2014 Accord Sport SQ Build keep_hope_alive


keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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May 1, 2007
7,421
195
Quad Cities, IL
Welcome, boys and girls, to another installment of KHA's build log. I've done several, and over the past 20 years I have learned a lot.

Starting with a new platform. A 2014 Accord Sport.

System will consist of the factory head unit (BT with Pandora and vehicle integration) that will feed an Alpine CDA-9887. The Imprint kit will be used with the HU.

An Audison LRx-5.1k will likely be the amp and will be ran active to the Hertz MLK-165 and a Hertz ML3000.

I will connect the factory HU output into a LOC with source equalization (like a JL Cleansweep or similar) and feed the 9887 AUX input.

The 9887 will act as a pre-amp in most situations. It will be interesting to see what I need to do to control noise.

The active noise cancelling mics (there are two) will be defeated using relays that also tie to the sub output. I want the ability to take advantage of noise cancelling when the music is low or off while driving clients and co-workers around.

Here are some pics of the car. I'm a huge fan of the cosmetics. I like the inside even more than the exterior.











I will pull the door panels soon to examine available space.

Step 1 will be to remove the interior panels and find a spot to hide the alarm system. A Viper 5706v is planned. Brain will not be under the dash in a standard location. I believe in security systems and hiding all components. You won't see pictures of this just as you didn't see pictures of the alarm in my 2001 Accord.

Step 2 will be to pull the door panels and build mounts for the Mille woofers. I need 3" for the Mille woofers. it will be tight. The tweeters will first be mounted using stock sail panel tweeter mounts from an EX sedan. $20 each.

Step 3 will be to build the mount for the 9887 in place of the silly pocket in the dash.

Step 4 will be to build the amp rack to mount the Audison LRx-5.1k. I have two locations planned, the preferred location is in place of the factory foam piece that holds the jack and spare tire accessories. I can build a mount that incorporates a hinged amp rack AND spare tire accessories.

Step 5 will be a sealed fiberglass enclosure in the trunk that holds the Mille sub. This enclosure will likely feature a locking quick release mount that will allow me to remove it for family trips. End result will be the ability to remove the sub enclosure and the trunk will be stock.

This will be built to compete in Stock class but maybe Modified if acoustical treatments push me into it.

I want T/A and independent level adjustment per channel and I want it adjustable from the dash. so it's either a processor or the plan above.

also, for competition, the 9887 is a CD source that is totally independent of the factory system. I can live with a reduction in SQ for daily listening but not critical listening.

another option is to add an optical output to the factory CD player and tie that into an optical input to a processor. but then I cannot use the volume control on the deck.



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
Premium Member
10+ year member
May 1, 2007
7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
time to open the door and see what i'm working with.









The black rubber covering is very thin. This will be quickly replaced (or covered) with Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) for improved noise isolation.

the factory 6.5" speaker has a plastic adapter that is 3/4" thick on the top and there is about 1/2" of thickness on the stock door panel where a thin plastic lip meets up with the speaker foam ring:







 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
the speaker opening has a mushroom shape because Honda thought using screws at three corners was time consuming. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif





this limits available diameter and explains why most sites (like Crutchfield) recommend a 5-1/4" speaker for the front. a shallow mount and/or neo-magnet 6.5" speaker would probably fit fine with a standard adapter.



the good news is that the window stops before it gets too far into the opening



but depth is nearly unlimited



the depth from the metal opening to the window (at the top of the opening) is 2".

5-1-2014

Placed an order and noticed the front door panels had a price of $0. i guess we'll see what they say... it's the entire door assembly. i suspect one of two things: 1. they charge me an assload for the door panels without my authorization and I have to hassle with a return or 2. they inform me they are not available for free. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

HondaPartsDeals.com

------------------------------------------------------

Order Number: 149423

Date Ordered: Friday 02 May, 2014

Products

------------------------------------------------------

1 x LINING ASSY., L. FR. DOOR *NH167L* () = $0.00

1 x LINING ASSY., R. FR. DOOR *NH167L* () = $0.00

20 x CLIP, DOOR LINING (APPLE GREEN) () = $3.60

1 x GARNISH ASSY., L. DOOR MIRROR *NH167L* (TWEETER) () = $19.97

1 x GARNISH ASSY., R. DOOR MIRROR *NH167L* (TWEETER) () = $19.97

1 x Touch Up Paint () = $7.69

Color Modern Steel Metallic (NH-797M)

------------------------------------------------------

Sub-Total: $51.23

UPS (Ground): $18.44

Handling Fee: $4.95

Total: $74.62

- - - Updated - - -

I've found this stuff to be cheap and effective:

Budget MLV and absorption at Home Depot

 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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May 1, 2007
7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
gear for install



got the EX sail panel tweeter mounts in from HondaPartsDeals.

with the factory tweeter rings the opening is 1-7/16". without the opening is oddly cut and around 1-7/8".

The ML28 tweeters can fit in a number of ways. From behind using the factory rings or in place of the factory rings using Hertz mounts.







 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
just like it was meant to be, the ML28 fit in the factory mounts perfectly. i was concerned the depth of the ML28 would be an issue but there is a good 1/8" clear - enough for CCF on the sail metal behind the tweeter. these things don't even need adhesive.











I like the gauges on this model, more than the other cars I test drove.



I eeked 40 mpg out of the car on the long trip the other day, range was up to 600 miles on a full tank. 37+ mpg hwy was consistent on the 850 mile drive.



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
Premium Member
10+ year member
May 1, 2007
7,421
195
Quad Cities, IL
pure ***













 

---------- Post added at 04:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:37 PM ----------

 

Been taking time to evaluate amp mounting locations. Because the amp uses the bottom and sides as the heat sink and uses active fan cooling, i am comfortable mounting the amp upside down. i will use a 1/4"-1/2" spacer to keep some airspace for the bottom.





the amp fits perfectly between the rear speakers. the rear speakers will remain and will remain connected to the factory radio. the HU fader will silence them for normal operation.

i will next cut a board that covers the rear deck. the first layer will have a cutout for the rear speaker magnets, then a shallow enclosure around them will allow for a surface for mounting/securing wires.





this is a cardboard template with the amp template paper.

 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
got rear speakers installed in the side seat bolsters. these will replace the rear deck speakers.



Dayton RS100











removing the covering was simple - it's like they were made for this





finished and the addition is invisible.



the only thing i could add to this is a metal grill on the surface - but i'm not worried about damage given their location. i'll have them wired up for my trip this evening and see what i think about them.

behind the bolster will be a lot of acoustic fill and some XTC foam baffles behind the speakers.

got both in and wired up. and by themselves for music only i don't like it. too muted from the lack of a tweeter and despite those speakers having a rated response to 20k, it's muted by the fabric and foam. i want a coax in there and had i remembered that i had MB Quart 4" coax i would have installed those instead. they would be perfect for rear fill though.

so i swapped out the Dayton's for MB Quart 4" and i'm much happier. the rear seats sound much nicer and from the front they still aren't noticeable. the factory system has the front much louder than the rear - someone at Honda understands audio systems.



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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7,421
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amp rack is 3/4" MDF because I wanted to add rigidity and density to the rear deck to counteract the drum head effect that the large, thin factory deck has.

i started with a basic shape then modified it as needed to fit in the rear deck



i decided i wanted sides on the rack to not only hide the equipment from trunk views but to provide mounting points for the beauty panel



the ultra caps posed a challenge because it choked the space for wiring and a fuse block



so i chose to offset them



the amp ground will connect at the cap ground (where two empty ring terminals are shown). a 1/0 ground will continue from the cap to a suitable location. 1/0 power wire (sized for voltage drop, not current) will connect at the fuse block. 4 awg will run to the amp. The fuse holder uses MAXI fuses, both will be 100A.



some test fits showed the trunk lid supports in conflict, so i had to do some trimming to clear them. i also painted the rack because i avoid bare wood. i haven't decided how i want to cover this. the beauty panel will match the factory colors with vinyl and will have windows for the amp, caps (with plexi), and fuses. i have 3/4" spacers for the amp that not only help with cooling but provide a path for speaker wires. security screws are used where necessary.

passenger side with rack mounted (viewed from inside cabin with rear seat down) - RCA's and speaker wires will be here.



driver side - power and ground will be here.



view from outside trunk



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

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Quad Cities, IL
started yesterday thinking i was going to "rush" the install to get the amp and Mille's installed for a road trip. then i realized i cannot half *** anything because i had to route the speaker wiring to my standards. ah well. interior is reinstalled and ready for a 4-day trip on a stock system. at least the speaker wiring is done.

the new Accords have a plug in the door boot but it is removable and there is room for wire to pass through. finally!



only a matter of minutes to pull wire. i have 12 awg for the woofers and 16-4 for tweeters and to snag stock front output.



same on passenger. inside the door the wiring is in split loom and tied to factory wiring every 4" or so.



passenger side routing





driver side routing





also took the time to foam these plastic pieces that help form the carpet. they press against metal and i imagine they will make noise in time.

driver's side before



both done



passenger side



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
4 hours of effort treating the passenger door. that's deadening, absorption, MLV barrier and CCF decoupler, and then terminating the speaker wires i had previously ran into the door. tomorrow i will repeat for the passenger door. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

the passenger door needed deadening, so a few sheets of BXT II did the trick.



then came the most important part of treating a door - adding absorption. this is a 1" thick compressed fiberglass ceiling tile (with the white cover removed). $6 per 2'x4' piece. this is easier to work with than the loose batt insulation and being compressed it offers more absorption with less hassle.







next came the barrier. the factory barrier is thin. i wanted to use MLV for the barrier but had the challenge of keeping water out. the factory setup has a slit where water can drain but it is flawed. so i added Ensolite (CCF( to the metal where the MLV will contact and also to the entire inside (one piece, sticky side out) to stick to the MLV and create a watertight barrier.







 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

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now for the MLK-165 speakers.

i had previously ran wiring into the doors.

16-4 has two conductors for factory speaker output (until i get the 9887 in) and the other two for tweeters. 12 awg for woofers.

i soldered the connections here





got it loomed and tied and protected



soldered leads onto the Mille woofer







For the doors, i didn't want to cut metal and change classes. So i decided to make the Scosche adapters work. while i normally default to thick MDF rings - i've found they efficiently transfer vibration to the doors. so i deadened the hell out of the opening, added the adapters, foamed and deadened them, and installed the Mille woofers.







 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

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the tweeter was previously mounted, just needed to be wired



i foamed those connectors so they would be quiet (no pic)





 
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keep_hope_alive

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drivers door done









The fiberglass absorption is Armstrong 404B, BTW.

CCF mounted to the inside of the panel for a moisture barrier (sticky side out will attach to the MLV)





wires soldered, loomed, and tied



both foam sheets installed - a bit tough reaching through the speaker opening to secure it





MLV added



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
Mille wired up



and mounted



and foamed





tweeter wired



and foamed



done



front



dash pics lit up



custom clock background



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
spent time with the family and didn't get as much done on Sunday, but did manage to get the Audison LRx5.1k mounted along with the ultracaps. working upside down is certainly adding a level of difficulty... good thing this is a big trunk that i fully fit in.

i have 1/2" nylon spacers between the amp and board and t-nuts in the board so the amp is quite rigid. security screws are used.



i covered the ends of the caps in CCF to lessen the chance of shorts. a plexi window in the beauty panel will reveal a section of the caps.





1/0 terminated into a reducer. it will be fused at 100A.





i use tie mounts on the board to hold wiring independent of connections





 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
got a wide 1/0 cable that needed 3/0 copper terminals that i flattened/crimped in a vice then dented with a ballpeen hammer then covered in heat shrink.





sanded the floor and used a Grade 8 bolt and nut.







terminated the ground at the ultracap then continued to the amp.







power and ground is 4awg on the amp rack and will be fused at 100A. a 100A fuse will be on the ultracap feed also and using a MAXI holder allows for a quick disconnect.

i did some measuring last night to look for a good ground. used 2 awg to get from the battery negative back to the trunk and included test lead resistance. my fluke measured 0.2-0.3 ohms. testing various grounding locations, including where i chose, i did not get a measurable difference of more than 0.1 ohms. given the tolerance of the meter, that's pretty good.

i've located the factory grounds and engine bonding jumpers. they will be upgraded soon.

next i will install the LOC and do some RTA and oscilloscope testing on the HU output to characterize it's frequency response through the LOC. remember, the end goal is for the CDA-9887 to feed the Audison and be a clean source while the factory system feeds the 9887 AUX input for general listening, BT, etc. testing will determine if i'll use the HU volume or the 9887 volume. i already have the PAC interface to use the steering wheel controls for the 9887 if need be, though my preference is to use the 9887 as a preamp and use the factory HU volume control. in the end, system noise will determine what path i end up on.

i'll likely have an iPod with lossless demo music stashed in the dash and connected to the 9887 directly. I also have the KTX-100EQ and will use it if need be.

 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

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7,421
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Quad Cities, IL
setup is as follows:

factory output direct from the HU into a David Navone 2 channel LOC. RCA from there into a SoundDevices USBpre ($600 preamp). A dedicated laptop running TrueRTA uses the USBpre as the input device. that is the purple line. Volume 30 of 40.

Observed clipping at Volume 33 through an oscilloscope.

the red line is direct from the factory output into the USBpre through a speaker wire to RCA adapter. Volume was reduced to 17 in order to closely match level of the RCA.



this kind of *****.

when i measured the output of the factory system using the factory speakers, thi sis what i measured with the Casella CEL-633C

measured in front of my face



i measured this 6" from the driver side woofer with the door open



 

---------- Post added at 04:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:44 PM ----------

 

the stock head unit testing has convinced me to put the 9887 in.

so i removed the pocket, cut it up, and am now prepping it

cover removed



mockup



cutting



putting the sleeve in





starting the fill process



empty dash



 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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Quad Cities, IL
spent a weekend working on adding the CDA-9887.

more work on the mount - some bondo fill





not sure i like this color and there are still some imperfections that i need to sand out



but i had to button the car up for a trip on Monday so this is where it is right now



these head units need some sort of trim ring but i suspect only three sides of the trim ring will actually fit. there is more work to be done but removing the deck isn't that difficult.

a lot of time was spent wiring new power distribution. i use a relay powered by the head unit 12V ignition feed to generate a new switched ignition source. i added a fuse block with separate outputs for the radar detector, GPS, PAC SWI-JACK, Navone LOC, and the 9887







 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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May 1, 2007
7,421
195
Quad Cities, IL
well boys and girls, we have power.

i'm still not happy with the HU mount. despite more sanding and fill there are still some imperfections. and i went with a satin black that is still too glossy for the dash. so i got a can of flat black for the next time i pull it out.



i modified the cover for the factory pocket to make a removable cover for the HU to make it look like stock when parked. the cover has a CCF backing and neo magnets glued to it behind foam. two more magnets inside the mount provide plenty of holding power.



amp is wired and powered.





the crossovers are left over from when the comps were powered from the deck. they can be removed and repackaged now.



did some scope testing with each output and also the AUX in from the factory output and LOC. no clipping at full volume on the Alpine (typical). HU output clips the Alpine AUX in at volume 21 out of 40 - overdrives the input. The stock deck clips at volume 33 of 40.



battery wiring for now





GPS and radar detector wires hidden





 
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keep_hope_alive

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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7,421
195
Quad Cities, IL
illumination looks pretty good





 

---------- Post added at 04:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:45 PM ----------

 



Revised the mount again, added material around the faceplate and went back to the metallic paint.

disconnected and reconnected the PAC SWI-JACK and it worked! must have been a loose connection at the harness. got it programmed and good to go.

 

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