Craziest system on stock ALT!!

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

This thread is full of all kinds of gay.

x2...beef up your electrical systems...

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

These guys just dont realize how few of those watts they paid are actually making it to their speakers. It never ceases to amaze me how many people will run out and build a multi-thousand dollar substage, but not have the money to upgrade their freakin power supply to those mega-watt amplifiers. I guess alot of people dont really care if they are getting everything they paid for, so long as they still have their bragging rights.

This entire thread is an attempt to fight the laws of physics. There is no voodoo surrounding how much power is created by your charging system, or in how much power your stereo consumes.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

Maybe Im reading more into what you said than was meant, but if your stock alt cant output the amount of power your stereo can consume, you aren't staying at full charge.
So many of you guys talk about how many watts you are running on your stock alt, like somehow you can break the laws of physics and output more power than your alt can/will produce. Adding batteries will only delay the inevitable, loss of stored energy resulting in voltage drops. Low ESR batts will not change this outcome in any way, low ESR makes the batts more efficient but the laws of physics still apply. You cannot get something for nothing.

I have enough storage for the amount of power I have.

I have explained this so many times recently that my head hurts.

when the car is on, you have a resting voltage of 13.8v to 15v DC (depending on the car. My car rests 14.5v).

When you play your stereo (load starts drawing current) The voltage drops. At this point it will drop to the resting voltage of the batteries. (13v in my case, 12.6v in most cases).

This is when energy is consumed from the batteries.

If voltage drops lower than the resting voltage of the batteries, then the alternator goes to work charging the batteries. The batteries is now what is supplying energy to the amplifiers.

As long as my amplifiers dont draw too much energy from my batteries, then the alternator does not have to work too hard to re-charge them.

All of this works very rapidly, in the matter of milliseconds.

Music is transient and the load is not constant. So my alternator can charge the batteries back up to full and raise running voltage over 14v in the matter of a second during musical play.

Altogether my voltage never drops below 12v DC.

So the alternator never works hard at all.

Because of the low ESR batteries, they charge at about the same rate from 12v to 13v that my OEM batt could charge from 12v to 12.6v.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

These guys just dont realize how few of those watts they paid are actually making it to their speakers. It never ceases to amaze me how many people will run out and build a multi-thousand dollar substage, but not have the money to upgrade their freakin power supply to those mega-watt amplifiers. I guess alot of people dont really care if they are getting everything they paid for, so long as they still have their bragging rights.
This entire thread is an attempt to fight the laws of physics. There is no voodoo surrounding how much power is created by your charging system, or in how much power your stereo consumes.

My subs are getting a realistic 11,000 watts.

My amp puts out much more, but thats what the subs see.

Batteries do wonders when you know how they work. Do some research

 

[Trez0r 10+ year member]

Sig

but the amp went into protection mode, maybe from the stock alt? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I have enough storage for the amount of power I have.
I have explained this so many times recently that my head hurts.

when the car is on, you have a resting voltage of 13.8v to 15v DC (depending on the car. My car rests 14.5v).

When you play your stereo (load starts drawing current) The voltage drops. At this point it will drop to the resting voltage of the batteries. (13v in my case, 12.6v in most cases).

This is when energy is consumed from the batteries.

If voltage drops lower than the resting voltage of the batteries, then the alternator goes to work charging the batteries. The batteries is now what is supplying energy to the amplifiers.

As long as my amplifiers dont draw too much energy from my batteries, then the alternator does not have to work too hard to re-charge them.

All of this works very rapidly, in the matter of milliseconds.

Music is transient and the load is not constant. So my alternator can charge the batteries back up to full and raise running voltage over 14v in the matter of a second during musical play.

Altogether my voltage never drops below 12v DC.

So the alternator never works hard at all.

Because of the low ESR batteries, they charge at about the same rate from 12v to 13v that my OEM batt could charge from 12v to 12.6v.

Your entire theory is based on the idea that the alternator doesn't start working until voltage drops below the resting charge of the batts. That is simply not true. Why do you think the voltage raises from your batts' resting charging, to 14.5v? because the alternator is working. If/when your system voltage drops below that 14.5 voltage, you are over taxing your alternator... drawing more current from the system than the alt can produce, so voltage drops to that of the batts. When this happens, BOTH your alt AND your batt(s) are supply current to the stereo.

My subs are getting a realistic 11,000 watts.My amp puts out much more, but thats what the subs see.

Batteries do wonders when you know how they work. Do some research

Id love for you to tell me where I can research how to draw 11,000 watts from a generator capable of producing 2,000 watts or less. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[Megalomaniac 5,000+ posts]

I have enough storage for the amount of power I have.
I have explained this so many times recently that my head hurts.

when the car is on, you have a resting voltage of 13.8v to 15v DC (depending on the car. My car rests 14.5v).

When you play your stereo (load starts drawing current) The voltage drops. At this point it will drop to the resting voltage of the batteries. (13v in my case, 12.6v in most cases).

This is when energy is consumed from the batteries.

If voltage drops lower than the resting voltage of the batteries, then the alternator goes to work charging the batteries. The batteries is now what is supplying energy to the amplifiers.

As long as my amplifiers dont draw too much energy from my batteries, then the alternator does not have to work too hard to re-charge them.

All of this works very rapidly, in the matter of milliseconds.

Music is transient and the load is not constant. So my alternator can charge the batteries back up to full and raise running voltage over 14v in the matter of a second during musical play.

Altogether my voltage never drops below 12v DC.

So the alternator never works hard at all.

Because of the low ESR batteries, they charge at about the same rate from 12v to 13v that my OEM batt could charge from 12v to 12.6v.

Diminishing Return applies a lot, I think you are overlooking. The more batteries you have the more load your alty will see. It can put a strain on it when you are banging at 11kwatts. Let me ask you this. With the car off and just running on batteries how long does your stereo last for without giving up? Now with the car on sure the alty is still on, but with a low output alty youll gain some time playing longer but in the end youll be dipping into the battery more than the alty can keep with.

I dont see why you would spend a few hundred dollars on a battery(multip few hundreds if you buy more batteries) when you can just as easy spend that money towards an alty.

Right now I am using an a cheap interstate battery I got from Sears. I have a 200a alty. I have seen no issues on my car. I am running a NINe.5 which is a bit of a current hog. I see no dimming whatsever or any signs of struggles

for a world finalist i don't see how you haven't taken Basic Physics 101

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

No, lets spend hundreds of dollars, add hundreds of pounds of weight to our cars, and take up large amounts of the storage space for these banks of batteries.... so we can avoid spending a few hundred bucks on a H.O. alternator. That makes total sense right?

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

No, lets spend hundreds of dollars, add hundreds of pounds of weight to our cars, and take up large amounts of the storage space for these banks of batteries.... so we can avoid spending a few hundred bucks on a H.O. alternator. That makes total sense right?

I have sponsorship on batteries but no alternator yet. The alternator is still being designed for my car.

My theory is not that the alternator does not work until voltage drops to battery resting voltage, just that it does not work any distinguishable amount more than the factory parameters.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

Diminishing Return applies a lot, I think you are overlooking. The more batteries you have the more load your alty will see. It can put a strain on it when you are banging at 11kwatts. Let me ask you this. With the car off and just running on batteries how long does your stereo last for without giving up? Now with the car on sure the alty is still on, but with a low output alty youll gain some time playing longer but in the end youll be dipping into the battery more than the alty can keep with.
I dont see why you would spend a few hundred dollars on a battery(multip few hundreds if you buy more batteries) when you can just as easy spend that money towards an alty.

Right now I am using an a cheap interstate battery I got from Sears. I have a 200a alty. I have seen no issues on my car. I am running a NINe.5 which is a bit of a current hog. I see no dimming whatsever or any signs of struggles

for a world finalist i don't see how you haven't taken Basic Physics 101

The total resistance of my battery bank is almost the same as the resistance as a single OEM battery. Actually a few tenths lower.

So the load is no more than my factory battery.

I do not run the stereo with the car off unless I have a charger on it. So I do not have the time Data.

 

[Megalomaniac 5,000+ posts]

I have sponsorship on batteries but no alternator yet. The alternator is still being designed for my car.
My theory is not that the alternator does not work until voltage drops to battery resting voltage, just that it does not work any distinguishable amount more than the factory parameters.

i see. so amps rating their power 12v and 14.4v is meaning less?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I have sponsorship on batteries but no alternator yet. The alternator is still being designed for my car.
My theory is not that the alternator does not work until voltage drops to battery resting voltage, just that it does not work any distinguishable amount more than the factory parameters.

And your theory is incorrect. Again, the simple fact that system voltage drops below the alt's resting voltage (14.5v in your case) tells us that the alt is producing at its maximum potential. If it wasn't, it would simply increase output to avoid the voltage drop.
Do some research.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

i see. so amps rating their power 12v and 14.4v is meaning less?

Not meaningless, but if your voltage drops to 12v then you are not getting your 14.4v rating out of that amp.

 

[Ed Lester 10+ year member]

And your theory is incorrect. Again, the simple fact that system voltage drops below the alt's resting voltage (14.5v in your case) tells us that the alt is producing at its maximum potential. If it wasn't, it would simply increase output to avoid the voltage drop.
Do some research.

I dont think my theory is incorrect at all.

When testing current draw between my alty and battery bank, I see no more than 30A of draw.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I dont think my theory is incorrect at all.When testing current draw between my alty and battery bank, I see no more than 30A of draw.

So the alternator allows system voltage to drop to that of battery voltage, even when it has more output potential to give? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Now you are suggesting your batts only require 30 amps to maintain a full charge even when your stereo is drawing (presumably) alot more current than that. Again you seem to think you can get something for nothing. All electrical power from your charging system came initially from the alternator. No where else, just the alt.

Your theory is incorrect. Sorry man.