Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

My attitude is fine. I deal with "know it all's" all day long. I don't sweat it. Honestly, 0awg OFC from front to back to 4awg OFC... Sky High battery terminals, copper ring terminals (soldered and crimped) Solid grounds to bare metal, all of which are 0awg... I appreciate your assessment but I think its good on the cables... I just think that perhaps only 14 extra amps from the aftermarket alternator over the stock one and the additional load of two amplifiers just doesn't cut it. I can't believe it took me arguing on this site with you two too see that... wow, I guess you two did help bounce that out of my head. I thank the both of you.

 
"Know it all's" lol. We "know it all" because we've "done it all".

This is coming from someone who can't figure out voltage issues when it could be as simple as turning the gain down. So instead of saying ok I'll give that a shot, you continue to run your mouth and give us crap. You're welcome is no longer wanted here.

 
I don’t see the voltage issue

So you’re dropping to 12v on a 12v system...

A/b amps can draw a lot of current yes

You don’t want to set any gain with a dmm because recording levels change too much

One track could be hard clipping the next hard to hear (extreme example)

You need to be able to adjust your listening level for different music

I crank my sub level for metal and drop it down for bass music

 
I don’t see the voltage issue
So you’re dropping to 12v on a 12v system...

A/b amps can draw a lot of current yes

You don’t want to set any gain with a dmm because recording levels change too much

One track could be hard clipping the next hard to hear (extreme example)

You need to be able to adjust your listening level for different music

I crank my sub level for metal and drop it down for bass music
Using the DDM is ok if you know the amp makes rated power and you do not use a 0db tone. Any way you use you still have to use your ears. It’s just a safety.

 
My attitude is fine. I deal with "know it all's" all day long. I don't sweat it. Honestly, 0awg OFC from front to back to 4awg OFC... Sky High battery terminals, copper ring terminals (soldered and crimped) Solid grounds to bare metal, all of which are 0awg... I appreciate your assessment but I think its good on the cables... I just think that perhaps only 14 extra amps from the aftermarket alternator over the stock one and the additional load of two amplifiers just doesn't cut it. I can't believe it took me arguing on this site with you two too see that... wow, I guess you two did help bounce that out of my head. I thank the both of you.
Looks like a nice setup ..what vehicle is this in ? If it was mentioned before I missed it

 
Using the DDM is ok if you know the amp makes rated power and you do not use a 0db tone. Any way you use you still have to use your ears. It’s just a safety.
I set my gain with a -6db tone and the bass in white girl was not loud. Turned the gain up unit it stopped getting louder and backed it down a bit and never set with a dmm again

I don’t even want to know how quiet any tool song would have been

Op imo remove that cap add a second agm battery back there and you will be much happier

 
OP is a dbag! Ask for help and Jeff helps him but yet the OP won’t hear it and knows everything. Let this thread die and let the OP leave the forum. Don’t need another papermaker know it all

 
To sum it up

Yes ab amps are inefficient and draw beacoup power

The op has not read any real reviews on typical capacitors I the last decade

The op has electrical problems somewhere to be dropping so low. Prolly a bad ground

The op is so hard headed that he must've done everything right the first time yet still has to come and ask question here

Btw I'm pulling 220amps if I run a full sinewave through my system and with my 150amp alt I don't drop below 13.5v

And I don't have and capacitor

 
Again... my electrical was and is in my sig. I ask you because I find it hard to believe YOU didn't read it and were actually asking me... so I clarified. I did not say IN THE INDUSTRY. I said I have been dealing with car audio since 1990. Are you two roommates or something? Geez. You know what, I will deal with my car audio, he can deal with all the deafness from all his bass and thank you for your input.
wow this was a lot.. jeff knows what he's talking about man (read his sig) check that ground make sure no rust under it (maybe just re-sand and look at wire (ends power and all) as far as caps i think u be better off with just a 1 battery in back instead.. as far as the gain just back it down 10% see if that helps at all..

 
Thanks to anyone that is helping. The Vehicle is a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4.0L. It is fully loaded which is why it had the "High Output" factory 136 amp alternator. This is one of the years that Chrysler, Dodge and Jeep put the voltage regulator in the computer instead of in the alternator or externally on a firewall or fender. To the others... I am not being "hard headed" or a "Know it all", I was asking opinions and was met with condescending remarks and assumptions about what I know, don't know, what I have or have not done. So if it looks like I am hard headed because I am arguing with ignorant comments then I am sorry you feel that way. Hopefully any useful information can be seen by any other readers with similar issues or questions. I am not an SPL competitor and could care less about trying to impress anyone else with how loud my woofers get. I am a person that after I trouble shoot something and get stumped, I will ASK someone who also knows what they are talking about. I may be having a brain fart, over looked something or may just not know. So getting opinions is a good thing and can be helpful. If you hit 145+ db then good for you. Not my goal, however, before I got rid of my JBL 12's I hit 139db at a friendly local meet in Columbus Ohio in this very same vehicle. No extra batteries, different amps (Alpine) and the stock alternator with the same cap I have now.

On to my issue or missed item when I trouble shot the system BEFORE I posted. It was a ground issue. The 0awg ground from the alternator case to the battery negative was loose on the alternator case from the last time I freshened up my connections. Basically the only solid ground to the battery at that point was a factory 4awg wire... and it was getting warm. I missed it because it is a pain to see/reach. Simple mistake that ANYONE could make. Voltage is stable now. I'd like to apologize if I offended anyone and I would like to squash it if you are cool with it... if not, it is what it is.

My old subs and enclosure that I built, tuned to 27.5hz roughly. It weighed over 200lbs with the subs installed which is one of the reasons I downsized to a single 12, then to a single 10. I'm just not a basshead anymore. I like bass but I am happy just hearing the music now.

Resized_20160828_002340_zpsmiprgja3.jpg


 
OP is a dbag! Ask for help and Jeff helps him but yet the OP won’t hear it and knows everything. Let this thread die and let the OP leave the forum. Don’t need another papermaker know it all
Michigan... now I see where your comment is coming from... I am a Buckeye. I know your struggle is real lol. I'm teasing... Ignorant comments from Jeff was not helping nor was his assumptions.

 
Michigan... now I see where your comment is coming from... I am a Buckeye. I know your struggle is real lol. I'm teasing... Ignorant comments from Jeff was not helping nor was his assumptions.
everything I said was relevant, you are just too blind to understand. Good luck with your forever sh*t voltage.

 
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