Alpine type r. Need suggestions!

[Blake439]

big number is peak never gonna see that just a wow factor for noobs... rms numbers are what u want/need

Okay so these are 1000 rms, seems pretty high (which is good) compared to others I've looked at. So run 2 with a amp with 2000 rms right? Not to difficult..

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Hello,
So I am still fairly new to subwoofers and amps. I had two MTX subs with a 1000w ems amp (don't remember the brand). They were stolen a few years back.

Anyways, I have a 2014 ford fusion now. Want to get subwoofers. I looked around and have decided on alpine. Thinking type r or x? Them the best two? A big difference? I still want to have trunk space for work. Not sure if I should get two 12" because that will take up a lot of room? I was thinking about just getting one 15 but it has a lower wattage and rms, I know that's not all that I should be looking at so anyone willing to explain a little and give a good suggestion please!?! I want them to be loud but don't want a chance of blowing them out to soon. I think I should be able to get a decent setup for around $700? Any help appreciated! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

P.s. want sound quality and them to hit super hard!

So you are going about this all wrong with your assumptions.. The sub's wattage rating does not make them louder it just means IT NEEDs that much power to get loud. No sense in buying american bass XFL subs unless you have 2x its rms in amplifier power. Yes that 1000 rms rating is a joke it handles way more than that. You might want louder power more efficient subs. What that means is subs that can get just as loud but on a lot less power. Efficiency is key here, not throwing gobs of power at subs. Again what does efficiency mean? Getting loud as fk with as little power as possible so you dont have to waste money upgrading an alt, batteries etc just to get the same level of loudness.

The main reason I wanted alpine was because I have read a lot of reviews saying they are some of the best subs and alpine is a good brand that I have heard of before.
I haven't done anything to my car, dont really want to ha e to upgrade to much because I know that will give me less fr the actual subs and amp, the $700 doesn't include box or wiring. I have more than $700 just I'm not looking to be a "pro" or anything, just trying to get a good starter system for now. I thought the same about 15, they seem to big with box for car trunks, so now to decide, I wish I could hear a bunch side by side so I know what I want! Haha

I have read of audioque before just not in that many posts and ive been looking around here and sundown seems to be decently popular... I am a carpenter to I know my way around and saw and adhesive a little more than the average newbie haha, I think I'll end up building my own.

But okay, so what kind do you guys think? I'm open to suggestions.

Also, I have the factory deck in my car, ill have to buy a LOC? Or do them not make that much of a difference?

Ohh, and I believe my alt on my car is 150 max amps. I googled it and I think that's what it is

you arent gonna get any results with a stock head units and LOC.... You arent gonna get any results with a stock head unit period. If you arent gonna change your stock head unit, then just give up on having subs completely. It makes a world of difference in how loud and good the bass sounds. Its not like one or two volume clicks, no its like you either have door speaker levels of bass with your subs with the stock head unit, or you actually get subwoofer holy sh*t bass with the aftermarket head unit.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Ok Blake 439. Don’t get the sub from that place you’ll regret it Could be old stick or a refurb. Either way no warranty from ab. Also I’ve heard these guys take forever to ship. If you want the xfl I can send you what you need for the amp. If your getting xfl subs. You need a 3k amp next question is. What are your Goals here ? And what have you done so far ?

 

[Blake439]

Well great, so much to think about and research to do still! Haha

Just want some good sounding subs that hit hard.. Nothing "pro" status, don't really want to upgrade my electrical components on my car (unless really minor).

I just got this car last week so I'm still in the researching stage of the process, haven't done anything.

Yeah that website was just to make sure I had the right sub, I would order on Amazon or eBay so I can get some kind of warranty with them.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Well great, so much to think about and research to do still! Haha
Just want some good sounding subs that hit hard.. Nothing "pro" status, don't really want to upgrade my electrical components on my car (unless really minor).

I just got this car last week so I'm still in the researching stage of the process, haven't done anything.

Yeah that website was just to make sure I had the right sub, I would order on Amazon or eBay so I can get some kind of warranty with them.

Again no eBay. Amazon isn’t much better. Because to subs would be sourced out. That’s why you buy from an authorized dealer the in-house warranty isn’t much good if you have an issue. But they don’t have or carry the subs anymore. Seen that happen to many of the guys here have bought theee exact subs from me just a FYI. But considering that you don’t wanna do any ungrads then maybe a lesser powered sub or 1 good sub might be a better option for you

 

[Blake439]

Dam, really? That's what other dude was saying too. Just don't think they will get enough power? They still wouldnt he louder than others until/if I do upgrade my alternator?

See I thought it was cheaper to buy on Amazon or ebay

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

For starters..You said TRUNK rather than HATCHBACK?LOUD and SQuality?Deff not going to get both with a TRUNK mounted sub without spending some money on some deadening/sealing and good enclosure and POWER to begin with.Esp. if you are not willing to spend any funds on your electrical needs and SUPPLY,starting with a decent HU.Sounds like you just want some Bass and thats it. One XFL 10, or 12 in a 2.0-2.6 cu ft rear fired sub and rear fired port in a built and tuned enclosure of approx 32-35 htz on approx 1k-1500 rms amp running at either 2 or 1 ohm at 1k-1500 rms will be plenty enough for that poor car(prob beat it to hell and back without any deadening) and deff not going get any SQ regardless from any stock truck space.You will still need to get that Big 3 done and more than likely need a good AGM battery to meet the demand/at a min.to keep from clipping as long as you set your gains right.One XFL 10 or 12 would be just fine if the enclosure is built properly and tuned right and power on tap

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I guarantee you a little sundown E 12 on 500 watts in a custom box with an upgraded battery will be WAY louder on an aftermarket head unit over two 15 xfl on 2000 watts on a stock head unit + line out converter with a pre built ported box. Its just how much difference a strong signal and proper box can make. Dont skimp out on either of those. Spend less on the sub, and spend more on the install and you'll achieve your goals.

 

[Blake439]

Okay, I think that's what I'm going to do since that's the census. Go ahead and upgrade the head unit (any suggestions? Does it make a difference? 2014 ford fusion) then build a good box, dimensions above (right around that), get one 12 sub (either xml or sundown, ill look into them) and a good amp (any suggestions on a amp? 1k-1500rms) then I will look into upgrading battery first then the alternator if I do want to upgrade to 2 12". Think that'll get me by for the meantime? Anything I missed?

Which is better for them two brands of subs, 1ohm or 2ohm?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Okay, I think that's what I'm going to do since that's the census. Go ahead and upgrade the head unit (any suggestions? Does it make a difference? 2014 ford fusion) then build a good box, dimensions above (right around that), get one 12 sub (either xml or sundown, ill look into them) and a good amp (any suggestions on a amp? 1k-1500rms) then I will look into upgrading battery first then the alternator if I do want to upgrade to 2 12". Think that'll get me by for the meantime? Anything I missed?
Which is better for them two brands of subs, 1ohm or 2ohm?

Our cars need a $400 dash kit. Just a FYI. Better off getting a Hertz H8 and keeping the stock HU

 

[Blake439]

Our cars need a $400 dash kit. Just a FYI. Better off getting a Hertz H8 and keeping the stock HU

Shiiit.... That is over $400 too! Why can't anything be easy! Haha something like this wouldn't work?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120995821S/Metra-99-5821-Dash-Kit-Silver.html?tp=3121&awkw=75645224425&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47715805225&awdv=m&awug=9019543

Does it work just as good as getting a new HU? isn't that just like a LOC?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Shiiit.... That is over $400 too! Why can't anything be easy! Haha something like this wouldn't work?
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120995821S/Metra-99-5821-Dash-Kit-Silver.html?tp=3121&awkw=75645224425&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=47715805225&awdv=m&awug=9019543

Does it work just as good as getting a new HU? isn't that just like a LOC?

That’s

It’s a full blown DSP. Stronger then any aftermarket Headunit. But not good for newbs. Not good for old farts stuck in the 80s either.

 

[Blake439]

Dam, that's ***** that ford did that.. Ugh, well they make a little cheaper dsp, or you get what you pay for?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Dam, that's ***** that ford did that.. Ugh, well they make a little cheaper dsp, or you get what you pay for?

Not a cheaper one that overrides the stock HU. And you want that.

You can start with a JL fix which gives a clean slate and add a DSP later. But it will end up costing more in the long run

Some people are happy just adding a Audiocontrol LC2 or higher to our cars. I wouldn’t be but I’m a perfectionist.

Do you have the Sony or just regular sync? If you have just sync then cross your fingers you didn’t get one with noise.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Dam, really? That's what other dude was saying too. Just don't think they will get enough power? They still wouldnt he louder than others until/if I do upgrade my alternator?
See I thought it was cheaper to buy on Amazon or ebay

yeah if u do more than 1k rms u need big 3 wires 0 ga all that (i'm in same boat big3 hard on my car).. get 1k @1ohm amp and 1 fu 750 12 $169 or 15, made in usa (unlike american bass) they can handle over 1200rms each (1 guy here just got 1 fu 15 doing 140db on music and sub ain't broke in yet and he has 4ga wire)