what kind of wood is he using?
For THIS build, I'm using 3/4 spruce plywood (normal grade), need strength and light weight. For a sub box, I'd use MDF of course- but THIS sub box had to be light AND strong. MDF would just disintegrate trying to screw into the endgrain and the roughness of plywood gives the resin a better bite than the smooth surface of the MDF- which would just de-laminate the top layer of sawdust from the main material.
So- this box, is 3/4 ply, with matt & cloth fiberglass( MANY layers), inside AND outside. Then expanding foam between the outter wrap and the baffle boards- to prevent any 'reedvalve' oscillations. Then, glassed inside with 2x4's for support AND 2 layers of rubberized rocker guard to 'seal' the fiberglass and help to make airtight.
The 8x 12" subs weigh over 240 pounds - speakers alone! Total is just under 400lbs, so I wanted to make sure they wouldnt collapse when hitting a speedbump! So, the inside is braced vertical with 2x4's. This build has 6 gallons of resin and 5 gallons of bondo. 5- 4x8 foot sheets of 3/4 plywood and various thickness' of MDF for trims and amp pods etc. Over 200 sq ft of fiberglass cloth & matt. 45 sq ft of VB2 sound deadening. 50 pounds of steel in the skeleton cage & brackets.
A 1000 amp battery is under the hood and 2 yellow Top Optimas (one in each corner of the box), made this a tricky enclosure,( no place under the hood for 2 additional batteries and dont want anything in the truk bed).
Desinged the box with clearance to be able to pull the batts out in case of emergency, AND the subs are very deep with Triple stacked magnets, so wanted to be able to have full front seat front to back travel AND retain the recline ability. Set the subs as far back as possible- the magnets are only about 1/4 inch from the battery notches- but the subs are angled, so the pole piece vent isnt right tight against the wood surface. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif