Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

everything I said was relevant, you are just too blind to understand. Good luck with your forever sh*t voltage.
My voltage is fine now, thanks. Talking down to someone is not relevant. Assumptions are not relevant. You did both of those things... however, the car audio related comments you made, I gave their due attention and I thank you for them. My feelings are not hurt and I am sorry if yours are. It is not my intention to bash you but rather to get unbiased opinions.

 
Thanks to anyone that is helping. The Vehicle is a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L. It is fully loaded which is why it had the "High Output" factory 136 amp alternator. This is one of the years that Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep put the voltage regulator in the computer instead of in the alternator or externally on a firewall or fender. To the others... I am not being "hard headed" or a "Know it all", I was asking opinions and was met with condescending remarks and assumptions about what I know, don't know, what I have or have not done. So if it looks like I am hard headed because I am arguing with ignorant comments then I am sorry you feel that way. Hopefully any useful information can be seen by any other readers with similar issues or questions. I am not an SPL competitor and could care less about trying to impress anyone else with how loud my woofers get. I am a person that after I trouble shoot something and get stumped, I will ASK someone who also knows what they are talking about. I may be having a brain fart, over looked something or may just not know. So getting opinions is a good thing and can be helpful. If you hit 145+ db then good for you. Not my goal, however, before I got rid of my JBL 12's I hit 139db at a friendly local meet in Columbus Ohio in this very same vehicle. No extra batteries, different amps (Alpine) and the stock alternator with the same cap I have now.
On to my issue or missed item when I trouble shot the system BEFORE I posted. It was a ground issue. The 0awg ground from the alternator case to the battery negative was loose on the alternator case from the last time I freshened up my connections. Basically the only solid ground to the battery at that point was a factory 4awg wire... and it was getting warm. I missed it because it is a pain to see/reach. Simple mistake that ANYONE could make. Voltage is stable now. I'd like to apologize if I offended anyone and I would like to squash it if you are cool with it... if not, it is what it is.

My old subs and enclosure that I built, tuned to 27.5hz roughly. It weighed over 200lbs with the subs installed which is one of the reasons I downsized to a single 12, then to a single 10. I'm just not a basshead anymore. I like bass but I am happy just hearing the music now.

Resized_20160828_002340_zpsmiprgja3.jpg
cool glad u found it.. subs/box look good.. 139 at 27hz is good on moderate power.. maybe when u go to single u can try sundown sa 12 or ab xfl tuned around 35 hz not quite as low but louder since just 1 sub..

 
My voltage is fine now, thanks. Talking down to someone is not relevant. Assumptions are not relevant. You did both of those things... however, the car audio related comments you made, I gave their due attention and I thank you for them. My feelings are not hurt and I am sorry if yours are. It is not my intention to bash you but rather to get unbiased opinions.
I’m glad you got it figured out ..bad gnds can get you sometimes ...

 
cool glad u found it.. subs/box look good.. 139 at 27hz is good on moderate power.. maybe when u go to single u can try sundown sa 12 or ab xfl tuned around 35 hz not quite as low but louder since just 1 sub..
I already went to a single sub. My Punch P3D4 10". The box is tuned to 42hz. The response is more narrow in the frequency range compared to the single 12" I was using. The crossover on the sub amp is all the way up to the highest frequency and my head unit is crossed over at 120hz and it still does not hit all the frequencies the punch P2D4 hit and it was crossed over at 100hz. I gave the 12 to my sister and she is rocking it now. I love the 10 but I may go back up to a single 12" or buy another 10 and build a box with 1.6 cubic feet per sub and tune it to about 36 - 38hz's.

 
I already went to a single sub. My Punch P3D4 10". The box is tuned to 42hz. The response is more narrow in the frequency range compared to the single 12" I was using. The crossover on the sub amp is all the way up to the highest frequency and my head unit is crossed over at 120hz and it still does not hit all the frequencies the punch P2D4 hit and it was crossed over at 100hz. I gave the 12 to my sister and she is rocking it now. I love the 10 but I may go back up to a single 12" or buy another 10 and build a box with 1.6 cubic feet per sub and tune it to about 36 - 38hz's.
yeah u missing the lows try 12" sa in 1.8cf depending on power or even pioneer 3003 pro (pretty loud on 1.65cfad tuned at 36hz 900rms)

 
He’s missing the low end from being tuned that high.
True... I looked at a few enclosures but used this one because I had it laying around. It's a solid box with a 1" baffle. It does drop off sharp below around 32 -35hz. Acoustic upright bass sounds awesome as well as Metal, Rock, Old school rap (N.W.A., 2 Live Crew), Clean music. My HU is limited on the music it can play from a USB device. The highest quality I can and do play is WAV PCM 16bit Stereo 44100Hz. I don't use the CD player. At normal volume levels that are tolerable (90 - 105db) the system is pretty clear and full. It is amazing how important the actual sub enclosure is to the overall sound of the system. When I had my JBL 12's in that huge box tuned way down low and listened to Stepenwolf's Magic Carpet Ride, the bass guitar was so loud and deep that it was almost intolerable. It was the same thing with Judas Priest's Turbo Lover... the bass guitar was so overwhelming. With the single 12 there was a good blend but it didn't drop as low... the single 10, I can barely feel the bass guitar from those two songs... I can hear it but that punch it used to have is gone.

 
Was bored today so I went out to play with my stereo yet again...

1. Found out the front right midrange was not working, only the tweeter was working.

2. Found the reason my sub was only producing a narrow band of bass.

3. Using reference tones, reset the gains on both amps.

Apparently the window made contact with my speaker wires in the door and disconnected the wires. I remember putting the window all the way down like 3 minutes after I originally installed the speakers. I never listened to them in the passenger seat after I put the window down. I just figured it was my poor hearing in my right ear and paid it no mind as I could hear the tweeter and assumed all was normal. Tis fixed now and the window does not interfere. Time alignment sure is different now lol. The subwoofer... holy crap. Ok, the box is tuned to 42hz... somehow the punch eq was cranked all the way up. That's plus 18db @45hz!!! So basically my bass was spiked high in the 40's.

I set my volume on the HU to 33 out of 35 (From my research this particular model is good up to full volume). I set EVERYTHING to flat or zero or just plain no boost of any kind. I don't use bass boost or loudness on my HU ever anyway. Punch EQ is now all the way off. Since my box is tuned to 42hz and that is probably the loudest range it will play naturally, I used a 40hz (16bit 44100hz PCM WAV) and adjusted the gain to 40.1v. The sub is at 2ohms. Sub amp done. On to Barbara Ann. Same situation here but with a 1000hz (16bit 44100hz PCM WAV) and set the front gain (My Components - 4ohms) to 20.2v and the rear gain (My Coaxials - 4ohms) to 19.8v. She's done.

Time alignment set to the drivers seat. The HU is taking care of all the distances on its own. I put my HU EQ setting back to the stored settings I had previously and it sounds so much better. It helps having that other door speaker working lol. The subwoofer level on the HU is set to 0db. The bass... holy cow, yeah, unboosting that 45hz allowed me to hear the bass above and below 45hz so much better. I was drowning it out for sure. I don't know how or why my Punch EQ was all the way up. Everything is 5 by 5 now.

When I scrap the Jeep I will be transferring everything to the new vehicle where I will then do the proper install. By then I will have the matching US Acoustics "Mike" amp. I have so much crap waiting for the new vehicle, 200ft of (100ft each of red and black and blue and black Sky High OFC 14awg) speaker wire, 20ft (10ft each of red and black and blue and black Sky High OFC 8awg) speaker wire, 100ft of tesa tape, 4 -dual 1/0 ground blocks, nylon cable straps for speaker wires and power cables, grommets, connectors, acoustic speaker rings, sound deadening... anything I could think of I have been stockpiling.

Here is my tiny ten.

20180608_155804_1.jpg


 
I couldnt be able to tell you how much Ive been stock piling over the years.After about 15+ years of buying and selling, I finally figured out I have enough now. LOL

 
I couldnt be able to tell you how much Ive been stock piling over the years.After about 15+ years of buying and selling, I finally figured out I have enough now. LOL
It's never enough lol I still have one of my Punch 250aII amps I bought way back in the late 90's, gonna mount it on the wall.

 
I know everybody and their mothers are quick to say "don't waste your money on a cap, buy an AGM or second battery" and that is fine if you don't mind running more cables, securing the second battery for safety, the added weight of an extra battery(s), the cost of quality, multiple batteries and so on. I am not against running a second battery, not by a long shot. However if/when I decide to do that then it becomes an investment because I won't be buying 1 battery for the rear, I will be buying two of the exact same batteries. The OEM size for the vehicle and the exact same battery for the system.

Since I have a "small", "modest" system and I don't want to spend the money on batteries, I am upgrading my capacitor. I am removing the 2 Farad "band-aid" stinger cap and installing my SPC5010 Stinger 10 Farad hybrid cap. Weighs less than a battery, cost me less than a battery and looks cool. Anyway... here it is.

35236415_1950531671656499_5912458619693039616_o.jpg


 
the fuck?? how is it cheaper? that sh*t is 160 bucks. You dont have to get a group 31 battery even though a sam's club duracell platinum (deka intimadator) is about 180 that will literally be like installing 1000 of those stinger caps... You can get a much more compact battery for less than 100 that will still outright destroy that stinger cap... literally makes zero sense paying for that snake oil err i mean cap.

 
Why oh why on earth would I ever get an automotive battery designed to start a car and make it run a stereo system???? They make batteries designed for stereo systems. If I invest in a multi battery system, they will be the right kind of batteries. It was $138 shipped. The batteries I was looking at are like $320 per battery.

 
For the most part a battery is a battery. Find decent cca and reserve

Those deka batteries have been proven to support a few thousand watts alone

Also You can throw a battery in the rear and use it without replacing your front battery although it is good to use both as agm. (Again I know many people who mix agm and wet cells and they work fine)

You could even put a smaller $100 agm in there and that would be better than that cap

A super cap bank costs about $250 and is around 350F. Those are good to help support roughly 3kw with other supporting modifications

 
Why oh why on earth would I ever get an automotive battery designed to start a car and make it run a stereo system???? They make batteries designed for stereo systems. If I invest in a multi battery system, they will be the right kind of batteries. It was $138 shipped. The batteries I was looking at are like $320 per battery.
You are the one with many years of experience. Teach us.

You don’t need any support with that setup.

 
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