Class A/B pulling more current than my Class D???

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

its all good buddy. I went a bit overboard with the roasting, bad habit my bad. You are officially initiated into the forum

 

[youdoofus]

its all good buddy. I went a bit overboard with the roasting, bad habit my bad. You are officially initiated into the forum

does that mean he is now allowed to get the forum gang tattoo?

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Sweet. Now my Birthday has new meaning!!

 

[Jcsaudio]

ThxOne, you’ve come up with some pretty dam good rebuttals there man. Gotta give that one to you! I’ve been thrown into the fire here too, kind of an explosive atmosphere here.

Welcome to the forum

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Thanks Jcsaudio... I'm going to work on my responses though... and mellow out a bit.

 

[staan]

The issue was never related to my Cap. It wasn't then, isn't now and won't be in the future. There was a loose ground that wasn't visible and that is not the easiest ground to get to. Because IT WAS IN FACT LOOSE, voltage was dropping on my voltage gauge when upper bass and mids were playing which is handled by my CLASS A/B amp. After looking my system over and MISSING the loose ground, I came on here, to the experts... I forgot that because someone is an expert or has great knowledge, they become condescending know it all's and everyone is beneath them and their massive amount of knowledge and experience which apparently makes them aggressive and rude and the only way for the pain to stop is to be rude when they "help" others. SOMEONE mentioned grounds...

So after being into the hobby for so long was the ground never tight? I ask this cause you came on here asking if your voltage situation was normal, meaning its always been like that for you and your asking if its common. So either you installed the ground loose and the systems been behaving like that the whole time and you found your mistake and corrected it. It also seems possible there was no loose ground and you bought a bigger cap thinking it will fix your voltage problem which the people have tried to help you realize and fix from the beginning. It's not condescending and knowitall to tell someone that bs marketing products don't work, it's actually helpful. But i guess if it goes against your opinionated views you get hostile towards it.

5 farads of capacitance will run a head unit by itself for less than 10 seconds, one bass hit from a 1200 watt amp will drain your new cap almost instantly, so by adding it you are actually adding overall current draw to your system by having to constantly refill that cap.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Periodically I check, clean and re-tighten my connections if needed. Upon doing this, I neglected one of my grounds. The ground from the Alt case to the battery. At this point the only ground to the battery was a small factory ground. I found the issue, fixed it and my voltage was fine again. Your opinion is that caps are a marketing scam... that is your opinion and you are entitled to it. I won't force my opinion on you. It is 10 farad, not 5. Since it is your opinion that I have just added another current draw to my system with my small cap then you must concede that adding a larger, slower charging, higher capacitance battery is doing the same thing but on a grander scale? Right?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Periodically I check, clean and re-tighten my connections if needed. Upon doing this, I neglected one of my grounds. The ground from the Alt case to the battery. At this point the only ground to the battery was a small factory ground. I found the issue, fixed it and my voltage was fine again. Your opinion is that caps are a marketing scam... that is your opinion and you are entitled to it. I won't force my opinion on you. It is 10 farad, not 5. Since it is your opinion that I have just added another current draw to my system with my small cap then you must concede that adding a larger, slower charging, higher capacitance battery is doing the same thing but on a grander scale? Right?

Again. You should not need a cap or a battery.

And the cap theory is proven. If you look inside then the cap is surrounded by filler. The cap itself is the same size as the ones inside your amps. Therefor. It is a gimmick.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

So Stinger is selling products that are not what they say they are? Since when is Stinger not a reputable American company?

 

[Clifff150 10+ year member]

One thing to commend the OP for is the amazing use of punctuation. Your responses were very long but very easy to read and I can't thank you enough for that haha.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I'm going to have to get an darn battery aren't I?

I have had this Jeep for over 4 years. It's a hunk of crap, a beater plain and simple. There have been and are electrical gremlins. I had a 1996 Nissan 200sx with a factory alternator and stock style battery running a 4awg power wire to the back. I ran two 12" JBL's in a ported box with a JBL Crown amp. A 1 farad Monster cap. Not once ever did a light dim or voltage drop and those 12's hit hard. Maybe it's time to let the Jeep go.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

without actual clamp testing and current measures with a fluke meter we honestly cant really tell but in almost all cases the traditional 1-100 cap doesnt really help much, not unless its these kinds of caps coupled with a high output alternator. About 3000 farads per piece. We do use caps but if the setup's alternator cant keep up in the first place, the cap itself pretty useless. If the alt can keep up than the setup doesnt really need the cap either. The setups involving these ultracaps require extremely fast high powered discharge for a single burp and these caps store a lot of power and dump a lot of power and i mean A LOT of power. You can actually get several thousand farads of a smaller bank for the same price as the 10 farad stinger cap and for sure you will notice a giant difference with those. They are industry regulated too compared to car audio where there's literally zero regulations so the farads you getting are actual TRUE farads. There's a lot better things you can get for your money nowadays bang for buck wise and overall performance to cost wise. Same with welding cable, from a proper source its just as flexible as car audio cable but the quality of copper is much higher and the wire is industry regulated while car audio cable has zero regulations and the welding cable is 1.6 dollars a foot for 1/0 and 2 dollars for 2/0 while car audio cables are 4-8 dollars a foot for inferior 1/0 unregulated wire. Car audio is an unregulated world of manufacturer lies and marketing sadly.

ps i'm not using my condescending tone, I'm legit just having a normal conversation here....

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

I'm following what you are saying, thanks. I have been reading, and reading and reading some more today. For the last almost 8 years or so I dealt with being in relationships and barely paid attention to car audio. Now I am focusing on me and I am much happier. I have some disposable income and why not, let's try one of those batteries. You see what I have for amplifiers, cables and alternator... What specific battery would you suggest? I am all ears and open to suggestions. Also, I live in an area that has nothing but I am able to cross the boarder into Jacksonville Florida.

1. What battery?

2. Expected cost?

3. Where can I get it? Sam's Club is not an option. No membership or access to anyone with a membership.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm following what you are saying, thanks. I have been reading, and reading and reading some more today. For the last almost 8 years or so I dealt with being in relationships and barely paid attention to car audio. Now I am focusing on me and I am much happier. I have some disposable income and why not, let's try one of those batteries. You see what I have for amplifiers, cables and alternator... What specific battery would you suggest? I am all ears and open to suggestions. Also, I live in an area that has nothing but I am able to cross the boarder into Jacksonville Florida.
1. What battery?

2. Expected cost?

3. Where can I get it? Sam's Club is not an option. No membership or access to anyone with a membership.

oreilly, autozone, advanced auto, nappa, as long as they have the words platinum AGM in their name. Bring a multi-meter with you and make sure you pick the one thats higher resting voltage, it means that the place actually maintains their batteries through a trickle charger so it should be good to last longer. Sears diehard platinum is a rebadge of odyssey batteries which is an upper tier car audio battery brand a group 31 will be over 200 for these kinds but you can get a smaller size for less.

 

[ThxOne Premium Member]

Thanks Jeffdachef. I will pick one up this weekend. As a former employee of 3 different auto parts houses, (AA, AZ, Or) I can tell you we never maintained the batteries. If they were there too long, we sent them back. I will start at the front of the Jeep first. A group 34 or 34/78 AGM. Most likely from Oreil... I think East Penn (Deka) still makes their SuperStart Extreme AGM batteries.