It seems like a good deal... But I don't want to spend that much money... I'm trying to do a budget build lol meaning cheap as possible but effective lol.... I chose to go 12s because I've never ran anything more then a pair of 15s. 18s will create issues with length inside the hatch I think. Also not alot of 18s in the price range except for the Stereo Integrity ht18s and they are about sold out and idk if they will make them anymoreGreat price on that 21.
My goal is to just be happy, not win comps or be louder then any one in my town(lol there's a couple of 156-158ss that are teammates here). Ido compete every now and then but just for the hobby. I just want a decently loud daily. I would be happy with a 148 from it really. That to me seems doable with 4-12s(lower power say rated 5-600rms per sub) and 3kI understand where you are coming from. Starting a new buildMy self soon
Never mind I see. But that's more then I'm wanting to even save to spend
Poor performance, unreliable, and low resale value. A 120$ woofer isn't even worth the cost to repair if it breaks and barely worth the cost of return shipping if you can even get a warranty claim. That's just not the price point where you get into anything decent. I'd say 250$ is about the point where you buy something that'll perform well, hold value and actually be worth the cost/trouble of replacement parts if you break them or want to rebuild different size or coil configuration.Out of curiosity, why would I likely regret it? I'm not saying your wrong, but there probably 1000s of others doing the same thing I plan.
Hes obviously doing something wrong no offense. I did a 47.6 driver door open 1 18" in a blazer with about 1-1.5k. Also did a 45.8 sealed on the dash in a Santa fe, 1-18 on about 800-1k Iasca IDBL. The 47 was a hdc3 and the 45.8 was a lvl 4xl. Right now in the trunk I have 1 Hd15 on 3k not sealed off firing forward and do a 44.5 and this build is sh1tty all the way around.Poor performance, unreliable, and low resale value. A 120$ woofer isn't even worth the cost to repair if it breaks and barely worth the cost of return shipping if you can even get a warranty claim. That's just not the price point where you get into anything decent. I'd say 250$ is about the point where you buy something that'll perform well, hold value and actually be worth the cost/trouble of replacement parts if you break them or want to rebuild different size or coil configuration.
Plenty of people don't know the difference. Some guy up around here did a 4 15" wall on 5K with some cheap subs and he can't break 148.
Exactly my point. HDC3, DC XL, and AB HD are a big step up.Hes obviously doing something wrong no offense. I did a 47.6 driver door open 1 18" in a blazer with about 1-1.5k. Also did a 45.8 sealed on the dash in a Santa fe, 1-18 on about 800-1k Iasca IDBL. The 47 was a hdc3 and the 45.8 was a lvl 4xl. Right now in the trunk I have 1 Hd15 on 3k not sealed off firing forward and do a 44.5 and this build is sh1tty all the way around.
I've seen 55+ from Audiopipe subs(Donald Wilson), Rockville subs did a 54-55. It's majority install which I know that you know
I understand were your coming from, I really do.Exactly my point. HDC3, DC XL, and AB HD are a big step up.
Go buy Rockville or Audiopoop then and let us know how that pans out for you. All the audio company demo vans in the late 90's used subs that were probably more pathetic than those brands and enough of them got loud, but that doesn't make them good
To me the definition of a good sub/setup is one that makes the user happy what they can afford.(not saying im broke i just dont like spending money). I know wrong hobby right. I like spending as little as possible to see how good i can make it sound and how loud i can get it to meter. My most expensive build i have ever had was only 4-10ths louder then one of my cheap ones. I had a bit of money in that build and did a 148, but with WAY less power and WAY less money is actually within .4 from it.Exactly my point. HDC3, DC XL, and AB HD are a big step up.
Go buy Rockville or Audiopoop then and let us know how that pans out for you. All the audio company demo vans in the late 90's used subs that were probably more pathetic than those brands and enough of them got loud, but that doesn't make them good
How did the bandwidth and overall sound quality for daily differ though?To me the definition of a good sub/setup is one that makes the user happy what they can afford.(not saying im broke i just dont like spending money). I know wrong hobby right. I like spending as little as possible to see how good i can make it sound and how loud i can get it to meter. My most expensive build i have ever had was only 4-10ths louder then one of my cheap ones. I had a bit of money in that build and did a 148, but with WAY less power and WAY less money is actually within .4 from it.
The bandwidth to me is decent. My current build to me has had the best out of my builds. It plays down to 29 pretty good and plays up to 53hz well(depending on the song givin some songs have the same notes but sound alittle different). As far as meter i could be just getting really lucky with that. The numbers may not be loud to most but to me they have been very respectable.How did the bandwidth and overall sound quality for daily differ though?
If you can make a budget build that is impressive on the meter, and also has good bandwidth down low, props to you
yea im aware of the panels, mine were falling apart in my blazer smh. I would actually rather have the bravada though, same vehicle just the interior is nicer in them so id imagine it must be alittle better. I mean id do a explorer as long as its before the 2002 model of itIf you go with the 4.3 blazer platform that'd give you more options for an ho alt since the ls based v8 alts will fit that motor. Downside is the interiors tend to fall apart in these trucks