Featured Review my DIY Audio Upgrade Plan – 2019 5th gen RAM 1500 Crew Cab and help cut cost

[Car Audio Hooligan]

Hi all,

I'm planning a full DIY audio upgrade for my 2019 RAM 1500 Crew Cab (non-Alpine system with 8.4" Uconnect). I’ve done a full system once before in a sedan, so I have some experience, but not enough to be fully confident. I’m trying to keep the OEM head unit and would love feedback, cost-cutting ideas, and suggestions for improvements.

I mostly listen to electronic music, followed by hip hop, and occasionally rock and country.

1. Front Speakers – Components​

• Planning to run component speakers in the front doors.
• Considering 6.5" instead of 6x9 for better clarity and imaging – is this a good call?
• Is it worth using angled speaker spacers (possibly 3D printed) to direct mids toward the listener?
• Factory tweeters are in dash corners — should I relocate them to the A-pillars to avoid windshield reflections?

Speaker options:

• Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII (90W RMS) – $289
• Alpine R-S65C.2 (100W RMS) – $199

Amplifier for components:

• Precision Power i1000.4 – 4-Channel – $199
• front speaker
  
  
  
  
• twitter
• 

2. Head Unit / Signal Path​

• I’m keeping the OEM head unit.
• Built-in EQ is very limited.
• Considering a high-quality LOC instead of a full DSP (for budget reasons):
  • AudioControl LC7i (6-Channel LOC w/ AccuBASS) – $128
  • EQ
  • 
    
  • for some reason this truck still have CD player, is there anything better i could replace it for ?
  • 

3. Center Dash Speaker​

• My truck includes a 3.5" speaker in the center dash.
• Some suggest disconnecting it for better stereo imaging. Others say to upgrade it for improved passenger clarity. Thoughts?

Options I'm considering:

• Infinity REF-3022CFX – $65
• Audison Prima APX 4 – $249
• Center speaker
• 

4. Subwoofer Setup​

• Planning to install two 12” subwoofers under the rear seats.
• Previously used a sealed box with 2×IDQ10s, but it lacked punch.
• This time I want to build a ported box tuned around 32–34 Hz.
• Wiring plan: dual 4-ohm voice coils, wired in parallel for a final 1-ohm load.

Subwoofer options:

• CT Sounds Strato – $239
• IDQ12 V.4 – $280
• American Bass Elite – $209

Subwoofer amplifier:

• Precision Power ICE5000.1D – 5000W @ 1 ohm – $209

5. Subwoofer Enclosure​

• Planning to build a ported box myself using MDF – looking for blueprint recommendations.
• Not sure how much clearance is available under the rear seats.
• Might raise the rear seat slightly to gain depth.

Pre-fab options (pricey):

• Fox Acoustics Dual 12” Vented – $415
• eBay Custom Box – $399
• 
  

6. Sound Deadening​

• Used Dynamat Xtreme in a previous build (doors only).
• Now planning full treatment: doors, floor, rear wall, and possibly roof.

Deadening materials I'm considering:

• Siless 80 mil (2mm) – 36 sqft – $72
• Siless Liner 157 mil (4mm) – 36 sqft – $49

7. Power & Wiring​

Main power cable:

• InstallGear 1/0 AWG OFC Amplifier Wiring Kit – $66
  Includes 15 ft power wire + 300A ANL fuse

Distribution block:

• InstallGear 1/0 to 4 AWG Block – $7

ANL fuse holder:

• Joinfworld 300A ANL Inline Holder – $13

Remote turn-on wire:

• 18 AWG PVC Copper Wire, 33 ft – $12

Speaker wire:

• 12 AWG OFC – 50 ft – $36 – for subs
• 16 AWG – 50 ft – $10 – for components and center speaker

Ground wire (4 AWG, OFC, 11" with ring terminals):
XIOGZAXI 4 AWG Battery Ground Cable – $13

• Use this 4 AWG ground wire for both amps:
  • ICE5000.1D: 4 AWG to chassis,
  • i1000.4: 4 AWG to chassis,

8. Tools I Already Own​

• Multimeter
• Crimpers
• Wire cutters
• Ferrules
• Zip ties
• Velcro straps
• Heat shrink tubing
• Tessa tape
• Dielectric grease
• Deadening roller
• Panel popper tools
• Heat-resistant wire loom
• Wire loom clips

9. Other Questions / Considerations​

• Mounting location for amps — under front seats or rear wall?
• I have a 220A alternator. Should I still do the Big 3 upgrade?
  • Alternator to battery positive
  • Battery negative to chassis
  • Engine block to chassis
  • Using 1/0 AWG OFC wire

Thanks for reading and helping!

Click to read more...

 

[CarAudio.com - Hal AI Bots]

Hi all,

I'm planning a full DIY audio upgrade for my 2019 RAM 1500 Crew Cab (non-Alpine system with 8.4" Uconnect). I’ve done a full system once before in a sedan, so I have some experience, but not enough to be fully confident. I’m trying to keep the OEM head unit and would love feedback, cost-cutting ideas, and suggestions for improvements.

I mostly listen to electronic music, followed by hip hop, and occasionally rock and country.

1. Front Speakers – Components​

• Planning to run component speakers in the front doors.
• Considering 6.5" instead of 6x9 for better clarity and imaging – is this a good call?
• Is it worth using angled speaker spacers (possibly 3D printed) to direct mids toward the listener?
• Factory tweeters are in dash corners — should I relocate them to the A-pillars to avoid windshield reflections?

Speaker options:

• Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII (90W RMS) – $289
• Alpine R-S65C.2 (100W RMS) – $199

Amplifier for components:

• Precision Power i1000.4 – 4-Channel – $199
• front speaker
  View attachment 65378
  
• twitter
• View attachment 65380

2. Head Unit / Signal Path​

• I’m keeping the OEM head unit.
• Built-in EQ is very limited.
• Considering a high-quality LOC instead of a full DSP (for budget reasons):
  • AudioControl LC7i (6-Channel LOC w/ AccuBASS) – $128
  • EQ
  • View attachment 65373
    
  • for some reason this truck still have CD player, is there anything better i could replace it for ?
  • View attachment 65379

3. Center Dash Speaker​

• My truck includes a 3.5" speaker in the center dash.
• Some suggest disconnecting it for better stereo imaging. Others say to upgrade it for improved passenger clarity. Thoughts?

Options I'm considering:

• Infinity REF-3022CFX – $65
• Audison Prima APX 4 – $249
• Center speaker
• View attachment 65374

4. Subwoofer Setup​

• Planning to install two 12” subwoofers under the rear seats.
• Previously used a sealed box with 2×IDQ10s, but it lacked punch.
• This time I want to build a ported box tuned around 32–34 Hz.
• Wiring plan: dual 4-ohm voice coils, wired in parallel for a final 1-ohm load.

Subwoofer options:

• CT Sounds Strato – $239
• IDQ12 V.4 – $280
• American Bass Elite – $209

Subwoofer amplifier:

• Precision Power ICE5000.1D – 5000W @ 1 ohm – $209

5. Subwoofer Enclosure​

• Planning to build a ported box myself using MDF – looking for blueprint recommendations.
• Not sure how much clearance is available under the rear seats.
• Might raise the rear seat slightly to gain depth.

Pre-fab options (pricey):

• Fox Acoustics Dual 12” Vented – $415
• eBay Custom Box – $399
• View attachment 65375View attachment 65377

6. Sound Deadening​

• Used Dynamat Xtreme in a previous build (doors only).
• Now planning full treatment: doors, floor, rear wall, and possibly roof.

Deadening materials I'm considering:

• Siless 80 mil (2mm) – 36 sqft – $72
• Siless Liner 157 mil (4mm) – 36 sqft – $49

7. Power & Wiring​

Main power cable:

• InstallGear 1/0 AWG OFC Amplifier Wiring Kit – $66
  Includes 15 ft power wire + 300A ANL fuse

Distribution block:

• InstallGear 1/0 to 4 AWG Block – $7

ANL fuse holder:

• Joinfworld 300A ANL Inline Holder – $13

Remote turn-on wire:

• 18 AWG PVC Copper Wire, 33 ft – $12

Speaker wire:

• 12 AWG OFC – 50 ft – $36 – for subs
• 16 AWG – 50 ft – $10 – for components and center speaker

Ground wire (4 AWG, OFC, 11" with ring terminals):
XIOGZAXI 4 AWG Battery Ground Cable – $13

• Use this 4 AWG ground wire for both amps:
  • ICE5000.1D: 4 AWG to chassis,
  • i1000.4: 4 AWG to chassis,

8. Tools I Already Own​

• Multimeter
• Crimpers
• Wire cutters
• Ferrules
• Zip ties
• Velcro straps
• Heat shrink tubing
• Tessa tape
• Dielectric grease
• Deadening roller
• Panel popper tools
• Heat-resistant wire loom
• Wire loom clips

9. Other Questions / Considerations​

• Mounting location for amps — under front seats or rear wall?
• I have a 220A alternator. Should I still do the Big 3 upgrade?
  • Alternator to battery positive
  • Battery negative to chassis
  • Engine block to chassis
  • Using 1/0 AWG OFC wire

Thanks for reading and helping!

Sounds like you're planning a fantastic upgrade for your RAM 1500! Here are some insights and suggestions for your DIY audio project:

### 1. Front Speakers – Components
- **6.5" vs 6x9**: Going with 6.5" components is generally better for clarity and imaging, especially for electronic and hip hop genres.
- **Angled Speaker Spacers**: Using angled spacers can help direct sound towards the listener, which can enhance your listening experience—definitely consider it.
- **Relocating Tweeters**: Moving tweeters to the A-pillars can improve sound staging by minimizing reflections from the windshield, which is a good plan.

### Suggested Speakers
- **Morel Maximo Ultra 602 MKII**: Great choice for clarity, but consider your budget.
- **Alpine R-S65C.2**: More affordable and still provides excellent sound quality.

### Amplifier for Components
- **Precision Power i1000.4**: A solid option to power your components. Just ensure it matches the RMS ratings of your speakers.

### 6. Sound Deadening
- **Full Treatment**: Great idea! A comprehensive deadening treatment will reduce road noise and improve the overall sound quality.
- **Siless**: Both options you listed are cost-effective. The Siless Liner (157 mil) is thicker and can provide better results, but if you’re constrained on budget, the 80 mil can still be effective.

### 7. Power & Wiring
- **Main Power Cable**: The wiring kit looks good for your needs.
- **Distribution Block & ANL Fuse Holder**: Affordable choices that should serve you well.
- **Speaker Wire**: Using 12 AWG for subs and 16 AWG for components is appropriate. Make sure to maintain low resistance for better performance.

### 9. Other Questions / Considerations
- **Mounting Location for Amps**: Both locations have pros and cons. Under the front seats keeps the amps out of the way, while mounting in the rear can be easier for access and cable management.
- **Big 3 Upgrade**: Given your 220A alternator, considering the Big 3 upgrade is wise for improved electrical performance, especially if you're adding amplifiers.

### Additional Tips
- **Cable Management**: Ensure to bundle and secure your wiring neatly to avoid rattling or interference.
- **Power Ratings**: Always check that your amplifier’s RMS ratings are compatible with your speaker’s capabilities.
- **Testing**: Once installed, spend time tweaking the equalization settings for the best performance based on your preferred music genres.

Good luck with your upgrade! It's an exciting project, and it sounds like you're on the right track.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

One change I see. Buy the LC7i Pro.

Save $50 and buy the Stinger 4 channel

Stinger Audio MT-600.4 1000 Watt 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier

Upgrade your car audio today with the Stinger Audio MT-600.4! Shop the MT Series amplifiers for Class D circuitry, a compact design, and crossover multiplier.

stingersolutions.com

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Considering 6.5" instead of 6x9 for better clarity and imaging – is this a good call?

You pretty much got it all figured out. Reason one would choose 6.5s over 6x9s would be a much larger selection. I would opt for 6x9s just because I would get better midbass to blend with the sub stage. That of course will be offset by the door treatments you will be doing so 6.5s will work great in your case.
In my nephews Ram we got the signal from the wires going into the doors and straight into a simple electronic LOC. It has full spectrum and no hint of OEM EQ curves so it works good. We had to parallel load resistors for the UConnect would shut off the signal for lack of resistance in the lines. Only pro audio 6.5s were used along with the OEM tweeters which ran off the OEM head unit. For sub stage it was 2 Sundown SA10 classics in 0.5 cubic feet sealed per sub. Both amps are full bridge so mounting was not an issue since they are small. Small AGM secondary battery in the compartment by the rear passenger's feet.

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

Good upgrade. Keeping the module on the head unit may have a different affect. But nothing but try. Good luck. Let us know how long you'll take to finish this project.

 

[Car Audio Hooligan]

You pretty much got it all figured out. Reason one would choose 6.5s over 6x9s would be a much larger selection. I would opt for 6x9s just because I would get better midbass to blend with the sub stage. That of course will be offset by the door treatments you will be doing so 6.5s will work great in your case.
In my nephews Ram we got the signal from the wires going into the doors and straight into a simple electronic LOC. It has full spectrum and no hint of OEM EQ curves so it works good. We had to parallel load resistors for the UConnect would shut off the signal for lack of resistance in the lines. Only pro audio 6.5s were used along with the OEM tweeters which ran off the OEM head unit. For sub stage it was 2 Sundown SA10 classics in 0.5 cubic feet sealed per sub. Both amps are full bridge so mounting was not an issue since they are small. Small AGM secondary battery in the compartment by the rear passenger's feet.

I might actually follow your suggestion and go with 6x9s — I don't think my ear is trained enough to really notice the potential distortion compared to 6.5s. I used to have 6.5" Hertz components in my old sedan, and they were slightly lacking in mid-bass.

Do you have any suggestions for decent 6x9s?

The Sundown SA-10 Classic looks pretty beefy — but pricey too!

As for the secondary battery in the compartment — that’s a clever setup! Definitely a great spot for it.

 

[Car Audio Hooligan]

One change I see. Buy the LC7i Pro.

Save $50 and buy the Stinger 4 channel

Stinger Audio MT-600.4 1000 Watt 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier

Upgrade your car audio today with the Stinger Audio MT-600.4! Shop the MT Series amplifiers for Class D circuitry, a compact design, and crossover multiplier.

stingersolutions.com

Spec-wise, yours looks more impressive! I’ve never come across this brand before — is it in the same league quality-wise as the one I chose?

 

[Car Audio Hooligan]

Good upgrade. Keeping the module on the head unit may have a different affect. But nothing but try. Good luck. Let us know how long you'll take to finish this project.

Thanks! I still haven’t purchased all the hardware yet. Once I do, I plan to spend one day doing the sound treatment, another day wiring everything up and testing, and probably a third day just for cleanup. I'm not going to rush it since this is purely a fun project for me. I might even record it as a time-lapse — if I don’t forget, ha!

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Spec-wise, yours looks more impressive! I’ve never come across this brand before — is it in the same league quality-wise as the one I chose?

Yes Stinger Amps have been great for me. Quality has been great. It is my go to

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Do you have any suggestions for decent 6x9s?

I have not used 6x9s in a while but ones I have been eyeballing (I have nowhere to use them) are the Resilient Sounds ES-69c. Sensitivity- 92 decibels, 75w RMS, 50-10,000 Hz frequency range, and 3.5" mounting depth, no tweeter. Pretty desirable specifications IMO.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Do you have any suggestions for decent 6x9s?

CDT Audio HD-690CFX

CDT Audio CL-69S

You will have to add tweeter and crossover with the CL69S