Alex's Silverado

For your four 7ks, you only need three 80 ah liths and one 40 ah under the hood and a couple cap banks. Apply for team JY and get a decent discount. Should shed a fk ton of weight doing so. four 80 ah if you plan on half ohming.
Of course I plan on wiring to .5 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/viking2.gif.35c13a457368016b956ccf693af31291.gif

 
Yeah I have no qualms about you swapping over to lith, probably the best thing you've ever done to protect your truck's engine from overwork. You'll even gain on the meter as well from a straight swap to pure lith. Can probably sell those lead acid batts for 80-100 each easy.

 
Yeah I have no qualms about you swapping over to lith, probably the best thing you've ever done to protect your truck's engine from overwork. You'll even gain on the meter as well from a straight swap to pure lith. Can probably sell those lead acid batts for 80-100 each easy.
Yeah, I'm going to list them $75 OBO and "cut deals on multiples"

 
I bought the batteries used from work, remember? They cost $180 each new, and I paid $50 each for them being 3-4 years old and float charged 24/7 by a software company. I could sell these for that easy on craigslist, which is what I plan to do. I have the money for lifepo, and now i've got a connection to hopefully get less than retail.
Two are conventional and two are hairpin wound. To send them in for new regs and get an external regulator isn't going to be super cheap, and I'd rather get all 350 amp alternators anyways so I can get the maximum out of my charging system.

I'm not changing alternators to gain on the meter. I'm fixing the problem to protect my battery and amp investment. The reason I go so overkill on electrical is that I don't want to damage $4,000 in amps. Do you understand that?

It's going to be L-brackets on the front face welded, tapped so I can bolt the baffle onto a smooth flat surface and just use a silicone-based caulk to seal. Each time, I can just unbolt the baffle and sand the caulk off.

I can't see the picture you posted. Image is broken.
Dude, 50+ pages here, little of which was actually build log. Caught that you had a literal ton of batteries, didn't catch the back story.

I was at the brink of going LIFEPO myself this winter but Xcess never called me back, and juice box wouldn't give me a straight answer via emails.

I'd be making whoever built those alternators make them work, but overall if money isn't an issue that's an all around solid plan. Do check with Excessive Amperage, Nathan has done me right every time.

eQuK5Ie.jpg


 
Dude, 50+ pages here, little of which was actually build log. Caught that you had a literal ton of batteries, didn't catch the back story.
I was at the brink of going LIFEPO myself this winter but Xcess never called me back, and juice box wouldn't give me a straight answer via emails.

I'd be making whoever built those alternators make them work, but overall if money isn't an issue that's an all around solid plan. Do check with Excessive Amperage, Nathan has done me right every time.

eQuK5Ie.jpg
Ok, well it seems like you're on every post I make here, so I figured you would have seen all the stuff I said about getting the batteries.

If Excessive and JY get back to me, I'll be making some purchases after I get the truck gutted and welded. Until I close on a house, I don't really have space here to store the lithiums, so I need to sell the AGM's first though.

 
Ok, well it seems like you're on every post I make here, so I figured you would have seen all the stuff I said about getting the batteries.
Nope. Check back through this thread, I haven't been around for much of it. I did predict a 50 page troll-fest back on page 2....guess I sold you short there.

Also, is that picture link working for you guys now?

 
Nope. Check back through this thread, I haven't been around for much of it. I did predict a 50 page troll-fest back on page 2....guess I sold you short there.
Also, is that picture link working for you guys now?
Lol, I might start a new log when I'm done gutting and start rebuilding. This one has over 79k views though, lol

Yep, pic works now. Looks like what Butler did with the DD Z's enclosure. I guess I could try that too when I get the back shell solid.

 
Lol, I might start a new log when I'm done gutting and start rebuilding. This one has over 79k views though, lol
Yep, pic works now. Looks like what Butler did with the DD Z's enclosure. I guess I could try that too when I get the back shell solid.
I do believe that's what Butler uses basically maximizing port area; everything except the subs is your port. The catch is cutting 100 MDF rings to stack until you like the tuning. You will waste a ton of wood out of a sheet.... I'd like to try it too.

 
Just bought three new 370 amp hairpins with triple output posts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Going to do 9 runs of positive wire back to the cap bank when I get them. Decided on caps, and I'm going to externally regulate my alts around 15.7-16v

My truck has been completely gutted for a few days, but I was waiting to make a youtube video until I had more footage.

Sales are pending on a few of my alternators, just waiting on finalization. Then I'm pulling the amps off the batteries. Going to sell 2 Soundrive subs to my uncle in Minnesota for $500, plus I'm going to throw in a crunch amp for free until he gets something bigger. Need to sell two more of the Soundrive subs and the batteries on craigslist, or I may list the subs here.

I plan on trying the two Wardens and 4 of the soundrive 15's when I get the steel cage done. We'll see which is better, and I'll sell whatever scores the lowest.

 
Just bought three new 370 amp hairpins with triple output posts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Going to do 9 runs of positive wire back to the cap bank when I get them. Decided on caps, and I'm going to externally regulate my alts around 15.7-16v

My truck has been completely gutted for a few days, but I was waiting to make a youtube video until I had more footage.

Sales are pending on a few of my alternators, just waiting on finalization. Then I'm pulling the amps off the batteries. Going to sell 2 Soundrive subs to my uncle in Minnesota for $500, plus I'm going to throw in a crunch amp for free until he gets something bigger. Need to sell two more of the Soundrive subs and the batteries on craigslist, or I may list the subs here.

I plan on trying the two Wardens and 4 of the soundrive 15's when I get the steel cage done. We'll see which is better, and I'll sell whatever scores the lowest.
From whom are you buying the alternators?

Why caps over lithium?

I'm betting all things equal Wardens are louder on the meter but the extra coils will make the 15's play louder longer. Either way if you build right (efficient) you shouldn't have an issue playing music painfully loud within the limits of your equipment.

 
From whom are you buying the alternators?
Why caps over lithium?

I'm betting all things equal Wardens are louder on the meter but the extra coils will make the 15's play louder longer. Either way if you build right (efficient) you shouldn't have an issue playing music painfully loud within the limits of your equipment.
GP audio hooked me up with a way better deal than the other companies I talked to, and he said they only have a 14 day build time! I've waited two or three months for other companies!

Caps over lithium because my amps are 16v stable. Cap banks are fine daily up to 16.2v. I plan to externally regulate the alts to around 15.7-16v. Or, I could just charge them at a standard 14.4v daily.

I'm making an easily swappable baffle, so I will meter both and see!

 
GP audio hooked me up with a way better deal than the other companies I talked to, and he said they only have a 14 day build time! I've waited two or three months for other companies!
Caps over lithium because my amps are 16v stable. Cap banks are fine daily up to 16.2v. I plan to externally regulate the alts to around 15.7-16v. Or, I could just charge them at a standard 14.4v daily.

I'm making an easily swappable baffle, so I will meter both and see!
Nobody builds 18V lithium?

Sounds like a good strategy but I'm still a big believer in large as you can battery reserve. Depending how you roll it may be plenty... not like you can't add a big battery or three down the road if you need though.

Dying to see how the removable baffle works, my best ideas I simply don't have access to the tools to pull off.

 
Nobody builds 18V lithium?
Sounds like a good strategy but I'm still a big believer in large as you can battery reserve. Depending how you roll it may be plenty... not like you can't add a big battery or three down the road if you need though.

Dying to see how the removable baffle works, my best ideas I simply don't have access to the tools to pull off.
As I am now, I'm way overkill on battery with the AGM's. If the cap bank isn't sufficient, I can either add more caps or add AGM's if I don't sell them all. I just want less weight in my daily driver. If I do sell all my AGM's, the owner of the shop I used to work at said he would sell me batteries at cost. I can just drive to his distributor and pick some up using the company rate.

Several companies make 16v lithiums that charge at 18v+, but my amps are only stable up to about 16.2v daily. I wouldn't be able to properly charge my batteries while maintaining a safe voltage for the amps. I was unable to find a company that makes 14v lithiums (that would charge around 16v).

Capacitors are in banks of 2.7v cells. 12v lithium car audio batteries are a bank of 4 cells. The 16v batteries are a bank of 5 cells. The cells they use are higher voltage than capacitor cells (and the internal cells of regular 12v car batteries). Because of this, they don't make 14v banks.

 
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