dual adire audio shivas 12s or Dayton Audio RS12s. They will have more thermal compression, get louder on less power, and will have better SQ. Could even do a high efficiency single 15 and try to max it out, I remember listening to a single 15 ported JBL WGTI back in the day that was breaking 140db which is plenty loud (sounded great too) Unless you're building a competition car and going all out, these really big high RMS subs aren't actually practical for most people's setups. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Do I need an electrical upgrade??
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list