I don't need to Copy and Paste anything... that is knowledge accumulated from decades of dealing with car audio. Ok Steve Meade fan boy... when HE uses his OWN DESIGNED DD-1, he uses test tones!!!!! 40hz, 1000hz!!!! Sign waves!!!! Why???? Because you can't accurately set gains with music. Your argument is pointless. I never said I set my gains with music... go get some sleep.
you didnt read jack sh*t. Its literally how I dismantle the DD-1 and prove its a garbage buy and a noob trap. If you have decades of dealing with car audio you wouldn't say stupid sh*t as drawing 200 amps of current nor that a capacitor is helpful, nor that you have a 150 amp alt and dropping to 10-11 volts Along with having legit ZERO understanding of how music recording level directly affects amplifier power output. Talk about 28 years of car audio cluelessness. Holy fuck
Oh dear lord. You are right. I stopped my knowledge intake in 1993. I don't know anything about electricity, car stereos, or music. I will go and dismantle the stereo in my Jeep, I will remove all my recording software from my computer and throw away my guitars, and I shall put my stock alternator back in. No... wait, That's right... This was about class A/B amplifiers and if they draw more current than class D amplifiers. Here is what I think. I think that it is pulling and does pull more current because it is less efficient. After I set my gains... with a DMM and adjust a few things I will re-evaluate if anything else needs to be done. By the way, my idle voltage is 14.1V at the amplifiers with no music playing and the engine rotating at 700rpms. That's revolutions per minute. Revolutions are complete rotations... rotations are when something spins on an axis... an axis is a central pivot or rotation point
Oh good, I'm not late to the party
Did you measure the 200 amperage yourself? How did you come up with that figure number on such a small modest system? Even if your pushing everything to it's limit, bet it's not even close to 200.
Oh I will argue with him. I ask you what you meant because you ask about my electrical, all of which is in my sig. I was clarifying so that YOU and I were on the same page. It was nothing offensive to you nor a lack of knowledge on my part. I won't argue that he is smart, I don't know him other than him making some ignorant or presumptuous statements about me. But that's fine. I was looking for an answer, possibly some suggestions from other car audio enthusiast as I am not so arrogant as to think I know all about everything like some people.Oh good, I'm not late to the party
Well, you did question me regarding your electrical...which tells me you had no clue what I was talking about.
Oh, btw, don't argue with Jeff.....one of the smartest persons on here.
To answer your questions... how many amps would it take to make 1000w rms at 40hz? How many amps would it take to make 400w rms at 1000hz? My stock alternator for this Jeep WAS 136amps. It is now only 150amps. A Stock group 34 battery that is 2 weeks old.
Well I think it's kinda funny you had to ask what I meant. Being in the industry for 28 yrs and you asked what did I mean tells me you have no clue....no idea what I was talking about.
A poor connection, corrosion, the type of wire being used, the diameter or gauge of the wire, and the distance between the source and the load can all cause resistance in wiring.
Again... my electrical was and is in my sig. I ask you because I find it hard to believe YOU didn't read it and were actually asking me... so I clarified. I did not say IN THE INDUSTRY. I said I have been dealing with car audio since 1990. Are you two roommates or something? Geez. You know what, I will deal with my car audio, he can deal with all the deafness from all his bass and thank you for your input.
