$1500 + wasted??? need urgent help plz!

[audiofanaticz 10+ year member]

Ok, my buddy has bought a SPL Dynamic EXT-3000D mono amp. We finally hooked everything up today, and just got back from a short bump. About 25 seconds max bump. Sounded great for that lil while but that was it.

So now the amp turns on, the green light stays on for about 2 secounds before it kicks back into protect again. After looking at how it was hooked up from my friend I found the gain fully up, with the phaze at about 130, and the sub sonic filter at about 35-40.

Now the speakers are two Digital Design 3515s with dual 4 ohm coils which are bridged down to hopefully 2 ohms a sub, and both subs bridged into 1 on the amp. But Im not sure if any +'s and -'s got crossed inside the box because I didnt wire them. But both subs seemed to be hitting the same, or off beat. The amp was to be used for one 15 inch Digital Designs 9915, but it is getting reconed and hasnt been sent back yet.

The car is currently wired from the front battery too the rear with 0 guage wire, and 2 batterys in the back are connected together with all 0 guage, and I believe that 0 guage was used from the batterys to the amp also. Each battery in the trunk also have their seperate ground in the trunk that was grinded down to bare metal and bolted with a 1/2 inch bolt.

We where hoping to be bumping good for the Wisconsin Dells trip this morning (friday), and now the trip may not be going down.

Any help would be helpful

Thank you!

Brian

PS: below is a drawing on how it is all wired up from me looking at it. Hopefully it will help somewhat. Sorry Im no artist.

Click to read more...

 

[skoodles2006 10+ year member]

unhook all the subs and rca's and power it up to see if it still goes to protection.....if it does then i dunno what to tell you my amp did that but mine over heated really bad. pluss it was a cheap brand. but with out speakers and rca's shouldnt be a reason why it would go on protection unless osmething is wrong

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

After looking at how it was hooked up from my friend I found the gain fully up

BAD BAD BAD

 

[Patrick Simmons 10+ year member]

After looking at how it was hooked up from my friend I found the gain fully up

BAD BAD BAD

Very BAD, I would check all you wiring to just to make sure nothings touching to be on the safe side.

 

[davidfre21 5,000+ posts]

last time i checked a burp is normals ~3secs not 25 which makes it some what ok to have the gains high because the wont be going through the abuse that long. But 25secs, i bet u clipped that ***** into oblivion

 

[audiofanaticz 10+ year member]

Heh.. I didnt clip the amp. I didnt touch the amp except for disconnecting the speakers and rca's, and turning the gain down to 0. Its kinda funny as I think about it because i guess the audiobling held up longer and still works which was cranked at full gain for months before the spl. Same guy had messed with the gain on this amp too. You clearly know he knows nothing from how he sets all the subsonic filters, and phase, and other crap.

I said a max of 25 seconds. It may have been alot less. But I really dont remember. It wasnt that long of a time at all. And i was kinda stoned so im not totally sure on the time. but I didnt say that S word //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Whoever said disconnect the power, rca's and speakers. I did that right away after it went into protect and with the car sitting on a side of the road for 15 minutes it didnt come back to life at all once I gave it power.

All I did on the stereo job was installed the HU ran the power wire to the back along with the rca's and the remotes, installed and wired up new dash speakers, wired up new 6x9's, and some horns to a rockford amp, and put the interior back together.

I think its funny the tinyiest bit tho because I was told I couldnt touch the amp by the guy that put it in cause he was the all pro installer (becuase his dad owned a skating rink and he hooked up that and that club stereo is the same as a car stereo in his mind). So mr all pro just fried a amp.

Im just glad that the owner of the amp was there when the amp got hooked up by our friend so it cant come back on me.

But I kinda figured she is toasted so oh well I guess

Just one more thing? What was the amp running at for ohm's the way this was hooked up? Are the two +'s connected internally together along with the two -'s? and since the speakers that where wired to the amp using all four speaker connections would this of made the amp running the subs at 2 ohms per channel? instead of 1 ohm bridge. This amp is a class d monoblock, from what it says, and we all got into an arguement about this.

Another thing Im not that sure about is shouldnt the amp have been grounded to the car chassis, and not a battery in the rear which are grounded to the chassis, or would that not make a problom?

I'd like to thank everyone that said it had to do with the gain, because I am going to print this out and show mr all pro, and the owner that disagree with the gain.

Brian

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

Your diagram show both + and - coming from the SAME WIRES

Unhook the power and grounds to the amp immediately!

The amp has two inputs for + and two for - . Bring in 1 positive wire to the + and 1 neg.(ground) wire to the - . Turn the amp on and see what happens. If it clicks on, hook the other + wire to +(positive) and ground the other - as well.

 

[audiofanaticz 10+ year member]

All postivis and negitives are in their corresponding spots. Im no artist, so my drawings aint the best. the positves and negitives for the speaker wires are close together because one set goes to one speaker, and the other set goes to the other speaker. no wires are crossed what so ever from looking at it in the car.

The amp was completly disconeccted, then had power reconnected after about 15 minutes and turned on with only power, no rca's or speakers hooked up and still didnt work.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

you scared me with that drawing...those were speaker connections, okay.

Sounds like the amp is toast. I'm with the guys, when people say 'burp' stable, they mean only long enough for the SPL sensor to get a good reading.

 

[audiofanaticz 10+ year member]

Yes I do apologize for them illistrations. lol

I had an update at about midnight, and I was told the amp never powered back up in the morning after being totally disconnected overnight, and only having power connections made to it. So now the car is blinging again with the A2300HCT Audiobahn //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I guess its sounding louder now then before. oh well not the point.

Im still kinda wondering tho, if the subs where wired correctly to the spl dynamic. Any input from guys that ran these before? I noticed in the owners manual that if you are linking 2 spl dynamic ext=3000d's together that you connect the amps together using the negitive speaker connections, and run a positive from both amps to the sub, like so. But we are not linking amps, just for visual.



But how the subs where wired was like this.



Was this the correct way to wire the subs to the amp to put the amp on a 1 ohm load or not? I dont think its right. If you know please draw it out the same as i did. here is a clean picture to do it with.



Hopefully these are a bit more understandable. If you know the correct way to wire this amp, since it doesnt say on the amp, amp manual, or the amp site please do it. I just used http://imageshack.us/index.php to host the pictures, and its a free site and you dont have to make an account or anything.

Thanks

Brian

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

first image(setup) is called 'strapping' only possible if manf. says it can be done.

when mono amps have 2 sets of speaker connections they are available as an 'ease of use' for the end user, wired parallel internally.

So, a d4 sub wired in parallel will give a 2 ohm load.



TWO 2 ohm loads in parallel gives a 1 ohm load. Your amp was seeing a 1 ohm load.

That's why I was thinking your electrical system didn't keep up and might not have been able to sustain voltage to the amp.

here's my crappy pic.

 

[audiofanaticz 10+ year member]

ok, yes, the amp is capable of straping together with another but its not the case. just used it as a visual.

So then the way the subs where hooked to it where correct and the amp was running at a 1 ohm load with both subs connected to it. because both subs are 4 ohm dvc. So that would mean that the positives are connected together internally along with the negitives being connected together internally. I just wasnt sure if they where like the US Amps or not. I just figured that since it was a competition amp like the us amps are that you have the extra outputs for when your running 10 guage speaker wire, so you dont got to try and cram 2 big wires in one tiny hole.

I was just still iffy on that part alone and just wanted to be sure, so I can tell my friend that was not one of the reasons the amp became toast, so that leaves the only error with mr allpro and full gain...

Sorry for me sounding like a noob, but none of us really messed around with forgien crap like this.. Ill be sticking with my 4000x us amps over these spls for sure.

PS: funny thing is mr all pro has a knick name called knobie because he loves his gains up all the way, and when my buddy got the audiobahn a2300's he wouldnt leave the lil bass knob alone, and that had to be cranked along with the amp gains.

I still think its funny how the audio bling amp can run for over a hour at the same load with almost the same setup and not cut out, but now for the spl dynamics it cant even hang for 25 seconds, and the spl dynamic ext-300d was three times as much...

Oh well. Thanks for all the input and help, I'll be printing this out for proof of how the amp fried most likely so mr all pro can see that the wonderful gain should not always be cranked.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

gains are there to account for input voltage difference. They are not volume knobs.

Example if the amp input sensitivity is .2v - 6v., and you have an 8v output HU, gains need to be all the way down for sure.

There are tutorials around about how to set gains. IMO gains should NEVER be all the way up. Depending on input voltage range, sometimes all the way DOWN is necessary. BASS KNOBS are generally a no-no as well.

Good luck with your setup. BTW these are comments, opinions and suggestions, not fact. We haven't SEEN your equipment to properly diagnose your problem.

 

[btnhfan 5,000+ posts]

I said it on the other forum

Set gains correctly.

Also that amp needs a good elec

 

[btnhfan 5,000+ posts]

And also...

You should be able to get the vfl 200.1 for under 1500, around 1200 or less.

The exact same amp