Amp/Sub pair help

bulatz

CarAudio.com Newbie
Hello im trying hard to learn myself about this stuff but i just don't get audio numbers.

I have a Rockford fosgate punch p200.2 amp
it has a bridged power 200 x 1
i need to replace my 2 subwoofer speakers and i went to local car audio shop
they wanted to sell me 2 pheonix gold 12 rx2 speakers which are 12 inch 200w, was about $450-500 im trying to get something little cheaper perhaps and do it myself.
i cant find a 4 ohm 12 inch 200w speaker on crutchfield they are all 250-300w should i buy from a different place then or can i still get 250-300w speakers or is that to strong.
 
Just to tease:

Amazon product ASIN B0007XV5FY
$120

2 of these wired at 4ohms each:


$140

One of these at 4 ohms bridged - 370watts per channel:


$69

Total: 329 plus tax.

Some systems are out of reach, for others there's MasterCard!
 
Last edited:
What size is the box you have right now? You are worrying about the wrong thing. Speaker wattage ratings are relative. You are not going to find a decent sub that only TAKES 100 watts. The rating is there to guide you regarding the application you have and what the speaker is designed to withstand. Any 200 to5000-watt woofer can be driven by your RF amplifier. Efficiency is going to be the more important specification if you decide to keep that amp.
 
Last edited:
Hello im trying hard to learn myself about this stuff but i just don't get audio numbers.

I have a Rockford fosgate punch p200.2 amp
it has a bridged power 200 x 1
i need to replace my 2 subwoofer speakers and i went to local car audio shop
they wanted to sell me 2 pheonix gold 12 rx2 speakers which are 12 inch 200w, was about $450-500 im trying to get something little cheaper perhaps and do it myself.
i cant find a 4 ohm 12 inch 200w speaker on crutchfield they are all 250-300w should i buy from a different place then or can i still get 250-300w speakers or is that to strong.
I would contact Crutchfield support to get their suggestion. I would take a chance 250 -300 watts. Your amp can drive (100 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms)
 
Just to tease:

Amazon product ASIN B0007XV5FY
$120

2 of these wired at 4ohms each:


$140

One of these at 4 ohms bridged - 370watts per channel:


$69

Total: 329 plus tax.

Some systems are out of reach, for others there's MasterCard!
Thats pretty Dirt Cheap for a sub stage!! These subs are still available


The amp is used, but you still get a 1 yr warranty provided. I recently ran across this page as it popped up on my Ebay stuff/Alerts.



What vehicle do you have, or want this to go in? What Radio or HU do you have?? You may need an LOC? id put the RF amp on the front stage and get a component set


 
The problem as I see it is: You are trying to build a sub setup for the lowest wattage you can possibly find, all because you have an amp that's worth about $50 new. 200w x 1 is nothing. It's not enough power to drive any real sub. You can definitely find lower wattage subs that are in that range, I know kicker has some but why? That amp is not designed for a sub, it's just (technically) capable of a really, low powered one.

Do you want a sub or not? You're going to spend more to find one for that low wattage, then you could spend just finding a package deal.

If both of those settings you listed are RMS, then you can make it work, and your amp should give you most of what the sub can do. Even that small of a sub, you're going to leave some on the table.

Stop wasting your time with the 2ch amp if you want a subwoofer.
 
Last edited:
Hello im trying hard to learn myself about this stuff but i just don't get audio numbers.

I have a Rockford fosgate punch p200.2 amp
it has a bridged power 200 x 1
i need to replace my 2 subwoofer speakers and i went to local car audio shop
they wanted to sell me 2 pheonix gold 12 rx2 speakers which are 12 inch 200w, was about $450-500 im trying to get something little cheaper perhaps and do it myself.
i cant find a 4 ohm 12 inch 200w speaker on crutchfield they are all 250-300w should i buy from a different place then or can i still get 250-300w speakers or is that to strong.
There is really Vague information left on the Table here that could be very useful to determine just exactly what you are trying to accomplish? And what kind of real recommendations can be made for examples as followed;
1= What Vehicle- Year and Model?
2= Budget?
3= What Kind of Radio =Brand,and Model#
4= Stock Alternator,? How many Amps? A 110or 130? What type and size is your battery(CCA,CA,RES)? Lead or AGM?
5=What size enclosure do you have and what type? Ported or sealed? Pics would Help.
6= what Subwoofers do you have Now that need replacing? Make and Model #
There are several SVC4 ohm Subs out there. We could recommend several. Polk Audio has some really decent SVC4 ohm Subs. American Bass has some even.
7= Are you happy with running that type of sub stage? That Ohm Load and that kind of power?
8= Do you want a louder sub Stage?

Amazon product ASIN B01MTYBUOR


Amazon product ASIN B00TSUDOYM
Amazon product ASIN B07W1C6Z6D
Amazon product ASIN B00JDUIK8W
Amazon product ASIN B01MEH098I
There are Subs all over the Internet with a little time spent to search for your budget and for what will fit in your existing enclosure. You may even need to do a little cutting to get a new sub in or filing down? Subs All over the Place on the Internet
 
The problem as I see it is: You are trying to build a sub setup for the lowest wattage you can possibly find, all because you have an amp that's worth about $50 new. 200w x 1 is nothing. It's not enough power to drive any real sub. You can definitely find lower wattage subs that are in that range, I know kicker has some but why? That amp is not designed for a sub, it's just (technically) capable of a really, low powered one.

Do you want a sub or not? You're going to spend more to find one for that low wattage, then you could spend just finding a package deal.

If both of those settings you listed are RMS, then you can make it work, and your amp should give you most of what the sub can do. Even that small of a sub, you're going to leave some on the table.

Stop wasting your time with the 2ch amp if you want a subwoofer.
The problem as I see it is: You are trying to build a sub setup for the lowest wattage you can possibly find, all because you have an amp that's worth about $50 new. 200w x 1 is nothing. It's not enough power to drive any real sub. You can definitely find lower wattage subs that are in that range, I know kicker has some but why? That amp is not designed for a sub, it's just (technically) capable of a really, low powered one.

Do you want a sub or not? You're going to spend more to find one for that low wattage, then you could spend just finding a package deal.

If both of those settings you listed are RMS, then you can make it work, and your amp should give you most of what the sub can do. Even that small of a sub, you're going to leave some on the table.

Stop wasting your time with the 2ch amp if you want a subwoofer.
 
Makes sense I use the amp and sub cause I got it free and came with my first car lol I've had them like 15 years never had a problem it bumps good enough for me I guess maybe I'll just buy 2 new subs same kind of the one that blew out they only 75w Fosgate then maybe I'll get upgraded amp/subs later thanks for help
 
Don't mind the (affectionally known as) BASSHEAD zealots. That system that I recommended at $329 and some change will put out TONS of bass for daily driving pleasure, LOTS! That amp on sale for $69 puts out 370 watts of power bridged x2. That's the same as a 740 watt monoblock!

Run with it and then come back and share how awesome it sounds, I think that you'll be impressed!

Did something very similar for my grandson, he LOVES it! He's running a GM-D8601 to a dual 4 ohm, 12" NVX around the same price, wired to 2 ohms. He never comes close to pushing it all the way and that pioneer amp puts out 500 watts at 2ohms. After using the 2 12's you had and moving to that ported box (of which I matched to the performance of the 12's I suggested) would be surprised if you were not blown away at the difference.
 
Last edited:

I'd look at running one of these on that power
I've built several inexpensive HT subs around that driver and other GRS woofers, they are surprisingly well-made!
 
I've built several inexpensive HT subs around that driver and other GRS woofers, they are surprisingly well-made!
thanks for all these links its great. i think im gonna go with the GRS since they are so cheap and use them for just a lil while but damn now i want to upgrade my sub/amp i didnt realize what i had was so cheap and what not i been using them since highschool(12 years ago) a p200.2 amp/PL1-212 sub i thought they SLAPPED. they did their job good though lasted so long with no problems ever.
 
thanks for all these links its great. i think im gonna go with the GRS since they are so cheap and use them for just a lil while but damn now i want to upgrade my sub/amp i didnt realize what i had was so cheap and what not i been using them since highschool(12 years ago) a p200.2 amp/PL1-212 sub i thought they SLAPPED. they did their job good though lasted so long with no problems ever.
At least you know the possibilities are within reach. That RF is probably putting out close to 150 a side, but the little Black Brick is at 370 x 2, really nice deal. I've used the GRS, be careful,, it needs a pretty big ported box. Sealed it works great too.

Sealed Volume1.2ft³
Sealed F340.6Hz
Vented Volume2.63ft³
Vented F322.2Hz

I use the 1.2 Cu. Ft. sealed with 1 lb of Acusta-stuff, turned out pretty darn flat to about 38hz outside the car, measured close to 33 in the car.


in this:

Amazon product ASIN B000KFY2Z4
Done.
 
Makes sense I use the amp and sub cause I got it free and came with my first car lol I've had them like 15 years never had a problem it bumps good enough for me I guess maybe I'll just buy 2 new subs same kind of the one that blew out they only 75w Fosgate then maybe I'll get upgraded amp/subs later thanks for help
I still have some Old school stuff that I really enjoy to this day. I still swapp amps and other gear I have from time to time and run for a little bit at a time. Its a great hobby that Ive been able to enjoy for years. Nothing is better than Free. And something that has lasted over 15 years is quite impressive. Id still run/utilize the amp since you enjoy it and if its still working just fine.. There are several subs to chose from for the replacements. Search and Enjoy what you have man. Run what you got!! If you want to upgrade in the future? This is a pretty good site to ask about whats out there and what others are running that are reliable within the same budget! Id be interested of what you choose and how well everything sounds. You may even be happy with some Dayton Audio subs even ? Worth looking into with a 5 yr warranty on most that they have to offer
 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...

About this thread

bulatz

CarAudio.com Newbie
Thread starter
bulatz
Joined
Location
florida
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
17
Views
3,290
Last reply date
Last reply from
audiobaun
IMG_1882.jpeg

slater

    Oct 4, 2025
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot_20251004_120904_Photo Translator.jpg

1aespinoza

    Oct 4, 2025
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top