Adding Amp to Factory Stereo - Line Out Converter

[Southern_Exposu]

Hi - new here !

For the first time ever, I have a vehicle I cannot jack with too much. It's a lease and I may or may not buy it so I'm thinking about adding an amp and a pair of low power sealed 10s in the hatch area (2016 Ford Escape SE) via LOC from the rear speakers. I have zero experience with this, I have always used an aftermarket deck and it's really straight forward.

So here are my questions:

1. Am i cutting the pos & neg wires to the rear speakers or tapping into them? Knowing that all my typical systems have never had rears, I'm thinking I want to disconnect the rears completely and that signal goes to the LOC. I only ask because I saw video where someone tapped into the signal. But in my case, I don't think I want rears with a sub.
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2. These LOCs go from $6 all the way to over $100. I've seen recommended ones from $8 up to $80. The more you spend the more features, which I get. They all have different maxes for input (?) wattage. 10W - 200W per channel. There's no way a stock non-upgraded radio in my Ford Escape would have that kind of power. So I'm assuming these higher wattage limitations are for people tapping into existing high power systems or upgraded factory systems that maybe have an amplifier? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
   

These are the ones I'm considering, I'll spend as much as I need but if $8 or $20 works then I'm good with that also. Appreciate your thoughts.

NVX XPLOC2 - $20 https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46220_NVX-XPLOC2.html

PAC SNI-35 - $8 https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5265_PAC-SNI-35.html

AudioControl LC2i - $80 https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43567_AudioControl-LC2i-Ships-as-New-Black-Version.html

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[P0234]

The nice thing about the LC2i is that it attempts to resolve the issue of bass roll off at higher volumes with factory stereos. It isn't a true dsp so it isn't perfect but a lot of people seem to like them instead of the cheaper options. Using taps on the rear speakers is fine on a lease that you want to have minimal impact on. Otherwise you can sometimes get terminal adapters for the factory speakers. Crutchfield carries them.

 

[Southern_Exposu]

I figured. I wasn't sure what factory radios suffered from this roll off. I'm guessing Ford is no exception. I was leaning that way as it seems solid and well reviewed.

Thanks for your comment.

 

[moparnut]

I'll second the recommendation for the LC2i. It's a great unit that makes the integration easier. Both 5 star car audio and CAF have videos on setting it up on youtube.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

These scotch locks work perfect for this.

https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Scotch-Connectors-Terminals-Electrical/dp/B00YO8RIXQ

My old SHO had a sound system control module in the trunk so I could easily tap into speaker wires and run signal to the amps just a couple feet away. No idea if they're still using that lay out. There was also a remote turn on at the same module.

LOC -- I spent ~$20 on a Scosche 4 ch and have been living with a noise issue in my van that I think may be LOC related. Spending a little on a good LOC would be a wise decision IMO.

 

[evilmonstertruk Premium Member]

Save yourself some time and get the Rockford dsr1. Sounds great, plug and play and is a dsp

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