2014 Accord Sport SQ Build keep_hope_alive

[alexwoodby]

Very interesting, and thorough build, especially love your attention to baffling (word? soundproofing/absorbing)

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Very interesting, and thorough build, especially love your attention to baffling (word? soundproofing/absorbing)

Thanks, I consider my efforts to be primarily sound absorption.

Rich V.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

The swap to a newer, premium touch screen is mostly done. Not all of the harnesses match up so it took some effort to coordinate the pin-out. For example, harness "F" is needed and requires 12V constant and ground.

The whole point of the swap is to get a clean signal without DSP and HPF. Mission accomplished. The premium factory HU is made by Alpine and has a clean signal out of the HU (designed to feed an external amp which has DSP). At least Honda had one option that was reasonable.

 

---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 PM ----------

 



video of function of settings. ignore the hassle with screen visibility initially

 

[t0n3]

Awesome! Glad it all came together for you! Gotta feel good to tackle such an ambitious transplant project and succeed!

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[Majik]

Did you only use the adhesive ensolite to secure the MLV in place? I can't really tell because the top picture shows the MLV hanging there without it. Its been about 2 years since this post...how has it held up? What would you change on the doors, if anything?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Did you only use the adhesive ensolite to secure the MLV in place? I can't really tell because the top picture shows the MLV hanging there without it. Its been about 2 years since this post...how has it held up? What would you change on the doors, if anything?

I have 4 sheet metal screws holding the top of the MLV in place due to weight. Ensolite seals the edges.

Holding up perfect. Doors have a ton of midbass output, I have to turn midbass down in the EQ.

Rich V.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I've seen threads about buying the V6 brackets and trays to install a Group 24 battery in the 2.4L cars. I found that a Group 34 fits fine with generic trays and mounts, $5.

Stock battery (with electrical load additions)

Replacement battery with generic mount and tray

Stock removed

Tray replaced (was eventually bolted down)

Because this battery isn't reversed, I had to get the battery monitor connector on the other side, which is easily done by pulling it back in the loom and routing separately. New loom was added.

Stock mounting bolts are used for the aftermarket hold-down.

I previously replaced the stock power and starting cable ends with terminals. I also insulate the aftermarket positive mount with self-fusing silicone tape rated 1000V per layer.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

another night, another project.

finally time to ditch the MDF box and build a molded fiberglass enclosure in the rear corner.

previously

adding layers of 3M painters tape

outline mostly complete

two layers plus the enclosure outline in green

with the false floor installed. enclosure will allow for removal of the floor for spare tire access.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

The following evening included more taping, plastic, foil, and a lot of chopped mat and resin.

starting

note the pile of chopped mat

evenings progress

 

[t0n3]

Wow, that looks fantastic! I keep meaning to get around to glassing up my dash pocket area, but I have no experience with fiberglass... Maybe your posting will inspire me again. Thanks as always for sharing!

How did you decide which side of the trunk to use? I assume your top firing box sounded better than the previous wedge shaped one firing into the skipass?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Wow, that looks fantastic! I keep meaning to get around to glassing up my dash pocket area, but I have no experience with fiberglass... Maybe your posting will inspire me again. Thanks as always for sharing!
How did you decide which side of the trunk to use? I assume your top firing box sounded better than the previous wedge shaped one firing into the skipass?

Right side has my H800 processor otherwise I would have used it. Testing sub positions yielded nearly equal response in either corner.

Rich V.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I spent some time the past few evenings working more on the touchscreen HU swap. The backup camera didn't work because the premium unit has a wire trigger from the reverse relay. The base model must snag that data via CANbus.

Here is the research and execution of regaining that function:

Schematic showing the premium touchscreen HU reverse wire (through relay). HU receives a +12V switched signal when in reverse.

comparison of premium HU harness "G" (left) and Sport harness "G" (right). notice missing wires, especially bottom left G24

when searching for the reverse wire, i figured the DirectWire2.0 information (used for remote start install) would be handy, i was correct

Harness "D" has is in the main driver's side harness and Pin D38 has an orange wire used for reverse switched +12V.

here the wire is intercepted and soldered:

taped and secured

pin added to harness at HU

success

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

For proof that all of this effort is worth it, i'm also an IASCA competitor. I compete in Amateur class because it's the highest class for non-professionals. I could be in Novice or Rookie given this is my first year with IASCA but my experience doesn't lend itself to those categories.

A recent triple-point even netted me my highest score to date, and 4th highest in the US for 2016

Richard Vedvik

 

[t0n3]

Awesome! Congrats on the ranking!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Thanks. I'm lucky to have a good group of competitors in the midwest. you should come to an Indiana event some time.