Big Dave + 8 IXL-12's = :drool:

[Fuknmovin 10+ year member]

Hhhhoooooollllllyyyyy Chit!!

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

Here's the work done on the door pods:

This really ***** - you can see how the door moldings are not the same

Work done on the rear of the pods

The finished product

 

[evanhurford 10+ year member]

Rediculous

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

Here's some shots and a little writeup from Dave on the amplifier canopy he built for this install:

Canopy steel frame- 40 pounds of ceiling amps are bolted into welded nuts, attached to a 1 1/4 steel angle frame, that HANGS from the Factory Tethered seat belt bolt mounts at the front; spans to the rear of the cab where the 1.5" flat bar extends over the back of the 1.5 inch ply rear wall (thus- hanging again- for additional support. Mechanically - the amps can not fall).

 

From the top of the canopy, the horizontal amps are mounted to a 1" sq steel tubing skeleton, which ties the top, amp pods and rear wall together - hanging from the top steel mounted frame as well as the shear support on the rear wall. This skeleton also mounts the DVD screens on each side.

 

The 3/4" angle steel, center floating amp rack is bolted with 1/2" bolts, through the 3 layers of 3/4 ply (into T-nuts) AND supported underneath from the sub box structure.

 

In the sub box build pics- you will see a 4x9" 'platform' in the center of the box - tying the 2 front and top speaker baffles together, anchored into the center divider of the sub box and fiberglassed from the top and underneath, making the entire structure, interdependent, from floor to ceiling.

 

The back 1.5" ply wall is anchored into the back of the truck cab, at the factory seat belt mount locations, and the upper shoulder belts and bottom factory bench seat mount locations also.

 

From this wall, the canopy is bolted with 8x1/2" bolts, and HUNG from the tethered seat belt locations. So the amps themselves don't rely on the wood structure for support, but rather the steel structure, attached to the factory belt mount locations - strongest points in the truck cab.

 

The wood basically is cosmetic and used to attach the trims and fiberglass components. This design SHOULD be durable enough to withstand the vibrations from bass, off-road travel, stiff suspension speed bump jolts and MOST IMPORTANTLY - in the unfortunate event of a crash or rollover, everything will maintain its attachment to the truck cab. Can't have 40 pounds of amps over head and 40 pounds behind your head that become projectile missiles!

 

This is the best way I could determine to anchor all the components for safety!!!! MUST be anchored into truck steel rather than wood. This is the MAJOR difference between why its taking months to build - rather than a shop, 'screwing' pieces together and sending you on your way! This MUST be structurally safe in case of a front end crash or other mishap!

 

[hrtbrk1 5,000+ posts]

wow!

 

[cmobley 10+ year member]

This build is sick. I wish I had 10% of that skill.

 

[LDW3RD 10+ year member]

^^^yeah, WOW!^^^

Big Dave must have crazy patience, that install looks very intricate.

 

[302yota 10+ year member]

what kind of wood is he using?

 

[Bender. 10+ year member]

this is ****ing insane. this is the best work i have EVER seen

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

what kind of wood is he using?

Feel free to PM him - he goes under CREATOR here on ca.com

this is ****ing insane. this is the best work i have EVER seen

Yeah. Not much more to say here.

 

[CREATOR 10+ year member]

what kind of wood is he using?

For THIS build, I'm using 3/4 spruce plywood (normal grade), need strength and light weight. For a sub box, I'd use MDF of course- but THIS sub box had to be light AND strong. MDF would just disintegrate trying to screw into the endgrain and the roughness of plywood gives the resin a better bite than the smooth surface of the MDF- which would just de-laminate the top layer of sawdust from the main material.

So- this box, is 3/4 ply, with matt & cloth fiberglass( MANY layers), inside AND outside. Then expanding foam between the outter wrap and the baffle boards- to prevent any 'reedvalve' oscillations. Then, glassed inside with 2x4's for support AND 2 layers of rubberized rocker guard to 'seal' the fiberglass and help to make airtight.

The 8x 12" subs weigh over 240 pounds - speakers alone! Total is just under 400lbs, so I wanted to make sure they wouldnt collapse when hitting a speedbump! So, the inside is braced vertical with 2x4's. This build has 6 gallons of resin and 5 gallons of bondo. 5- 4x8 foot sheets of 3/4 plywood and various thickness' of MDF for trims and amp pods etc. Over 200 sq ft of fiberglass cloth & matt. 45 sq ft of VB2 sound deadening. 50 pounds of steel in the skeleton cage & brackets.

A 1000 amp battery is under the hood and 2 yellow Top Optimas (one in each corner of the box), made this a tricky enclosure,( no place under the hood for 2 additional batteries and dont want anything in the truk bed).

Desinged the box with clearance to be able to pull the batts out in case of emergency, AND the subs are very deep with Triple stacked magnets, so wanted to be able to have full front seat front to back travel AND retain the recline ability. Set the subs as far back as possible- the magnets are only about 1/4 inch from the battery notches- but the subs are angled, so the pole piece vent isnt right tight against the wood surface. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[mrogowski 5,000+ posts]

Here's some shots of the DVD trim and screen:

A shot with the screen in

 

[Ellsworthz 10+ year member]

so sick.

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Such BS for one man to be so talented!

Grrrrrrr!

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Dave is strictly SQ, so nothing loud. For Dave it is all in the blending. He added the ports just for those folks who wish to hear a ported system.

Lol...

nG